why does the z buck when shifting?
#25
Take a look at this thread. It seems to have helped a lot of people:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/128253-high-clutch-want-to-lower-your-clutch-engagement-point.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/128253-high-clutch-want-to-lower-your-clutch-engagement-point.html
#27
Originally Posted by Xx SiFaKa
I get this to. I hate it! It makes me feel like the car is piece of crap! I hate little things like that. That's just because I'm so damn picky
P.S. I don't think the Z is a Piece Of Crap. I'm sorry I said that about you Z!
P.S. I don't think the Z is a Piece Of Crap. I'm sorry I said that about you Z!
#28
Originally Posted by mario60185
YOu guys need to practice your shifting technique....sorry but its true, I can take you out in any gear and any rpm, full throttle or no throttle and show you how to shift it with no "buck".
thats what i was going to say. Is all you, you can make any car "buck" it bucks because you are not giving it enough gas, or you might be lettering go of the cluch to fast. either one, you have to make a smooth transaction! some people like it, but it will not give you 100% power when you do this. that "buck" will slow you down. simple answer, press the gas a little harder! want to power shifh , the car should shoot forward if you did have this problem and now press the gas harder.
#29
+1
Also, bucking is hard on the rest of the drive train. With some practice you can get to the point where your upshift and down shifts wont even be noticeable by the passenger with just a poke at the pedal.
Keep in mind, this is a close ratio box, it expects a fairly small difference in revs compared to an econo box. That is what the close ratio part is all about, keeping you in the meat of the power curve as much as possible.
Chris
Also, bucking is hard on the rest of the drive train. With some practice you can get to the point where your upshift and down shifts wont even be noticeable by the passenger with just a poke at the pedal.
Keep in mind, this is a close ratio box, it expects a fairly small difference in revs compared to an econo box. That is what the close ratio part is all about, keeping you in the meat of the power curve as much as possible.
Chris
#30
Sorry, I didn't read all the posts, but here is advice for the original poster. It sounds like exactly like you are leaving Traction Control ON while trying to accelerate quickly from a stop. There is nothing more frustrating to me than the way TC feels when you're trying to go fast. Hit that little button in front of your left knee. Look for the "TCS OFF" on display, then punch it. No more problems.
#32
I don't need to turn off TCS, but I do notice it affects WOT acceleration. It feels like accelerating from 2nd gear.
Anyhow, just keep gas pedal down a tiny bit when shifting instead of letting it go completely.
Anyhow, just keep gas pedal down a tiny bit when shifting instead of letting it go completely.
#34
coming from an original 03 owner I have had a lot of experience in driving the Z. Although I am able to drive the car completely without any bucks or thumps, it did take me a whole 2 years of driving around 30k miles to get where I am. In matter of fact I still think my driving can still be improved. But the reality is the problem with unsmooth shifts is due to user error. So if you have the problem you should try to change your driving style.
Furthermore, some people here are claiming that by not smoothing the shifts it that it is actually helping to preserve clutch wear. While that seems like a valid point I cannot imagine that having a thump coming from the drive train between every shift is any better than wearing the clutch out a little faster. Anyways clutches are made to be used, and its not like you need to ride the clutch to get smooth shifts.
Furthermore, some people here are claiming that by not smoothing the shifts it that it is actually helping to preserve clutch wear. While that seems like a valid point I cannot imagine that having a thump coming from the drive train between every shift is any better than wearing the clutch out a little faster. Anyways clutches are made to be used, and its not like you need to ride the clutch to get smooth shifts.
#36
Originally Posted by efx
how can we tell if our clutch is going to "burn out". Is there a way we can check to see the life of the clutch?
#37
Originally Posted by Built2shredZ
If your frying your clutch badly you will smell it...
besides the clutch smell... how can we tell how much life is left on the clutch. At HIN.. you had to go up this really steep hill to get to the parking garage. I burned the sh1za out of my clutch, I don't know how bad I did it though.
#38
A smooth transition between gears is just a matter of driver technique, and comes with experience.
1) The left foot should disengage the clutch at the same time the right lifts to allow the engine to decel. 2) Then then the left foot should release the clutch to the friction point while the right foot is applying just enough throttle to bring the power up to match the new gear.
This will give the smoothest shift, with the minimum wear and tear on the clutch.
bill
1) The left foot should disengage the clutch at the same time the right lifts to allow the engine to decel. 2) Then then the left foot should release the clutch to the friction point while the right foot is applying just enough throttle to bring the power up to match the new gear.
This will give the smoothest shift, with the minimum wear and tear on the clutch.
bill
#40
I would imagine you would have to take it apart and take a look at the clutch..
Another sign the clutch is wearing out is slippage, if your car is reving but your not going anywhere fast then your clutch is slipping from being worn out....
Another sign the clutch is wearing out is slippage, if your car is reving but your not going anywhere fast then your clutch is slipping from being worn out....