Got the new Escort G-Timer 2 and did a few runs!
#1
Got the new Escort G-Timer 2 and did a few runs!
For those not familiar with it you can see all about it at this link
G-Timer 2
Just picked it up a few hours ago at Tweeter for $250, got the last one and they were just released 2 weeks ago.. This thing has LOTs of features and a 10 run capacity and top 10 saved bests in all catagorys and a G-force meter.. Also it auto calibrates before each run.. Just plug it into the 12V and mount it nicely and calibrate..
Now my best runs prior to today was a 13.98@99.49 (nipped gov and lost Mph) and my best trap up till now was 100.86Mph. These were recorded at a drag strip at about 4500 miles and a 60 degree day med humidity..
Today's runs on my G-Timer with 10,100 miles, new tranny and dry 50 degree weather.
It has all times in 10mph increments but i'll just give the important ones..
60' - 2.13
0-60 - 5.27s
1/8 - 8.97@80.8mph
1/4 - 13.82@102.3mph
Also It said my top speed during the run was 103.7 and I seen my digital meter hit 104 before slowing so I know its reading accurate info as far as mph. My run was on a fairly flat and level road, if anything the first 1/8 may have been SLIGHTLY uphill and the 2nd 1/8 might have been SLIGHTLY downhill overall..
Other runs (only to 60 pulling out onto highways)
0-60 5.54
0-60 5.47
0-60 5.9 (kinda pulled out at an angle before straightening out.
Got the G meter to .66 around a rotary before slowing for cars
Now I havn't played around with it too much, just for about 1 hr, but it seems very accurate so far, I plan on checking it on some other cars. How much stock should I put into these numbers? It says in the documentation that this GT2's technology is far better then past "performance analyzers" and the accuracy is much improved.
G-Timer 2
Just picked it up a few hours ago at Tweeter for $250, got the last one and they were just released 2 weeks ago.. This thing has LOTs of features and a 10 run capacity and top 10 saved bests in all catagorys and a G-force meter.. Also it auto calibrates before each run.. Just plug it into the 12V and mount it nicely and calibrate..
Now my best runs prior to today was a 13.98@99.49 (nipped gov and lost Mph) and my best trap up till now was 100.86Mph. These were recorded at a drag strip at about 4500 miles and a 60 degree day med humidity..
Today's runs on my G-Timer with 10,100 miles, new tranny and dry 50 degree weather.
It has all times in 10mph increments but i'll just give the important ones..
60' - 2.13
0-60 - 5.27s
1/8 - 8.97@80.8mph
1/4 - 13.82@102.3mph
Also It said my top speed during the run was 103.7 and I seen my digital meter hit 104 before slowing so I know its reading accurate info as far as mph. My run was on a fairly flat and level road, if anything the first 1/8 may have been SLIGHTLY uphill and the 2nd 1/8 might have been SLIGHTLY downhill overall..
Other runs (only to 60 pulling out onto highways)
0-60 5.54
0-60 5.47
0-60 5.9 (kinda pulled out at an angle before straightening out.
Got the G meter to .66 around a rotary before slowing for cars
Now I havn't played around with it too much, just for about 1 hr, but it seems very accurate so far, I plan on checking it on some other cars. How much stock should I put into these numbers? It says in the documentation that this GT2's technology is far better then past "performance analyzers" and the accuracy is much improved.
Last edited by Daytona Blue Z in Bo; 09-02-2003 at 05:36 PM.
#3
Originally posted by ares
best way to find out is head to the track, and bring this, compare its numbers.
best way to find out is head to the track, and bring this, compare its numbers.
#4
one thing tho, does it give you trap speed? or final speed?
I dont know why but drag strips still take an average of the final speeds, so it should read a bit higher on the final speed vs a trap speed that the track would give you.
I dont know why but drag strips still take an average of the final speeds, so it should read a bit higher on the final speed vs a trap speed that the track would give you.
#7
I also bought the Escort G2 timer to play around with. I also have the software and cable to connect it to your computer on back order. When I get back to Florida I will make a run at one of the tracks just to see how it compares. I just wanted something to play around with now.
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#8
Ya I gotta look into getting the software and the cable - I think its only $25.. So far I think its an amazing device. SO easy to use and so simple to start and review runs.. Also lots of other cool options.
#11
Just in case your test road isn't perfectly flat, do a run in both directions, then take the average of those runs. That will account for any incline or decline in the road.
Also, has anyone used any of the other units of this type? I've got an older G-Tech Pro, which I've always liked although it lacks a lot of the features. Now they have the G-tech Pro Competition, which looks to do the same functions as this new Escort unit. I'd be very interested to see how the Gtech Pro Comp compares.
Also, has anyone used any of the other units of this type? I've got an older G-Tech Pro, which I've always liked although it lacks a lot of the features. Now they have the G-tech Pro Competition, which looks to do the same functions as this new Escort unit. I'd be very interested to see how the Gtech Pro Comp compares.
#12
It fits perfectly above the oil pressure guage on the windshield, the only annoyance is the cord running accross the center of the car. The cord is plently long, its about 1.5 feet coiled (6ft max) and after working it a little I managed to run it neatly down the center of the dashboard and between the center console and the passanger seat and up to the 12V. The cord is supposed to reach up to 6Ft. I really don't wanna hardwire it since its not something I plan to have in my car all the time, expecially since its a bullseye for somebody to break in and steal it.
Hey reiter, good idea about the runs in both directions, i'll try and find a spot where I can run both ways.
Hey reiter, good idea about the runs in both directions, i'll try and find a spot where I can run both ways.
#13
Drag strips don't have a way of measuring speed directly (at least not historically - maybe they use radar or something these days), so in order to determine your trap speed they measure the time it takes to travel the last 100' of the 1/4. It sounds like the G-timer may be doing something similar, since it has a different value for the trap speed and the max speed during the run.
Pretty cool.
I'd be interested in hearing how it compares to the times given at the track.
Could you mount it in the NAV compartment to keep it hidden when not in use? I guess that only works for people who don't already have the NAV system.
-D'oh!
Pretty cool.
I'd be interested in hearing how it compares to the times given at the track.
Could you mount it in the NAV compartment to keep it hidden when not in use? I guess that only works for people who don't already have the NAV system.
-D'oh!
#14
i was thinking i would dremel out the spot right in front of the shift boot. it would fit perfectly (i believe). but, you have to press the buttons as you are driving...correct?? or am i wrong about that?
#16
It would fit into the Nav compartment easily, but I may be wrong but I don't think the supplied mounting bracket will mount at a 90 degree angle, its built for the windshield.. You will need a sturdy and level way to mount it to get a good calibration for accuracy. But if you are planning on keeping it in your car long term hardwiring it into the nav box would be awesome or if you can dremel out a clean area that will work too..
Actually you don't really have to push any buttons unless you are stopped and about to start a timed run or you want to switch the G-Meter display or flip thru past run data. It actually has a contol attached to the actual 12V connector for changing the display modes and starting timed runs also, so you could get away with only hitting the main unit buttons for just reviewing data..
Just a hint for the people who get it, do the origional calibration out of the box in a garage so you can assure your on level ground.
Actually you don't really have to push any buttons unless you are stopped and about to start a timed run or you want to switch the G-Meter display or flip thru past run data. It actually has a contol attached to the actual 12V connector for changing the display modes and starting timed runs also, so you could get away with only hitting the main unit buttons for just reviewing data..
Just a hint for the people who get it, do the origional calibration out of the box in a garage so you can assure your on level ground.
#17
how does this appliance calculate horesepower?
also, during the acceleration run, do you have to simultaneously have to hit a button and launch the car, or does it automatically start timing when it senses movement?
also, during the acceleration run, do you have to simultaneously have to hit a button and launch the car, or does it automatically start timing when it senses movement?
#18
Originally posted by DrDrilZ
how does this appliance calculate horesepower?
also, during the acceleration run, do you have to simultaneously have to hit a button and launch the car, or does it automatically start timing when it senses movement?
how does this appliance calculate horesepower?
also, during the acceleration run, do you have to simultaneously have to hit a button and launch the car, or does it automatically start timing when it senses movement?
Before a run when you are stopped you hit the timer button, wait 1-2 seconds, it says ready.. Then you go whenever your ready.. Also you don't have to do full runs every time, it automatically stops the run after
a: 1/4 mile
b: 30 seconds
c: you stop accelerating
d: you hit the timer button
So you can do a run up to say 45 MPH and it will give you:
60'
330'
0-10
0-20
0-30
0-40
#19
Originally posted by Daytona Blue Z in Bo
It would fit into the Nav compartment easily, but I may be wrong but I don't think the supplied mounting bracket will mount at a 90 degree angle, its built for the windshield.. You will need a sturdy and level way to mount it to get a good calibration for accuracy. But if you are planning on keeping it in your car long term hardwiring it into the nav box would be awesome or if you can dremel out a clean area that will work too..
Actually you don't really have to push any buttons unless you are stopped and about to start a timed run or you want to switch the G-Meter display or flip thru past run data. It actually has a contol attached to the actual 12V connector for changing the display modes and starting timed runs also, so you could get away with only hitting the main unit buttons for just reviewing data..
Just a hint for the people who get it, do the origional calibration out of the box in a garage so you can assure your on level ground.
It would fit into the Nav compartment easily, but I may be wrong but I don't think the supplied mounting bracket will mount at a 90 degree angle, its built for the windshield.. You will need a sturdy and level way to mount it to get a good calibration for accuracy. But if you are planning on keeping it in your car long term hardwiring it into the nav box would be awesome or if you can dremel out a clean area that will work too..
Actually you don't really have to push any buttons unless you are stopped and about to start a timed run or you want to switch the G-Meter display or flip thru past run data. It actually has a contol attached to the actual 12V connector for changing the display modes and starting timed runs also, so you could get away with only hitting the main unit buttons for just reviewing data..
Just a hint for the people who get it, do the origional calibration out of the box in a garage so you can assure your on level ground.
#20
Originally posted by Daytona Blue Z in Bo
Yes it does calculate HP, just enter in the car's curb weight and a couple other small details and its good to go.
Yes it does calculate HP, just enter in the car's curb weight and a couple other small details and its good to go.
Ideally you would actually weigh your car and get an accurate measurement. (For example, the local university here in my city has a vehicle scale that anyone can use for free.) If you just use the factory curb weight numbers you're HP measurements won't be exactly correct, but rather ball park numbers.
However, as with the G-tech units, I'm sure the readings are consistent as long as your car's weight stays the same and you enter the same weight into the unit each time. That being the case, you can safely use these types of units to measure HP gains from mods. For example, the thing might say you have 230 HP before and 240 HP after a mod, but your *actual* power is more like 240 HP and 250 HP after. So even though the numbers themselves might not be right, the *difference* is correct. So you can be reasonably sure you gained 10 HP. (And that's what really matters.)
Just be sure and keep all the factors the same each time you do it. (As much as possible, anyway.) I'd recommend using a full tank of gas each time, that way you can be sure the weight is the same. And weigh yourself before each run, so you can add your correct weight to the weight of the car. And so forth.
Last edited by jreiter; 09-03-2003 at 01:59 PM.