put 350z in four jack stands
you need two floor jacks, and four stands,
1st raise the front from both sides if its only you, you'll have to go from side to side to keep it even.
2nd after the front is on jack stands do the same for the rear and repeat steps in reverse order to lower car.
1st raise the front from both sides if its only you, you'll have to go from side to side to keep it even.
2nd after the front is on jack stands do the same for the rear and repeat steps in reverse order to lower car.
Originally Posted by disturbed2483
you need two floor jacks, and four stands,
1st raise the front from both sides if its only you, you'll have to go from side to side to keep it even.
2nd after the front is on jack stands do the same for the rear and repeat steps in reverse order to lower car.
1st raise the front from both sides if its only you, you'll have to go from side to side to keep it even.
2nd after the front is on jack stands do the same for the rear and repeat steps in reverse order to lower car.
friends would be a good idea?!
Just do a few revolutions at 15 revolutions per half a minute, stop, then repeat procedure
I've had mine up on 4 stands and it was no sweat. All you need is the stands and one floor jack. The Z has garage jack points noted in the manual (there are diagrams showing them areound here somewhere). The front one is just in front of the front cross-member, behind the oil pan a bit; it's a circular area right between the two cross-member bolts. The rear point is by jacking up the rear diff. I used a piece of wood as cusion at both ends, lifted the front first and got it on stands (low setting), then the rear. If you need to raise it higher and the jack has the height, just bump each end up a little at a time to keep it stable.
i'd do it the same way i changed my bumper... with to large sized ramps... wasn't entirely necessary to change a bumper but it did make it a lot easier...
my ramps go up to a foot and a half off the ground... and IMO is a safer way as opposed to having a 3500Lb car floating above you on 4 half inch metal pins... so i wouldn't rule out the option of using just some sturdy materials to back up your car on to lift the rear...
majority of your work is going to take place more towards the rear anyway... if i'm not mistaken... so it would kind of be senseless to lift the whole car...
my ramps go up to a foot and a half off the ground... and IMO is a safer way as opposed to having a 3500Lb car floating above you on 4 half inch metal pins... so i wouldn't rule out the option of using just some sturdy materials to back up your car on to lift the rear...
majority of your work is going to take place more towards the rear anyway... if i'm not mistaken... so it would kind of be senseless to lift the whole car...
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Originally Posted by genxnympho
I have used these as a guide to give you an idea, I saved them from somewhere here on the forum. Once you look under the car it will make more sense.
Chishi
Originally Posted by ken350z
The local mechanic charged me about $50 to use his lift and he helped with the exhaust.
u might as well have do all the work for $50. I paid my nissan dealership $60 jus to install my nismo exhaust.
i recently built my own ramps out of wood to get my lowered Z elevated 4inches off the ground. This helps when trying to get a floor jack underneath. I usually raise the rear by the pumpkin with a large jack. The front I place on stands, that are placed under the lower control arms. Works like a charm. (The lower control arms do not sit well on the yellow/blk Craftsman stands. I use smaller grey/blue AC Delco stands)
when i installed my nismo exhaust, i used ramps for the rear and used jackstands for the front. when jacking up the car i lifted one side so i could get the jack underneath, then did the same for the other side. after they were both on jacks, i went and lifted one side higher then went to the opposite side and to make it the same height, then i did it again until it was the same height as the ramps. imo it felt safer than jacking up one side all the way up all at one time.


Here's how I got my car on 4 jack stands. (a little tough because it is lowered almost 1")
1. I went to the hardware store and bought some sheets of plywood. I had the guy cut them to my specs and spent 10 minutes nailing them together.
Here is what my ramps looks like:

These ramps eliminated the need to use the stock jack to lift up a corner, VERY nice indeed
2. I jacked up the front of the car using this low profile jack from harbor freight. It was the lowest jack I could find and it has a VERY nice high lift. It is a real beast.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91788
I am lowered on hotchkis springs and this jack is still low enough to get to the rear differential jacking point easily, but the front end needs a little help, hence the ramps.
3. Put the front of the car on jack stands
4. Jacked up from the rear diff.
5. Put the rear of the car on jack stands.
Done!
The ramps I built are a lifesaver.
As for jack stands, avoid this type because the U-shaped part at the top is too steep and may puncture the foam underspray underneath the car.

I bought this type also from harbor freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91760 )

You can see the U-shaped part is NOT as steep which makes these a better choice for our cars.
1. I went to the hardware store and bought some sheets of plywood. I had the guy cut them to my specs and spent 10 minutes nailing them together.
Here is what my ramps looks like:

These ramps eliminated the need to use the stock jack to lift up a corner, VERY nice indeed

2. I jacked up the front of the car using this low profile jack from harbor freight. It was the lowest jack I could find and it has a VERY nice high lift. It is a real beast.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91788
I am lowered on hotchkis springs and this jack is still low enough to get to the rear differential jacking point easily, but the front end needs a little help, hence the ramps.
3. Put the front of the car on jack stands
4. Jacked up from the rear diff.
5. Put the rear of the car on jack stands.
Done!
The ramps I built are a lifesaver.
As for jack stands, avoid this type because the U-shaped part at the top is too steep and may puncture the foam underspray underneath the car.

I bought this type also from harbor freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91760 )

You can see the U-shaped part is NOT as steep which makes these a better choice for our cars.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; Sep 12, 2006 at 01:57 PM.
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
As for jack stands, avoid this type because the U-shaped part at the top is too steep and may puncture the foam underspray underneath the car.


Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I bought this type also from harbor freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91760 )

You can see the U-shaped part is NOT as steep which makes these a better choice for our cars.

You can see the U-shaped part is NOT as steep which makes these a better choice for our cars.
^^^using those as I change my oil right now!
But you dont necessarily need to lift the whole car off the ground. If you have a friend it will help out with the install. I did the whole install of the Hks by keeping the rear on jackstands and working from the ypipe to the muffler.
But you dont necessarily need to lift the whole car off the ground. If you have a friend it will help out with the install. I did the whole install of the Hks by keeping the rear on jackstands and working from the ypipe to the muffler.
Originally Posted by racinzrookie
^^^using those as I change my oil right now!
But you dont necessarily need to lift the whole car off the ground. If you have a friend it will help out with the install. I did the whole install of the Hks by keeping the rear on jackstands and working from the ypipe to the muffler.
But you dont necessarily need to lift the whole car off the ground. If you have a friend it will help out with the install. I did the whole install of the Hks by keeping the rear on jackstands and working from the ypipe to the muffler.
Yeah you're right. I had to lift all 4 corners evenly to do the trans and diff oil change though.
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