The adjustment is a threaded shaft to the left part of the clutch pedal assembly inside the car that goes directly to the master cylinder. It uses a lock nut to maintain the adjusted pedal height. Just loosen the lock nut and turn the shaft clockwise to allow the clutch to release higher and counter clockwise to allow it to release lower or sooner, then re-tighten lock nut. This may help I've been told. I just installed a jwt flywheel and clutch masters disc. I'm going to try it for myself because it now releases really high! If you do choose to adjust it be sure and adjust the bump stop at the top and the limit switch at the bottom(will not start if the pedal doesn't touch it when pressed to the floor)

 

How come ive never heard of this before??

 

I just happened to see a write up about it in the forums. Here's the link: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ht=CLUTCH+FORK
In his instructions he mentions turning it opposite of what I posted but it's because he is looking at it while on his back and I am looking at it from the front(pedal view). You learn something everyday about these cars!

 

Just realized today that I end up starting at 1500 rpms.

 

my first MT was my 06 z and it kinda blows learning on this car... i still get rough shifts from 1st to 2nd and my start can be shakey at times

 

Yeah - Ive only had this car for 300 miles and IM already driving by feel/sound.

However, I put 45,000 miles on my manual WRX and it wasnt much different of a clutch.

 

I usually start off at about 4000 rpms, slip the clutch a little and then floor it.

 

I read the entire 20 page thread about this mod, I'm not doing it. (no proof it does not shorten clutch life, but some evidence it does)

 

usually under 1k. If its cold i hardly give it gas at all. Just let the clutch out till you feel it start to barely move and meet the gas pedal at that time just barely keep easing out the clutch and should work perfect. If on big hill do same thing but faster lol.

 

5500k

 

as long as the needle is somewhere in the red zone of the tach just drop the clutch



so how in the hell do you rev to 5,500,000 rpm's?

 

Must have a K20A1 swap.

 

 

I have a JWT clutch and now my engagement point is a lot lower (which is much better for me since I'm fairly tall and I kind of have to twist my leg as i pull it out so as to avoid hitting the bottom of the steering wheel with my knee). My friend that worked at Jiffy Lube said 350s and Porsches had the hardest clutches. I've always heard that the longer you have your clutch partially engaged the more it wares it down. i'm trying to heal toe now when i'm downshifting hard coming into a turn anybody else do this is it really bad for the car to do to much?

 

from a stop on flat ground i normally give it around 1500 or so to get going and it dips slightly upon engagement.

 

lol

 

heel toe shifting is not bad for anything, given that you are rev-matching and not dragging it out.

 

An excellent thread - I still have not learned how to launch this car - after 1500+ miles! My 98 Camaro V6 required only idle - step off the clutch - going. this car likes her revs, but of course, nailing those revs just "so" w/out peeling out is the challenge - It is a challenge! I have a high rev 08.

 

Oh, yeah - don't drop the clutch at some insane rpm's -
I used to worry what people thought of me on these forums, till I realised that internet forums are full of idiolts! The "advice" you get here is worthless
So - go **** yourself! I don't give a damn whether you live or die!