What have you done for your Z today?
http://www.kenwoodforums.com/ has a writeup on doing it. Unfortunately it has been down for a few days.
Firstly, have you noticed that the pedal just feels like a sponge vs an on-off switch? I mean don't get me wrong, I like the smooth engagement/disengagement but I'm worried it's not quite right.
Secondly, sometimes after it's cold, the release point moves closer to the floor. I find myself pulling the clutch pedal back towards me and sort of "pumping" it like that a few times and the play goes away as the line builds pressure.
I thought this was an issue with air in my lines at first but after swapping fluid and bleeding the clutch line, I still have the issue. What I think is before when there was a spring to pull the pedal all the way back it sort of did this automatically but now that there is no spring, I'm doing it. Could be crazy though...
I have it too but I have a few questions...
Firstly, have you noticed that the pedal just feels like a sponge vs an on-off switch? I mean don't get me wrong, I like the smooth engagement/disengagement but I'm worried it's not quite right.
Secondly, sometimes after it's cold, the release point moves closer to the floor. I find myself pulling the clutch pedal back towards me and sort of "pumping" it like that a few times and the play goes away as the line builds pressure.
I thought this was an issue with air in my lines at first but after swapping fluid and bleeding the clutch line, I still have the issue. What I think is before when there was a spring to pull the pedal all the way back it sort of did this automatically but now that there is no spring, I'm doing it. Could be crazy though...
Firstly, have you noticed that the pedal just feels like a sponge vs an on-off switch? I mean don't get me wrong, I like the smooth engagement/disengagement but I'm worried it's not quite right.
Secondly, sometimes after it's cold, the release point moves closer to the floor. I find myself pulling the clutch pedal back towards me and sort of "pumping" it like that a few times and the play goes away as the line builds pressure.
I thought this was an issue with air in my lines at first but after swapping fluid and bleeding the clutch line, I still have the issue. What I think is before when there was a spring to pull the pedal all the way back it sort of did this automatically but now that there is no spring, I'm doing it. Could be crazy though...
If I do that then it won't disengage entirely once pressure has formed. It's hard to explain and I understand how it all works, it's not a simple thing. I think it may have to do with my slave cylinder
Came into to say I installed the RJM clutch bracket and find this whole page talking about it lol. Ordered mine about a month or so ago just been waiting on a nice weekend to do it.
I have a little bit of fine tuning to do to it still but so far I like it a lot over the stock setup. I ended up with carpet burn on my elbow from being in and out of under the dash so many times, but it was worth every penny.
I have a little bit of fine tuning to do to it still but so far I like it a lot over the stock setup. I ended up with carpet burn on my elbow from being in and out of under the dash so many times, but it was worth every penny.
Took her to a little drag event at a 1/8 track near my house. best pass was an 8.3 @ 85mph. these et streets are awesome. clutch is starting to go out on me i think though..
Also today I hooked up the axxess steering wheel adaptor. Couple hickups but finally got it all working.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Apr 6, 2013 at 03:18 PM.
At 123k miles my Z was due for new rotors and a new set of pads. I decided to go ahead and degrease and clean up the calipers and refinish them in a fresh oem silver finish (Duplicolor Caliper Spray $7 at Advance Auto). Found that my drivers rear caliper was frozen open so luckily Advance Auto had a replacement. Got the calipers cleaned up, 3 thin coats of paint, installed the rotors then the calipers.
Tomorrow I will flush the entire system with new fluid (old fluid is brown and nasty), tighten everything up and enjoy my new brakes.
These are zinc coated Brake Motive rotors and will do until I go Akebono for my Z and I am excited to try them out. Out of all my research I did before getting them it seems like many people are happy with these rotors and for the price ($164 shipped for front and rear + pads) I cannot complain at all.
