AB_350Z

I am looking to buy a used 2003 350Z, 98,000 miles, the engine is bone stock, but it has JIC coil over, big ROTORA brake, Nismo diff, stage 3 carbonetic clutch, Nismo short shifter, 19 inches rims.
I have a few questions before I make him an offer
1- The VDC and SLIP light is on all the time and the owner said it is ON due to he changed the diff to Nismo LSD and that trigger those light. Is this true?
2- The Check Engine light is on and the owner claimed it is related to the NISMO diff changed as well. Is there a way to pull the code to see what the real problem is?
3- The car makes rattle noise (like a clutch ball bearing goes bad) while idle and the owner claimed it is normal with all stage 3 carbonetic clutch. The noise went away with the clutch pushed in. Anyone have this noise with stage 3 carbonetic clutch?
Please share your experience with me so I can join the 350Z club.....

pcressey

iTrader: (3)

1. *shrug* - search or wait for someone that knows.
2. I don't think an engine code is thrown for a differential unit, but you can go buy a OBD-II reader at an auto shop for $40 and pull the codes. You should have one anyway, they are handy. Reference any codes you pull to here: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...y-helpful.html
3. That noise is normal in every MT Z... with or without an aftermarket clutch. The car comes with a dampening flywheel to quiet it; put in an aftermarket flywheel and you can enjoy the noise even more.

RENFRO

iTrader: (1)

1. Not sure.
2. Advance auto will let you use a code reader for free.
3. Sound is normal

JCITY

iTrader: (2)

1-Are you sure you have a NISMO differential or,a differential COVER?
The guy may be telling you a story.On the slip problem,there should be some codes that could be read to give you an indication..why.I'd check your 19's
and the size tires on e'm.How far are they to the correct diameter specs?
If they are past the tolerance levels,you would get the slip message.
2-Check engine can mean ANYTHING.Got to a code check on this.Again,
NISMO DIFF??questionable.
3-How bad is the rattle?If slight,sounds normal to me.

AB_350Z

the owner is sure about the NISMO diff because he put it on himself and have the original diff for me as well. The back tires are 285/35/19 in size and they both very bald in need of new tires. The rattle can be heard from inside the car while idle which annoy me to hell while test drive the car, and the owner just put the new clutch on less than 5000 miles ago. Getting him to go get a code for me from that check engine light now

bwalk037

iTrader: (1)

If you are having this many issues before you buy the car...just think how many you will find out once you buy it! Just my $.02

sportbiketed

iTrader: (11)

Look for a different Z.

pcressey

iTrader: (3)

New tires will cost you $500-$600 depending... negotiate off the selling price. I run Hankook V12's 275/35/19 and they are just over $200 each, then add mounting and balancing.

The transmission noise should really not be all that noticeable to the extent that it would bother you... that much.

Vivid Racing

iTrader: (67)

As has been said already, I'd suggest either getting someone you TRUST who is very familiar with modified Z's to check the car, or move on.

The slight rattle w/ the clutch could be normal, or it could be a throwout bearing going out. "Slight rattle" is subjective, so it's hard to tell over the internet. Definitely negotiate the cost of tires off of the asking price. Most auto parts stores will read codes free of charge. See if you can have him meet you at a parts store to get the codes pulled. Look them up online to find out what they are.

JCITY

iTrader: (2)

At 2nd thought,if you do have a NISMO DIFF...is it the same gear ratio?
I could seem to find any specs on this.All I found is that its way beefed up,
has features,adjustable etc.If the ratio is much difference,this would really screw up the VDC.The car would have to be "retought"...reprogram.

Lot of miles too,I'd may want skip on this one...future headaches$$$$

TPete19

iTrader: (15)

1. The slip light is most likely due to an incorrect ratio between the front and rears tires.
2. Just go to get the code read. It is very unlikely that it is due to the differential swap (more like I've never heard of this throwing a CEL).
3. Clutch noise is normal. Go drive another Z or two and you'll be able to learn what the common amount of noise should be.

If it were me, I'd pass on this car (unless the price was crazy low). Seems like the owner doesn't care enough about his car to have it maintained correctly.

Always remember when you are shopping for a car that there are thousands of them around. No need to jump into a sale yo are not comfortable with.

midz350

iTrader: (4)

What do you mean by stage 3 carbonetic clutch?

Is it Carbonetics triple clutch?

tquill

iTrader: (15)

+1

Especially considering about half the error lights on the dash are lit. I know he has an excuse for each of them... but still.