350Z hard to downshift?
Originally Posted by MagicPie
Well without a synchromesh to bring the selector and gear to the same speed, they are prevented by a baulk from making contact. When synchronization occurs the blocker ring is moved, and bring everything in alignment. In case it would have something to do with a gear change
Even if 6th does have a synchro, a drop into 4th would require that his rpm be fairly high to match properly, otherwise you would experienced the blocking of 4th gear that the OP mentioned.
but maybe I am talking out my ***, its late and am tried
Even if 6th does have a synchro, a drop into 4th would require that his rpm be fairly high to match properly, otherwise you would experienced the blocking of 4th gear that the OP mentioned.
but maybe I am talking out my ***, its late and am tried

Originally Posted by MagicPie
Even if 6th does have a synchro, a drop into 4th would require that his rpm be fairly high to match properly, otherwise you would experienced the blocking of 4th gear that the OP mentioned.
Don't wanna argue, but did you NOT read what i said? rev-matching is pointless when you know and do double cluching, or simply said because the two thing are similar "BUT NOT THE SAME", one helps you transmission, the ather makes you feel like a better driver, because it makes the transition to another gear smoother. PLS do not misinterprit what i said, because i do know the difference, just because i do not you the same term as rev-matching. OK now as i said i am not argueing, just commenting.
Originally Posted by Spike100
That’s what I’m thinking, but maybe I am missing something here. My understanding of rev-matching is depressing the clutch (and therefore the transmission is in neutral), blipping the throttle to up the engine speed (rpm’s), and shifting to the lower gear while engaging the clutch.
Double-clutching is very different. That is something I had to do on my old
Dodge PowerWagon which had no synchromesh. Whether I was up-shifting or down-shifting, I had to double-clutch. If I started out in 1st gear, I had to shift into neutral, rev-match the engine to the tranny, depress the clutch while doing this, and select the next up-gear. If I did it right, it went smoothly. If I missed, the transmission would grind and stubbornly refuse dropping into the gear I selected. Down-shifts presented the same challenge.
You don’t have to do this exercise with the Z since it has synchromesh in all forward gears. You simply depress the clutch pedal, blip the accelerator for a nice rev-match, shift, and release the clutch pedal.
--Spike
Double-clutching is very different. That is something I had to do on my old
Dodge PowerWagon which had no synchromesh. Whether I was up-shifting or down-shifting, I had to double-clutch. If I started out in 1st gear, I had to shift into neutral, rev-match the engine to the tranny, depress the clutch while doing this, and select the next up-gear. If I did it right, it went smoothly. If I missed, the transmission would grind and stubbornly refuse dropping into the gear I selected. Down-shifts presented the same challenge.
You don’t have to do this exercise with the Z since it has synchromesh in all forward gears. You simply depress the clutch pedal, blip the accelerator for a nice rev-match, shift, and release the clutch pedal.
--Spike
Originally Posted by Spike100
Going from 6th to 4th is a little tricky and takes some practice. It’s much easier to go 6th to 5th to 4th, and truthfully you can get there almost as fast going through 6th directly to 4th gear. Usually, I run in 6th gear on the expressway, but I go down to 5th for its torque when I know I may want to get to 4th gear quickly.
I always rev-match for smooth downshifts (I guess you could call this double-clutching, but that’s a different discussion and I agree with comments here that say double-clutching is not the same as rev-matching).
--Spike
I always rev-match for smooth downshifts (I guess you could call this double-clutching, but that’s a different discussion and I agree with comments here that say double-clutching is not the same as rev-matching).
--Spike
Timing is everything.....
Last edited by Z_Driver; Sep 9, 2007 at 10:24 PM.
Originally Posted by 350Zimo
Don't wanna argue, but did you NOT read what i said? rev-matching is pointless when you know and do double cluching, or simply said because the two thing are similar "BUT NOT THE SAME", one helps you transmission, the ather makes you feel like a better driver, because it makes the transition to another gear smoother. PLS do not misinterprit what i said, because i do know the difference, just because i do not you the same term as rev-matching. OK now as i said i am not argueing, just commenting.
What you could also try is, get to a decent speed on 2nd gear, and use your shifting technique to downshift from 2nd to 1st. If you can't shift to 1st even if you double clutch, you are not matching the revs well enough.
well, 2nd to 1st -- ahhh, i dont do it much , i mainly use first to take off, or for a hard launch to gime me some good speed. 6th gear with 60 mph the car runs at 'bout 2100rpms. when i downshift i would rev it pretty high and just drop the cluch(after i double cluch it of course) when all vibrations on the gear **** and pedal lessen out, i dont know exactly to tell you can't do the same thing on two cars , you just feel it, my daily driver is a 92 bmw 318, and you know in the city you use 2nd gear alot, so i do double cluch it 99.9999% on the time, either way grinds like nuts, the Zed is different story, so i dont try to memorise certain RPMs, and what gear where, it has to feel good, just intuition i guess.
I'm not sure what RPM 4th gear will be at 60 mph. But that's what I would try. Take 4th gear up to 60 mph, and take note of the RPM. Then when you downshift from 6th to 4th at 60 mph, aim for that RPM. If you still feel something 'blocking' you, at least you've ruled out the rev-matching bit.
I would,, about you - have you ever tried to shift without depressing the cluch pedal. Now, see the rpms in 4th gear at 60mph, try to be on an even surface, so the car can retain 60mph, without pushing the cluch pedal, just give some gas and with a gental push the shift **** out without using the cluch at all, than as you try to match the rpm of 4th gear at 60mph , and push gearshifter back in 4th , it works well in situation where your clutch is completly GONE, pedal down to the flore,
Originally Posted by MagicPie
Double clutching and rev matching are not the same
Double clutching was needed before transmissions had synchros, even then only race cars really need to do such a thing. It is pointless to do this in a modern car
however rev matching is a important thing to do and learn.
rev matching--clutch in, rev to correct rpms while selecting gear, clutch out
double clutching-clutch in, change to neutral, clutch out, rev to correct rpms, clutch in, select gear, clutch out.
---------------
To the OP, am not saying you cant shift from 6th to 4th, I do that from time to time when I pass, just be aware that you must rev higher then the miles and rpm require for 4th and ease out on the clutch. If you simply trying to drop into 4th from 6th, I think your problem your experiencing is due to the fact that 6th doest use the synchros.
Double clutching was needed before transmissions had synchros, even then only race cars really need to do such a thing. It is pointless to do this in a modern car
however rev matching is a important thing to do and learn.
rev matching--clutch in, rev to correct rpms while selecting gear, clutch out
double clutching-clutch in, change to neutral, clutch out, rev to correct rpms, clutch in, select gear, clutch out.
---------------
To the OP, am not saying you cant shift from 6th to 4th, I do that from time to time when I pass, just be aware that you must rev higher then the miles and rpm require for 4th and ease out on the clutch. If you simply trying to drop into 4th from 6th, I think your problem your experiencing is due to the fact that 6th doest use the synchros.
Originally Posted by roast
...and you rely too much on wikipedia. 
Originally Posted by AlmostJesus
Do you just let the clutch out or do you give it a bit of gas while letting it out to balance it.
If your fast and smooth enough you can throw up the rpms, and simply ease off the clutch, but theres the chance of a rough shift if you get it wrong.
here is a bit more gas for the fire...
If you match the revs correctly, the clutch is not required. Simply put all it does remove the load of the engine from the input side of the gear cluster.
If you take your foot of the gas, it should be very easy to move the shifter into neutral. Then if you match the revs to the gear you want to go to, the shifter should slide right in...
One caveat though, this isn't something I would learn on an expensive gearbox like in a new Z. Spike100's old dodge truck, or the old Ford Cortina that I learned on 20+ years ago would be great. It is actually a lot of fun to learn if you have an old beater to practice with.
If you match the revs correctly, the clutch is not required. Simply put all it does remove the load of the engine from the input side of the gear cluster.
If you take your foot of the gas, it should be very easy to move the shifter into neutral. Then if you match the revs to the gear you want to go to, the shifter should slide right in...
One caveat though, this isn't something I would learn on an expensive gearbox like in a new Z. Spike100's old dodge truck, or the old Ford Cortina that I learned on 20+ years ago would be great. It is actually a lot of fun to learn if you have an old beater to practice with.
Originally Posted by Spike100
That’s what I’m thinking, but maybe I am missing something here. My understanding of rev-matching is depressing the clutch (and therefore the transmission is in neutral), blipping the throttle to up the engine speed (rpm’s), and shifting to the lower gear while engaging the clutch.
Double-clutching is very different. That is something I had to do on my old
Dodge PowerWagon which had no synchromesh. Whether I was up-shifting or down-shifting, I had to double-clutch. If I started out in 1st gear, I had to shift into neutral, rev-match the engine to the tranny, depress the clutch while doing this, and select the next up-gear. If I did it right, it went smoothly. If I missed, the transmission would grind and stubbornly refuse dropping into the gear I selected. Down-shifts presented the same challenge.
You don’t have to do this exercise with the Z since it has synchromesh in all forward gears. You simply depress the clutch pedal, blip the accelerator for a nice rev-match, shift, and release the clutch pedal.
--Spike
Double-clutching is very different. That is something I had to do on my old
Dodge PowerWagon which had no synchromesh. Whether I was up-shifting or down-shifting, I had to double-clutch. If I started out in 1st gear, I had to shift into neutral, rev-match the engine to the tranny, depress the clutch while doing this, and select the next up-gear. If I did it right, it went smoothly. If I missed, the transmission would grind and stubbornly refuse dropping into the gear I selected. Down-shifts presented the same challenge.
You don’t have to do this exercise with the Z since it has synchromesh in all forward gears. You simply depress the clutch pedal, blip the accelerator for a nice rev-match, shift, and release the clutch pedal.
--Spike
Therefore if you do not double clutch, meaning you clutch in - blip throttle -shift into new gear - clutch out, the throttle blip gets the engine speed to where it should be based on the drive shaft speed translated through the newly selected gear. The synchros have to do the work of synchronizing the newly selected gear speed with that of the drive shaft.
When double clutching, the throttle blip occurs when the transmission is in neutral meaning the clutch is engaged and the input end of the tranny is free-wheeling at engine speed. The throttle blip increases the tranny input shaft speed so that the synchros have to do very little work to allow the selector to mesh into the new gear.
Not intending to argue here, but I just wanted to create a discussion for the difference between Neutral and disengaged. I like these discussions, because I think a lot of people who know how to drive get a chance to learn what actually allows them to do it.
Last edited by sry110; Sep 10, 2007 at 09:32 AM.
Originally Posted by sry110
You mentioned that depressing the clutch is equivalent to the transmission being in neutral, but I disagree. The two conditions are the same from the point of view that the engine speed can vary without affecting the wheel speed, but I think that's where the similarity ends. When the clutch pedal is depressed the transmission is disconnected from the flywheel, meanwhile when the transmission is in Neutral and the clutch pedal is not depressed the engine is spinning the transmission input shaft at engine speed, although no gear is selected. (To my knowledge the transmission input shaft is 'free-wheeling' at engine speed in this condition).
Therefore if you do not double clutch, meaning you clutch in - blip throttle -shift into new gear - clutch out, the throttle blip gets the engine speed to where it should be based on the drive shaft speed translated through the newly selected gear. The synchros have to do the work of synchronizing the newly selected gear speed with that of the drive shaft.
When double clutching, the throttle blip occurs when the transmission is in neutral meaning the clutch is engaged and the input end of the tranny is free-wheeling at engine speed. The throttle blip increases the tranny input shaft speed so that the synchros have to do very little work to allow the selector to mesh into the new gear.
Not intending to argue here, but I just wanted to create a discussion for the difference between Neutral and disengaged. I like these discussions, because I think a lot of people who know how to drive get a chance to learn what actually allows them to do it.
Therefore if you do not double clutch, meaning you clutch in - blip throttle -shift into new gear - clutch out, the throttle blip gets the engine speed to where it should be based on the drive shaft speed translated through the newly selected gear. The synchros have to do the work of synchronizing the newly selected gear speed with that of the drive shaft.
When double clutching, the throttle blip occurs when the transmission is in neutral meaning the clutch is engaged and the input end of the tranny is free-wheeling at engine speed. The throttle blip increases the tranny input shaft speed so that the synchros have to do very little work to allow the selector to mesh into the new gear.
Not intending to argue here, but I just wanted to create a discussion for the difference between Neutral and disengaged. I like these discussions, because I think a lot of people who know how to drive get a chance to learn what actually allows them to do it.
--Spike
Originally Posted by jinsei888

double clutching?
EDIT: I just found out that all the smoke that pours out from under the hood wasn't from fried piston rings, it was actually melted synchros from all that high-speed downshifting without double clutching. Let that be a lesson...
Last edited by sry110; Sep 10, 2007 at 05:28 PM.
Originally Posted by Spike100
You are correct. Clutch pedal down while the transmission is in a selected gear is quite different than clutch pedal down while the transmission is in neutral. I mis-spoke and my statement confuses the discussion; thanks for pointing this (my error) out.
--Spike
--Spike
EDIT: Here is the link for anyone interested:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm
Originally Posted by Z_Driver
I do a sixth to fourth shift but, I take it slow and make sure I hit it just right. It's not a perfect U if you know what I mean. If I have to shift quickly from 6th to 4th for power; step part way in 5th for a split second (enough for syncro alignment) with the clutch in and continue to 4th. Goes in smooth as glass. The syncros like that move a lot better just take a split second more. However, it much better and faster than actually engaging 5th. Bimping the gas twice along the way at the right time helps as well.
Timing is everything.....
Timing is everything.....
You make a good point.
--Spike
Originally Posted by Spike100
Yup... That how I do it. I depress the clutch pedal, go from 6th to 5th (but not engaging the trasmission, i.e., the move to 5th is only to orientate a quick shift to 4th), blip the accelerator to rev-match the downshift and the clutch pedal is down the entire time, then pull the shift to 4th and engage the clutch. That haqppens very fast and avoids missing the "gate" when trying to go directly from 6th to 4th.
You make a good point.
--Spike
You make a good point.
--Spike







