What have you done for your Z today?
Took mine out of the garage for the first time since the last trackday. Front caliper is locked up , and the car is smoking very badly. Guess a quick caliper rebuild and another trackday is needed. I wonder if I can pop the motor.
Stock Nismo kit FTL
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Oct 15, 2013 at 04:52 AM.
A lot of smoke, been catless for years. Always got a small puff on start , now it smokes badly for 20 seconds. It started doing it after the last trackday.
sorry about crap pic, couldnt run and get a better one right now
Last edited by travlee; Oct 17, 2013 at 10:47 AM.
Got my RJM Clutch kit yesterday and installed it within a few hours. Messed around with the adjustments at 1am and then decided to leave it. Will tinker with it today.
I originally thought I liked very short pedal travel but after driving it I'm now used to the longer travel and having the clutch's initial friction point about 40-50% up, right where it naturally springs up so I don't have to plant my heel into the floor and modulate by pivoting at my ankle.
mini review: The install..a piece of cake. Just time consuming. There was nothing particularly difficult, I didn't get stuck on anything. The instructions were fairly clear except they were missing a few steps.. some things were common sense but the fact that it was missing made me also forget it.
But man, it would've helped tremendously and cut down on my install time quite a bit if there were more pictures. For visual people like myself, a few pictures can let me know exactly what to do than an entire paragraph. The most time consuming part was reading a long paragraph on a certain step, trying to comprehend what part the foreign terminology is referring to, how to relates to the install, tinkering it with, going back and reading it, looking at the picture, etc. etc. finally, LIGHT BULB goes off in head! Repeat about a million times.
I bet if one had the necessary tools all on hand, good lighting, and a simple 10 minute video in 1080p showing you EXACTLY what to do and replace, it would take about 30 minutes. Now that I've done it, I can probably do it in that time frame.
The clutch pedal is much lighter because i adjusted it that way, I also increased the modulation zone and made the pedal travel similar to stock. What it resulted in was a clutch that grabs about 3-4 inches off the floor and when it does, it doesn't JERK the car or shudder like it has a fever. It slowly creeps forward as you release the clutch and has a few more inches where it is "ON" or "grabbing". Basically, it got rid of that abrupt ON/OFF feel that the stock clutch has. Dont even get me started on a stage 2 clutch, this mod is a must for aftermarket clutches.
$250 well spent considering it'll make my everyday life easier.
No pictures sorry.
Question: Anyone know if it's harmful to the car to not have the clutch pedal upper switch? Mine is missing and for some reason, it's just a big bolt in place of it as a stopper. The switch is obviously unplugged. The reason for this I am guessing that the shop that replaced my master and slave for the clutch, ****ed it up. But I hadn't noticed any performance issue with it in the few weeks I've had it.
I originally thought I liked very short pedal travel but after driving it I'm now used to the longer travel and having the clutch's initial friction point about 40-50% up, right where it naturally springs up so I don't have to plant my heel into the floor and modulate by pivoting at my ankle.
mini review: The install..a piece of cake. Just time consuming. There was nothing particularly difficult, I didn't get stuck on anything. The instructions were fairly clear except they were missing a few steps.. some things were common sense but the fact that it was missing made me also forget it.
But man, it would've helped tremendously and cut down on my install time quite a bit if there were more pictures. For visual people like myself, a few pictures can let me know exactly what to do than an entire paragraph. The most time consuming part was reading a long paragraph on a certain step, trying to comprehend what part the foreign terminology is referring to, how to relates to the install, tinkering it with, going back and reading it, looking at the picture, etc. etc. finally, LIGHT BULB goes off in head! Repeat about a million times.
I bet if one had the necessary tools all on hand, good lighting, and a simple 10 minute video in 1080p showing you EXACTLY what to do and replace, it would take about 30 minutes. Now that I've done it, I can probably do it in that time frame.
The clutch pedal is much lighter because i adjusted it that way, I also increased the modulation zone and made the pedal travel similar to stock. What it resulted in was a clutch that grabs about 3-4 inches off the floor and when it does, it doesn't JERK the car or shudder like it has a fever. It slowly creeps forward as you release the clutch and has a few more inches where it is "ON" or "grabbing". Basically, it got rid of that abrupt ON/OFF feel that the stock clutch has. Dont even get me started on a stage 2 clutch, this mod is a must for aftermarket clutches.
$250 well spent considering it'll make my everyday life easier.
No pictures sorry.
Question: Anyone know if it's harmful to the car to not have the clutch pedal upper switch? Mine is missing and for some reason, it's just a big bolt in place of it as a stopper. The switch is obviously unplugged. The reason for this I am guessing that the shop that replaced my master and slave for the clutch, ****ed it up. But I hadn't noticed any performance issue with it in the few weeks I've had it.
Last edited by superstuddc27; Oct 17, 2013 at 11:14 AM.
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