i havent seen any posts on this...but is it better to use an oil like Mobil 1's full synthetic or use some kind of conventional oil in the VQ Revup? someone told me to stop using Mobil 1 when i posted about extreme oil loss

 

conventional oil has come along way nothing wrong with switching back. However I have read alot of used oil anaylsis reports and Mobile 1 seems to be a thin synthetic and shows unusual lead wear in the VQ35. Mobile 1 is a great oil just doesnt seem to agree with this engine. Try Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (made in germany) only sold at autozone. I have seen several used oil anylysis on this oil also and it has done very very well. Its also alot thicker then M1

 

here is a used oil analysis on an 04 G35c, using German Castrol Syntec 0w-30
great oil



http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...rue#Post253708

 

I'm running Mobile 1 5w-30 in mine. No problems yet.

 

The problem with the extreme oil loss is not the oil itself.....

That is a problem with some of the VQs and you may be able to get a new motor.


p.s.- in a civic....run conventional....in a performance based vehicle...run synthetic

 

amsoil 10w-30 here 7500mi per change

 

yep running a true synthetic for anything less then 6000 miles is such a waste. Some people saying they change mobile 1 @ 3000miles what a waste of money

if you look at the UOA link I posted the oil could go to 10k with no problem. I have a friend running Mobile 1 extended for 12k

 

Nissan head tech who seemed knowledgeable told me not to use synthetic, take it or leave it.

 

I use synthetic but a friend I track with runs conventional oil all the time with no problems. Like I said earlier dont rule out conventional its come a long way also.

However I think the tech was not recommending synthetic because most synthetics run thinner then conventional oils. Thats why I like German Castro Syntec 0w-30 its closer to a 35 weight oil while mobile 1 5w-30 is closer to a 25 weight oil. Many argue the Vq35 likes a thicker oil.

 

Yup...

on amsoil's website they claim 25,000 mile life on their oils under normal duty and 15,000 under extreme duty.

Porsche Cayenne's have 15k miles service intervals, just maintain the oil level in between

 

No matter how far conventional oils have come they cannot be compared to a true synthetic oil.

Now the story on synthetics. There are 3 types of synthetic oil. Type III, IV, and V.

Type III is crude oil refined using the hydrocracking process to maker a base stock consisting of like molecules which adds to the stability and beneficial porperties of an oil. This oil has contaminant such as sulphur which is bad. This oil will when heated form carbon and sludge. It relies on oil pressure and an oil film to lubricate therefore start ups are dry start ups until oil pressure is present to produce a film stregtn stong enough to prevent metal to metal contact. Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Penzoil, Quaker State are all type III and not true synthetics even know they say "Full synthetic" on the bottle!

Type IV oil is a true synthetic. It is manufactured from natural gas with POA as a base stock. The oil has no impurities as type III but is still hydrocarbon based and will still form carbon and sludge when heated. It also relies on oil pressure and an oil film to lubricate therefore start ups are dry start ups until oil pressure is present to produce a film stregtn stong enough to prevent metal to metal contact. Mobil 1, most Amsoils, Redline, Royal Purple and Castrol 0W30 Euro Blend are type IV.

Typre V is an ester based synthetic oil, and will not carbonize or form sludge when heated. It does not evaportate as quickly as type III or IV. Esters are polar and are attracted to the metal surfaces in the engine. Esters are very stable in respect to viscosity and do not rely on viscosity modifiers which are a necessity in type III and IV oils. It DOES NOT rely on film stregnth to lubricate. It is a 0 % shear oil. It will not dry start! Every jet engine in the world is lubricated with this stuff. Some type IV oils contain a small percent of type V ester base stock (usually less than 10% max) but no one knows how much as recipes are a trade secret. Some Motuls are true 100% ester based oils like Motul 300V chrono. They are very expensive but they are the best.

Determine your budget, engine use and comfort level and then decide which oil you would like to use.

JET

 

Your right about the USA made castrol Syntecs not being true synthetic. However German made castrol Syntec 0w-30, Is a group IV synthetic. Havent heard positive proof but the new Penziol Platinum Is supposed to be a true synthetic also.

 

If it is SOLD in Germany and says "Full Synthetic" then yes your correct. German law is different from US laws. US laws allow type III or higher oils to be called full synthetic while Germany allows type IV or higher to be called full synthetic.

JET

 

it is made and sold in german, also sold in the USA but only @ autozone.

 

Motor oil has been discussed almost as much as the pop charger. Search is a great tool.

 

I'm just a little confused. I usually use Royal Purple and have gone for the full 6,000 miles between changes with it. In all honesty, from a performance standpoint, after 3,000 it's a steady decline in "quickness" of the engine. It seems like the oil just gets less and less "slippery" making the car slow down faster when engine breaking and of course taking off. Once I change oil again to the same oil brand and type (5w-30 Royal Purple) the car feels like it has a new engine again with about a 20-30% boost in power as compared with the used oil. YET when the old oil is taken out it's still quite clean and looks good, it's just alot less lubricating or whatever the technical term is. One of the guys above said it's a waste unless u run the full synthetic to the manufacter's suggested limit of 6,000, but I can't really agree with that when I feel such a difference in performance after 3k. Actually it feels like new oil up until about 2.5k and then about 3+ I just down't like it anymore b/c of the performance drop. Anyways, i'm repeating myself.

Finally, my question... What brands are those that are actually the Type 5 Oils and what is suitable for the vq35. Also, where do you get it? How bout some numbers on cost too? details is what i'm looking for.

 

Conventional especially if it is stock. IMO and you can take this with a grain of salt but the manual recommends conventional. Now if you are boosted or seek longer oil change intervals, then hell synthetic it is. But if you are stock you are wasting money. Plus seriously, most of us here will trade or sell out z when it hits 100,000 anyway so why pay twice for oil? There is almost a thinking amongst some Z owners that if you don't use synthetic your engine will go blow. Just go with the recommended intervals and change filters for stock applications, and check the fluid levels once a month. Some magical people in Nissan-arnia worked there tiny fingers to the bone in order to build these vq engines tested the proper recommend maintenance parameters, and I for one majored in the social science and not chemistry. And just remember, its a $30000 car, not a Maclaren F1 people. Now I'll get off my soap box.

 

Placebo effect maybe which has been shown to have drastic effects on subjects perceptions on drug studies.

 

I'm a mobile1 guy myself, but heres a little info I picked up a couple months ago.

A buddy of mine works at a dealership, parts dept. Recently a guy came to have his Tacoma worked on, had either seized or had horrid rod knock, I can't remember. He had been running mobil1 since he bought it. The truck had around 150k at this time. The dealer convinced the guy to buy a new tacoma and they gave him a pretty good deal on his. They then contacted mobil1 about the issue and mobil1 flipped the bill for a "new from toyota" motor. I don't know how they deemed the oil to blame but nice to know that they will go that far to back up their product.

I personally have never had any problems with mobil1.

Sorry this is a very limited, on a time constraint. I'll try and update later.