I have an 08 Nismo bought in February and now at the 7-month mark, the SES light came on and it was diagnosed to need a new temperature sensor (this will be covered under warranty). I'm sure that this thread will be full of replies pertaining to tire feathering, axle clicking, window motor failure, etc.

I love my Z and while Nissan makes more exciting cars, if they had the attention to detail that Toyota or Honda has, they'd be nigh invincible.

 

I've had my Z for two years already..
Im happy to say it has'nt been in once for service NO problems, rattles etc

I killed my front brakes with 10k on the OD buts that cuz i drive like an ****..

 

Like you expected - first warranty coverage was tires. Mine weren't feathered, but my first front set was completely worn by about 10,000 miles on the odometer (8 months of ownership).

Just got to 30K on the clock and have had a click in the clutch pedal assembly for the last 5K or so, turns out its faulty and Nissan is going to cover that too.

I think Nissan's just as buttoned-up as Toyota or Honda, if not close to it - my parents have had their 2002 RX300 in for minor warranty service more than my Z or our 1994 Max.

 

Tire feathering, of course ('03) Window motor, of course. Fuel hatch door relay (rather unique I think?) Fuel filler tube, under recall. Thats it under warranty. Cam position sensor at 81,000 miles, replaced it myself, 20 minutes, $80. Coil pack around the same time, $60, replaced it myself. That is it, now at 84,000. original tranny, original clutch, 5 sets of rear tires. No complaints.

 

Tire feathering, of course ('03) Window motor, new Trans. New struts for rear deck, replaced leaking brake caliper, fuel filler tube, under recall. Coil pack. Replaced clutch/fly wheel (never go Nismo), 5 sets of rear tires, 3 sets of front tires. Six sets of windshield wipers, etc. That is it, now at 95,000. No complaints.


Thanks for the plagiarism PerfZ

 

first warranty issue was at 59,699 when the power motor for the driver's side went out. thats it!

 

About a month after buying used, I noticed I was burning oil. Six months later, I got my Rev-Up replaced due to oil consumption. No issues since.

 

Excuse me?

 

Window motor.

 

2004 Roadster needed a Ram Air Sensor Mass Air Flow? pretty much paid for my extended warranty they wanted 800$

 

I have had my Z for about 5 months now. I have already had the rear hatch struts replaced due to what appeared to be oil leaking out of the left strut. I will need to go in soon to get my door hinges to looked at because the doors dont stay open on their own.

 

I had 2 tpms sensor batteries go out within the first 15 months of owning mine. It also fell under the slave cylinder recall. Other than that, nothing. My clutch pedal did the popping sound for awhile, but it went away.

 

Had to get a cat converter replaced.

 

my drivers door lock broke. I have to use the electronic switch to lock/unlock my door from the inside. Its not really a huge deal...but sometimes i just want to unlock my door instead of everything.

 

Nothing important.. just a new engine. First and only warranty repair.

 

about 4 months ago on my 08, the driver side window motor went out. After that all great.

 

Compression rod, front suspension. Followed by axle click. Then yes, feathering. Sold it after 14 months due mostly to changes in situation required at least a Coupe for DD use, and honestly it was being used up at a prodigious rate in terms of clutch, brakes, tires, but I was admittedly hard on it, tracking it, and it was a base (no Brembos, smallest tires sold on a 350z 225/17F 235/17R).

Only major warranty work on the G has been the gas tank vent hose recall when the dealer also fixed my new and familiar axle click. BOSE HU died on one channel in first or second year, replaced under warranty. No feathering. Window grease streaks, yes. Dead window motor out warranty, plus regulator, ~$500.

Next up and possibly last as my warranty is running out this year, leaking spark plug seals require replacement of the "rocker arm covers" or Valve Covers. All my Nissans (4 currently) have had some leakage around the spark plug hole seals on three different motors after 3-5 years. The difference here is the hole gasket is not available separately, you have to replace the VC's.

Honestly though I don't see these as such a buzz kill when you consider things like out of warranty BMW VANOS issues (I have a friend who dropped $3000+ into his used E46 for this). Both my cars have served me well, no oil consumption, never stranded me, I think both were "eyes wide open" purchases, the '03 Z in early Nov 2002 being very early production, and same for the '04 G Coupe in late Dec 2003, I knew enough shared content meant I would likely see some of the same issues.

FYI - 2010 update - the leaking VC's were replaced under my PT warranty free of charge, kudos to the dealer for standing behind me at 58k-59k miles when the warranty was almost done (IDK what Nissan does now, that's the standard Infiniti warranty which was different from my '03 Z to the '04 G Coupe).

 

I have an '08 Base w/33k on the odometer. Two problems - both after 30K. First problem was air conditioning - no cold air thru vents. Had controller replaced. Second and most recent problem was with the windows. Motors making noise, still cranking even when window was completely down. Both window motors replaced this past weekend.

 

Same here!!

 

The windows are controlled directly by the motor, which is controlled by a window regulator (tells the motor when the window is up, down, etc) and that in turn answers to a BCM (Body Control Module) or equivalent.

If the motor still tried to run and burnt out, then the regulator could have been in need of a reset procedure ("trains" to know what full up and full down means) or it's possible the regulator was bad - but not on both sides at once, and not at the same time, the driver's window almost always will fail first if the problem is with the motor or the regulator.

That says they were getting bad instructions from the control module (does locks, windows, etc). The odds of both sides losing their calibration at the same time are slim. SO, they do a CONSULT procedure to diagnose the module, then replace parts, reset, etc. But the correct repair starts with the point where they come together and that is it.

Keep a close watch on the windows any my unsolicted advice is if they do anything, anything at all that is weird, strange, or out of the ordinary operation take it back in right away.

The reason I say this is because my similar (not exact) module in my G Coupe decided to roll down both windows on its own one evening in Wintertime, and the car was doused with freezing rain before I put it into the garage for the night. I had been having a balky driver's window before that. I was very unhappy Key fobs were hanging on a rack hook, no way they were pressed like in a drawer or bag, etc. The BCM just hiccuped and dropped both windows all by itself.

It's a good but a little complicated system, just take note that it tends to all be interconnected and esp if you see some problem that is the same on both sides, go back ASAP. The reverse problem is if that noise occurs, and you don't jump on it, you may find you cannot close the windows. Ask me how I know...