Just got a quote today. The first thing the lady asked me was how much was the car. I told her $31,7k before TT&L. Then she punched in some numbers, then told me it would be $606.00 per 6 months. This is with FULL coverage, 25000/50000 coverage, and $200 deductable. I had her raised to $500 deductable and it only saved me $25 per 6months. So, I think that's the best rate I can get.

Btw, I am using AllState.

 

Hrm,

It really depends on the individual. I work in the Auto Insurance industry and have seen a few requests for Z insurance and I have seen a range of 1400-3400 a year, and an occasional... no way are you getting insurance

 

JDZ- Thats cheap! I am in NJ, and was quoted 1500 a year today which I thought wasn't too bad for NJ.

 

Actually a few tips if you want to keep your rates down:

1-Get the highest possible collision deduct, if you are not a bad driver. I use 1000$ coll/250 or 100$ comp. Reason is this, I have never been in an at fault accident and the savings by those premiums are 400-500 a year and that has saved me many times what the deduct will cost me if I get into even several accidents that are my fault.

2-Read the policy includes. Often a certain amount of aftermarket equipment is covered without having to purchase or disclose exactly what it is. Some places offer 1000$ to 5000$ automatically included in the rate at no additional charge. This also allows you to not inform your Insurance Co. that you have... oh say.... a turbocharged car that isn't stock. So long as you are willing to live with the fact that if you total it you will only get a maximum of 5000$ over NADA or KBB, whatever the co. uses. Also be sure to keep all receipts and pertinent information and documentation. If you do not, you will not see a dime. Also dont even bother get forged receipts and documents, they will be spotted a mile away.

3-Dont necessarily be the first guy to call your insurance co. in a minor accident. People dont normally know this, but some companies base their premiums on total accidents and citations, and not on only those at fault or situations thereof. Also, they can include things you would not normally believe to be accidents. Good ways to screw someones rates are to write a pothole collision as an accident and you will get tagged the same as you totalling a Ferrari in terms of rate increase, % base that is. Obviously if you think the guy is uninsured, drunk, or anything else that makes you nervous, call the cops asap. Even then you may not have to let your company know. Long story short, companies do punish drivers that are "unlucky".

4-Lying to claims. Happens a good 60-70% of all claims that my company deals with. People think they can pull one over on us by faking receipts, denying previous damage, including unrelated damage. The field agents spot this a mile away and it will be noted on the file and will likely affect your future premium renewal status and rates.

5-Traffic citations. Fight them all. Take the half day and go to court. I have received well over a dozen speeding and other citations over the past 5-6 years and only one of them even came close to sticking. Officers are people to, and the only reason they write tickets is because their boss tells them to, to pay their township bills. They want their conviction and your money, you want no points and no crazy insurance rates. Give it to em. A good way to do this is change the charge or plea to a lesser charge. EX: I got nailed for 110/55, wreckless driving, and public endangerment. Its a long story, but in the end the officer tailgated and entrapped me, he knew it, went to court and appeals court and it was eventually brought down to 66-55, which is nopoints and considered a minor violation and therefore has no impact on rates. BTW, most companies considering 12mph+ to be a serious offense. Other good outs are by using a changing of wording. Example, failure to stop or yield is much better when worded as "Failure to Obey Traffic devices" which is also no points and no hit to insurance but will give the officer his money and arrest conviction.

6-When moving consider where you will insure the car. If you are a student you can either insure it at your school or your parents house, find out which has a lower rate, more than likely it is directly linked to crime rates. To that extent, dont live in New Jersey. Last time I heard NJ insurance rates are roughly 300% higher than PA's. Do the math, if you are paying 1500 a year anywhere else in the USA you will likely pay upwards of 5000-6000 a year for the same coverage.

7-Know the discounts. Insurance companies are required by state and federal law to offer discounts for things like automatic seatbelts, alarms, tracking devices, bubble cars (8+airbag autos), and other unrelated things like good student, elderly, military, law enforcement, etc. I have seen people take a 2000k anual premium and take it down to 730$ with discounts... I took notes.

8-Tickets round 2. Treat a cop like a dick and you can count on getting several tickets and absolutely violent love in court. They will do nothing to help you, on the flipside if you treat them with respect as a professional (even if they are jackasses) they will be less inclined to stick it to you when you ask them for a break the day of court.

All I can think of off my head, but if you want to post questions on rates or anything I can check national insurance codes and procedures when I am in the office, just drop a note here.

 

Whats your info for a 1500$/annum rate in NJ? If you dont mind me asking that is. Tort options? stacked liabilities? deducts? what car? age? record? company?

That is by far the lowest rate I have heard of in NJ for full coverage on a car, let alone a new car, let alone an expensive car, let alone a sports car, let alone a 2 seater... you get the point

 

I was scared about Insurance, too, especially since I ordered the Track model. Called my Ins man yesterday and he says the only increase is due to the increase in value over the car I'm dropping. They strictly look at value.

Of course, this is because I'm 42 and have kept my nose clean for at least 15 years. He said if I go out and get a "careless and reckless" I can expect they'll sock it to me.

He also said the rates may change as the cars come out and they crash-test them and look at repair rates. They'll also adjust everyone's rate higher if a lot of people who own this car get in wrecks or have theft or damage claims so EVERYBODY BE REAL CAREFUL!!!!!

Of course, I don't have to say that. We'll all be real careful of our new babies. From everything I've read about the car's responsiveness, stability and intuitiveness, I also believe that it will be a very forgiving car and easy to avoid wrecking.

 

Fastest way to raise insurance rates is to buy the car which adorns the #1 stolen spot, which has been the Honda Accord for the last decade or so

EDIT: If you want the best rates, just make sure to shop around and watch the list above. A good example of this was....

Four years ago I was paying 2200/year for a GTI VR6 at 21 years old. Now I am 25 with a 2001 M3, still the 98 GTI VR6, and a 2002 Neon (wifes commuter) and my rates for all three are about 2400 a year with full coverage.

And no, you dont get discounts if you work for the insurance company, apparently its illegal!

 

Baven- I'm 30, 0 pts, 03 350Z, I do have a $1500 deductable which helps, W/ Farm Family Insurance- its farmers insurance and requires you to be a member of the NJ Farm Bureau. As far as coverage details I don't have them in front of me right now, but they are pretty much the middle of the road.

 

Also- This was on the Track model- they used my VIN for the quote.

 

No insurance company that I know of requires you to notify them. It may say so on their packet of information buy a good 30-40% of the time the company I work for never hears of incidents that we later find out about, and nothing is ever done in that case either.

However if someone calls three times and they are determined at no fault each occasion, their rate will be increased due to their "luck".

As for entrapment... driving down a 2 lane divided highway at around 11pm, deserted, no traffic at all in my father's M5. Out of nowhere I get some guy riding my *** at 70mph in a 55 and after several brakings and accelerating to try and force him to pass he didn't. This went on for several miles and it was at the point that when he was behind me I could not even see his headlights he was that close (before brake check . So after a while of tired of high beam blindness I tore off at well over 110.

Few miles down the road I see lights in front of me and eventually behind me, pull over it was a cop. Rights me a fistfull of tickets yadda yadda and eventually go to court. I show up with two attornies and go through the whole nine yards and have his dashboard camera and radio communication records shown, which shows him tailgating for no reason, when he could have passed, and causing a dangerous situation.

Basically, the excuse you use is...

"I was in the middle of nowhere, on a poorly lit road, dealing with what I felt was psychotic behavior in the middle of the night. Looked like a carjacking waiting to happen."

Thanked the judge, waved with a token fine, no points etc, and watched the officer get reprimanded and suspended.

 

I work for a top insurance carrier, despite what the policy says it is never followed through on, alot of things on policies are like that

The only time I would be calling right away is if I was clearly at fault or some shady circumstances.

 

OK, the lunatics have taken over the asylum!

In the first place, this is like two cops talking about one of them advocating exceeding the speed limit. Of course, nobody in their right mind would EVER go 56 or over in a 55 zone!!!

In the second place (and I am fully aware that I am opening up a major can of worms here that I will regret but I can't seem to stop my fingers from typing) how is it considered a loss to my insurance company if someone else damages my car and pays to have the damage fixed?

That's none of my insurance company's g*ddamm business as far as I'm concerned. It's not their car, it's mine. Frankly I'm alarmed at all of these seemingly-knowlegable people stating that my insurance contract probably states that they can invalidate my contract with them if I don't tell them something that they have no reasonable need to know, just to give them an excuse to jack up my rates.



OK, breathe 2-3-4 breathe 2-3-4.

Someone please explain this to me in a way that actually makes sense to a reasonable adult human being.

 

Ok, basically it is this way.

Your insurance policy normally states that under X criteria you must contact your insurance carrier. Normally that criteria includes any damage, vanadlism, collisions, traffic citations etc to your vehicle or involving your vehicle or license.

A for instance, if you notify your company that you were involved in a collision and the other party is found to be 100% at fault (say a drunk driver, blatant violation, officer wrote a citation) your insurance company *may* raise your rates or drop you at next renewal. The more often you are involved in accidents the more likely this is the case. It shouldn't happen but the "unlucky" clause isn't very fair, but its primarily to reflect the amount of driving you do and the way you do your driving.

The argument was that should I, as an insurance co. employee, recommend that you not report something minor to your company, such as someone bumping into you and them handing you cash or a personal check or something of that nature. It is not illegal to not report it, it is simply against the contractual agreement which could get you dropped.

Reality, it wont happen that way. Insurance companies have no way of finding this information out and 99.99% of the time if they do, they simply will not care since there was no reason for them to be involved and it would simple take up some of their valuable time, resources and therefor money.

Simple really