how much do you think i will get for a trade in on my car

29,300 miles '03 touring 6mt with navi and all the options with extended warranty (paid around 36-37k for it)

color black ext burnt orange int

kbb says 20,650 for trade in

is this what i will be hearing or can i ask for more.

 

Sounds about right for trade-in, compare it with www.nada.com

 

depends on the dealer and who your talking to.....and if they go by KBB wholesale(good condition), depends on what they would deduct for re-conditioning fee. If the Z is in excellent and more or less stock condition, it wouldn't be too hard selling it on your own. Good luck.

 

we just took in a trade the other day, 2006 Base model with 6,000 miles, for $23,000...

I was really tempted to trade mine in, but egh....

 

$20K, I was offered $18 and with lesser miles same options as you with navi but blk leather. Either way $20K isen't enough, keep the Z

 

Numbers in KBB are based on trade-ins in your area. Often the numbers are inflated because dealers will be liberal with a trade-in, then kill buyers on the new car price.

That said, negotiate trade-in first. Some dealers such as CarMax will give you a written guarantee good for 90 days.

 

--thats rough, dealers suck. If my new trans is nice ill probably keep it.

 

i'd replace the tranny and keep it if i was you.....

 

correction...SEVEN days...if you ever try to appraise your car on KBB, currently their numbers are pretty close tot ACV of the vehicle....when you select the options on KBB, don't click any extra add-ons onto your car if the screen didn't automatically do so already, meaning, "optional upgrades" don't really add true values to the vehicle...and remember, no car is in "EXCELLENT" condition....KBB has a +-500 leg right now in the Houston car market...

 

You'll be lucky to get $17.5k on that... dealers=beasts.
However, if you lived by me, and would've went down to like $19k, i would've taken it off your hands about a month ago. ;P

 

dealer will put it back on the lot and sell it for at least 25k$. Believe me, they will sell it at that price.

 

i have a friend that just traded his g35c for s2000.

he got $25k for his g35c with 15k miles. i think he bought it 2004 for $32k.

he got his new s2k for $30,xyz.

good deal? --i think so

seems like the g35c holds its value better than 350z

 

They do the G35 has been rated as one of the top cars that hold it value well by several sources.

 

yeah i dont see you getting as much as its really worth if you include a dealership at all. best way to do is private party sell. i bought a Z almost exactly as yours is right now (same year, model, nav, miles, etc.) it had leather and everything for $22,800 from a delaership so i highly doubt that would even give you 20k for it because they are looking for a good profit. sell it private and you can probably get 24k-25k. needless to say the $22,800 was a very good deal IMO.

 

I second the carmax dealership. Ive sold 2 cars to them in the past and both times ive come out with alot more than i thought i would get. KBB on my 2000 wrangler was only 5500. They gave me 7500 and that was with a front transfer case about to go out. My other was a beater of a ford explorer... the thing was a piece of sh*t. they gave me 3200. I was only looking for 1500 tops. When i got my 03 touring a few months back i payed 21k. Drove it straight to carmax where i was offered 24.5k.

 

Hmmm, I used to sell cars and I would say, negotiate PRICE first. The trick is, DO NOT MENTION THAT YOU HAVE A TRADE IN. I use this tactic every time I buy a car.

Car dealers make money on the "triangle"

New Car
/ \
TradeIn-------Finance

So you have to approach each of these individually.

First start with the new car, then the trade in, then the interest rate.

I also would fight some of the "doc fees" but they usually won't budge on those, though I've walked out over them before!

Here is what I do:

1. Negotiate price of the car you want to buy.

When asked if you have a trade in say no, this is a straight purchase. I usually print invoice pricing and other cost at the library (or home) and take with me to aid in my negotiating. One time, I asked a guy "can I look at your NADA guide" He told me, no we don't have one. I replied "good think I made copies at the library then!" They key is to get them off their game. They are taught in sales training to "controll" the customer.

2. After you have negotiated the price of the car that you want to buy, THEN you say something like..." you know what, I've been thinking, why don't you tell me how much you will give me for my car, car x (your trade in)". The reason I do this is because after you have negotiated a price to buy the new car for in step one, the salesman in his/her mind is already spending your money that he/she is going to make in commision. So, they are not going to want to blow the deal now.

3. After you have those out of the way, next you should negotiate the interest rate. You have to do your homework and be prepared. I always call my bank/credit union/ other source of financing first. So, let say I ,know that I can get 6% from my bank. WHen I get into finance I listen to what they have to say, then when they hit me with 12%, I laugh, tell them I am insulted and tell them I will finance at my bank for 6% and if they can beat that I will finance with them.

I hope this helps some, Its not detailed or complete but it should give you an idea of the car selling game.

Sorry if it was off topic too, I just felt compelled to write it!

Macka

 

Also never talk about payment plan the lower the price of the car the lower that car payment. Some people just tell the dealer what kind of payment they are looking for and they will work the number to get them even if they could get you lower price.

 

yup, good point...you NEVER negotiate payment. Always negotiate PRICE. This means you have to do your homework so that you know what you are going to pay. A rule of thumb (at least in Texas) is figure about $25 in monthly payment for ever $1000 that you finance. Again this is a ROUGH estament.

Again, good point Zcarboy!

 

1. Negotiate the drive-away price for the car.
2. Include options and addins (prep. fees and doc. cost) in your negotiations.
- Dealers can deal on everything. Get final total including everything
you want. Then try to get a discount on the total price.
3. Include your trade-in.
4. Get your own financing deal (try a credit union).
5. You can ask dealer if he can beat the financing deal you have.
6. Finance the final car price amount minus any cash down payment you want to use.

Never tell the dealer about any cash you’re going put down if you have a trade-in. There is no law that says he has to give you KBB or NADA for your car. Most dealers I have used have given me more than book on my trade-in when they think it's all I have going into the new car. Telling him you have a cash down payment just gives him another pot of money (your trade-in is the first pot) to juggle around and maximize his profit.

Do your homework on the value of your old car, the car you want to buy, and the financing costs before you talk to a dealer. Good Luck!

 

I just went through an Audi dealership for a trade in value on my car. I also have a 2003 Touring with all options including Nav, External DVD Player, F&S Air bags, etc.. and they offered me 21,500 for my car, but I also have 35000 miles on my car. Therefore, you are definitely getting a low end of the trade in value for your car considering you have less miles.

With all this said, you can get way more than the maximum any dealer will give you for your trade in from a private party buyer. I know its a bit of a hassle showing the car and taking em on test drives and what not, but its well worth it. For me, I never let anybody drive the car until I know they're serious about purchasing my car. So all in all, take a few days/weeks and find a private buyer and get the most bang for your buck.