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I'm getting a new transmission for free

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Old 05-06-2011, 07:23 PM
  #21  
davidv
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Originally Posted by This is eZ
Nah, I'm lookin at the flywheel, clutch, nismo pilot bearing and clutch line from that dude Kyle.
I looked at several clutch-flywheel, but $760 is difficult to beat. Go for it.
Old 05-06-2011, 09:15 PM
  #22  
SirSpeedyZ
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Got my tranny for free too

My car is no 07 though
Old 05-06-2011, 09:49 PM
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dcains
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Originally Posted by winchman
"When I'm at a drive-thru and can hear the sounds bounce of the wall, if I'm in neutral and take my foot off the clutch I can hear it spinning/whining. As I engage the clutch I hear the noise slow down and stop."

Those symptoms sound more like the clutch and flywheel noises than a bad transmission.
What??? Those noises, which may or may not be normal, can only be coming from the gearbox. With the clutch engaged (pedal out), even with the box in neutral, the input shaft of the gearbox is spinning, along with a bunch of other internal parts. With the clutch disengaged (pedal in) the gearbox stops spinning, which is why the noises go away.
Old 05-07-2011, 03:45 AM
  #24  
NyCSnEaK
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Take a look at the South Bend clutch and flywheel combo. Made specifically for the HR.
Old 05-07-2011, 05:23 AM
  #25  
winchman
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All the MT 350Zs I drove made noise when the car was sitting still in neutral with the clutch engaged (pedal up). Some of that noise is the dual-mass flywheel, and some of it is the throwout bearing (which is part of the clutch). The noise from the throwout bearing will go away when when you push the pedal down to disengage the clutch.

Granted, the transmission shaft is spinning when the clutch is engaged (pedal up) in neutral. Depending on the condition of the pilot bearing, the input shaft may continue to turn even when the clutch is disengaged (pedal down).

The Nissan guys must have listened to it with the car on a rack and determined the noises weren't the "normal" noises. What the OP described sounds like the normal noises, though.

I just hope the new transmission will fix things up for the OP.
Old 05-07-2011, 09:01 PM
  #26  
drivessidewayz
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Originally Posted by dcains
What??? Those noises, which may or may not be normal, can only be coming from the gearbox. With the clutch engaged (pedal out), even with the box in neutral, the input shaft of the gearbox is spinning, along with a bunch of other internal parts. With the clutch disengaged (pedal in) the gearbox stops spinning, which is why the noises go away.
It's a sound shared by most manual Z's as far as I can tell. The rattling to my best guess is mostly the throwout bearing hitting the fingers of the clutch from the vibrations and spinning shaft. The sound is not inside the transmission.

My reasoning behind this is that when i received my replacement, it came with a new bearing as well and everything was greased and ready to go. My rattling went away for a week or so, but slowly it's back just like before. Which suggests that the grease kept the bearing from vibrating as much as the previous one, but after a bit of driving the grease was relocated and the bearing is allowed to float freely as it did before.

And to answer the "what about clutch pushed in" question, if you understand how the entire assembly works, the throwout bearing pushes against the fingers in order to disengage the clutch at which point it is now wedged between the fork and the clutch fingers and is no longer allowed to vibrate as it did with the clutch engaged.

Last edited by drivessidewayz; 05-07-2011 at 09:02 PM.
Old 05-07-2011, 09:28 PM
  #27  
dcains
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You might be right about the TOB, but in my '08 with 43K it sure sounds like the typical sound of a spinning gearbox (not very loud at all, BTW), and I can feel the matching vibrations slightly through the shifter. Next time I've got the car off the ground I'll fish around with my stethoscope, just out of curiosity.

If it is the TOB you might be able to change the noise by varying how far down you push the clutch pedal. If the noise changes by just pushing the pedal slightly (so the gearbox is still spinning), that might indicate TOB noise.
Old 05-08-2011, 01:25 PM
  #28  
HK350 Z
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I have the same noise on my 2008,but I had read before I got the Z that all MT's make that noise...so i didnt think anything of it and i only hear it at drive-throughs.I will have my shop check it out before I go on my road trip in June...but I think its just part of owning a MT Z.
Old 05-08-2011, 01:50 PM
  #29  
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Those sounds are very much normal, i picked up my z used at 13k at 20 i got them to change the tranny because of a grind from 4th to 6th (if you do it quickly enough) it was a syncro problem. New tranny still makes those sounds and so do all other z's. Btw i have 07 base.

enjoy your new tranny, you will love the change, the gates are grand new and it changes gears like clock work
Old 05-24-2011, 01:17 PM
  #30  
This is eZ
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UPDATE: Dropped the car off this morning and just got a call from them. Everything was installed, but the clutch pedal won't come off the floor. They tried bleeding it, but didn't make a difference. They ordered me a new master cylinder under warranty that will arrive tomorrow.
Old 05-24-2011, 10:17 PM
  #31  
winchman
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I'm not liking the sound of this. You made no mention of having trouble with clutch actuation, and suddenly the master cylinder is completely inoperative with the new clutch and transmission installed.

Please keep us posted.
Old 05-25-2011, 04:41 AM
  #32  
doshoru
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Yeah...that sounds eerily like the clutch slave cylinder that plagued some of the 07's (which you have?). The strange thing is, you're saying it's a new transmission, and the CSC on the Z is actually inside the transmission...
Old 05-25-2011, 07:42 AM
  #33  
This is eZ
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Interesting, all the clutch/trans jobs I've done have been on my mustang, so I'm not very familiar with the hydraulic setup. Can you explain the jobs of the master vs. slave? Yes it is an 07. I have had problems with the pedal for some time now. Has dropped to the floor a few times over the years. Expecting a call from them any minute now.
Old 05-25-2011, 12:14 PM
  #34  
winchman
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OK, you didn't mention the earlier problems with the clutch pedal. That's a fairly common problem with the HR versions, and it's usually resolved by replacing the master and/or slave and bleeding the system correctly.

It sure would have been easier to replace the slave cylinder when they installed the new transmission. Maybe they did that and just didn't say anything about it. It's in the bell housing, so you can get to it without disassembling the the transmission itself, but you have to take it off the engine to get to it.

Go here for explanation of how the system operates:
http://www.zf.com/brands/content/en/...der_SACHS.html
Old 05-25-2011, 12:59 PM
  #35  
This is eZ
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Thanks. So just got off the phone with them. They said....This Z has been giving us a problem. They called some other tech at Nissan headquarters and was told that they need to order a special tool which will allow them to bleed the clutch in reverse. That confused me, but then I watched this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--...mbedded#at=352
So it makes sense to me, but why wouldn't they know this? And why wouldn't this just be the way to always do it? I'm really hoping it works because they said they might have to put in a stock clutch if this reverse bleeding doesn't work.
Old 05-25-2011, 01:21 PM
  #36  
doshoru
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I'm not exactly I follow what you/they are saying, but I'm imagining they're trying to find a way to bleed the slave w/o having to drop the transmission again? If the slave itself has failed, I don't think that will work. Find that TSB and make sure they know that it exists. May not be the problem, but it can't hurt....they could either be more clueless than me, or just trying to save a buck.

Last edited by doshoru; 05-25-2011 at 01:22 PM.
Old 05-25-2011, 09:29 PM
  #37  
winchman
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The procedure for bleeding the clutch hydraulic system should be the same for any clutch you install. None of the hydraulic system components are different and they're all in the same place.

The service manual for '07 spells out how to do it, but I don't know if the above-mentioned TSB changes the procedure. The dealer mechanics should know how to do this, and they should already have the correct equipment.

Going back to the OEM clutch will NOT solve their problems with bleeding the system. They probably failed to change the concentric slave cylinder when it would have been easy, and they're trying to keep from having to drop the transmission again.

One possible reason they may want to go back with the OEM clutch is that the load on the hydraulic system will be less, since the aftermarket clutch has a higher pedal pressure.

The problem I see with the hydraulic system is that there is a "high point" in the system that allows air to be trapped if you don't move the fluid through in just the right way. It's not much air, but it's enough to make the pedal spongy and keep the clutch from disengaging completely when you put the pedal to the floor.

The hydraulic clutch system in the 350Z is a real disappointment, and it should be an embarrassment to Nissan.

Last edited by winchman; 05-25-2011 at 09:32 PM.
Old 05-26-2011, 07:46 AM
  #38  
This is eZ
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I appreciate everyone's feedback. I'm nervously waiting for the phone call. Have you read what hardrocker said in this post?
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...not-bleed.html
Do you think that could be what's going on?
Old 05-26-2011, 12:04 PM
  #39  
winchman
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hardrocker is correct. If the pedal free play isn't adjusted correctly, the MC fill port will be blocked, making it impossible to bleed the clutch. Seems like any decent dealer mechanic, or at least the shop foreman, would know that.
Old 05-27-2011, 07:11 AM
  #40  
This is eZ
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Ok, got a voicemail this morning. They said the upgraded SS line I provided from the master to the slave was too short. They ordered a new line and will call me with the results.
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