Looking to start modding(any advice)
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 4
From: Long Island, New York
Definitely do agree with the fact that modding a Z will be tremendously expensive. Luckily, I bought my 03' Touring Z with a number of mods that I would have done. So it saved me a lot time and money. When I bought mine back in November, I already had an exhaust, lowering springs, plenum spacer, aem intake (I converted to jwt popcharger), fatter tires (245/45) [F] and(275/45) [R], and many more cosmetic upgrades too. Bought it at 77k miles and just hit 81k recently. As far as mods, my goals are to make a full bolt and tuned Z. My plans for bolt on include MREV2 intake manifold, Kinetix V+ performance plenum, NWP Throttle Body, larger MAF housing, Stillen Headers, and then uprev osiris tune to top it off. Looking to drop at least $2k in it and I'm sure i'll run into a lot of headaches. But for a higher mileage Z, definitely take care of the maintenance first. Fluid swaps, spark plugs, etc. But best thing to do is do tons of research on the car before you pull the trigger on any mods. There's my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Definitely do agree with the fact that modding a Z will be tremendously expensive. Luckily, I bought my 03' Touring Z with a number of mods that I would have done. So it saved me a lot time and money. When I bought mine back in November, I already had an exhaust, lowering springs, plenum spacer, aem intake (I converted to jwt popcharger), fatter tires (245/45) [F] and(275/45) [R], and many more cosmetic upgrades too. Bought it at 77k miles and just hit 81k recently. As far as mods, my goals are to make a full bolt and tuned Z. My plans for bolt on include MREV2 intake manifold, Kinetix V+ performance plenum, NWP Throttle Body, larger MAF housing, Stillen Headers, and then uprev osiris tune to top it off. Looking to drop at least $2k in it and I'm sure i'll run into a lot of headaches. But for a higher mileage Z, definitely take care of the maintenance first. Fluid swaps, spark plugs, etc. But best thing to do is do tons of research on the car before you pull the trigger on any mods. There's my 2 cents.
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,315
Likes: 3,378
From: Northern California
WARNING/DISCLAIMER: PREACHY AND LONG POST (but I tend to think it's worth reading - not because I wrote it, laff.... 
- but because I tried to impart my own mod experience into it (and along with that, the "mistakes I made" incorporated by reference. And yes, I've made a few. 
Well, since no one has said it yet - amongst all the good recommendations - guess I'll stick my nose in with my usual commentary on mods...
IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO YET.... consider DRIVING SCHOOL. This is the only MOD that IS transferable from your present Z to ANY other car you own or drive (including rental cars).
Edit: Just noticed that Z1NONLY said that same thing in fewer words. He types faster too. Heh heh.
But it's not just about going faster - it is about going faster SMARTER. It also gives you the skills and abilities to RECOGNIZE what needs to be changed out to make it truly YOUR CAR.
This next statement is NOT self aggrandizement at all but... I went to driving schools eons ago and it has helped me to properly plan out the mods on my cars which have resulted in cost savings over the years and I honestly know that I don't NEED a lot of the mods that are popular because the Z chassis and drivetrain are pretty damm good out of the box.
My mantra has always been "When you (yourself) can drive the (or any) car to at least 80% of ITS capabilities, then you can honestly add things that will push the limits of the car higher, hence challenging you as a driver, and, more importantly, really appreciate what and why you did it."
Personally, I'm a handling-over-horsepower guy and while I totally get and respect having 500+ ponies under the hood, for what most do on a daily or weekend basis, suspension is where I believe one needs to start. I'm the first one to ADMIT that I probably would use all 500whp - if I had it - about once a year.
-----------------------------------------
That all said, when you do start to make modifications to your car, here's a logical (not always fun nor viscerally or visibly satisfying but makes sense) and rated from top to bottom by "value per dollar" spent (rated as such to plan your mod-sheet over time):
1. Plan it all out according to budget and use over time.
2. Tires - the single most important "upgrade" as they are what maintains your contact with the ground. They are also what ALL suspension mods are based arouind - to keep them on the ground properly. Springs, shocks, sway bars, alignment gear are there to control what your tires are doing. Buy the best you can afford for your intended purpose.
3. Proper alignment - granted, there's only a couple of things you can do with stock suspension, toe and a little bit of caster. But, you can truly feel the difference before and after IF it was off and then corrected. Plus, you want to do this to save your new tires. And yes, you will be doing this step after each mod step, below.
4. Anti-sway bars - this is the ONE mod I'd put over ANY other suspension hardware modification because it is the one that you can FEEL in everyday driving, on every curve or turn that you take.
5. Shocks & Springs - At this point, you might want to consider lowering the car. Springs (or coilovers if you insist) are warranted with proper shocks to keep the springs in check. There are highly capable shock/spring set-ups that can meet your needs. Good, up-to-date thread on this here. <===Linked, not an advertisement. If you truly NEED adjustable height, jounce and rebound control, there are tons of threads on coilovers as well.
If, after this step, you've lowered it more than about .5-1.0", you might (and highly recommend it) need to add alignment adjustability. Adjustable UCAs up front, adjustable camber rods, toe adjusters, out back, etc. But if you are conservative, you probably won't notice too much alignment out-of-whack with a traditional suspension setup with minimal lowering. That's also covered in the linked thread, above.
6. Lighter wheels - weight loss is your friend. Unsprung weight removed from every corner of your car results in "lively" handling that you can feel. It also allows the above modifications to truly live up to the advertised gains of adding performance gear.
Should note that you can do this modification when you do #2 - tires - of course. And that would be the best time from a cost perspective (saving on mount/balance/alignment another time and of course, the cost of wheels) but stock alloys are pretty decent and not horrendously heavy. As a matter of fact, since yours is a Track trim, you already have the "best" stock wheels one can have, the Track V.1s at sub-20# so you can definitely wait to do this as to buy anything lighter than these, say, RPF-1s, will be a pretty big investment, at ~$1200+ new.
7. Rear gearing - at this point, and assuming you have the car and driver dialed in - but before engine mods - consider a 3.9 or 4.08 gear set to improve acceleration and get the engine up to and stay in the power band when you hit the windy roads or track (or pylon course as it were).
After doing all of the above AND you are now at the 80% capability level of the now incredibly well handling car, you're an awesome driver, heh heh.
But seriously, THEN you can think about power mods - forced induction, cams, exhaust, etc. and know that such power additions will be put to good use and you'll truly be getting the power to the ground.
Sorry so long but this is something that needs to be complete to be truly understood and appreciated - and can help you to prepare a blueprint for your future car if the present one isn't doing it for you.
Cheers,
Mic
PS Oh, and welcome aboard.
- but because I tried to impart my own mod experience into it (and along with that, the "mistakes I made" incorporated by reference. And yes, I've made a few. Well, since no one has said it yet - amongst all the good recommendations - guess I'll stick my nose in with my usual commentary on mods...
IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO YET.... consider DRIVING SCHOOL. This is the only MOD that IS transferable from your present Z to ANY other car you own or drive (including rental cars).
Edit: Just noticed that Z1NONLY said that same thing in fewer words. He types faster too. Heh heh.
But it's not just about going faster - it is about going faster SMARTER. It also gives you the skills and abilities to RECOGNIZE what needs to be changed out to make it truly YOUR CAR.
This next statement is NOT self aggrandizement at all but... I went to driving schools eons ago and it has helped me to properly plan out the mods on my cars which have resulted in cost savings over the years and I honestly know that I don't NEED a lot of the mods that are popular because the Z chassis and drivetrain are pretty damm good out of the box.
My mantra has always been "When you (yourself) can drive the (or any) car to at least 80% of ITS capabilities, then you can honestly add things that will push the limits of the car higher, hence challenging you as a driver, and, more importantly, really appreciate what and why you did it."
Personally, I'm a handling-over-horsepower guy and while I totally get and respect having 500+ ponies under the hood, for what most do on a daily or weekend basis, suspension is where I believe one needs to start. I'm the first one to ADMIT that I probably would use all 500whp - if I had it - about once a year.
-----------------------------------------
That all said, when you do start to make modifications to your car, here's a logical (not always fun nor viscerally or visibly satisfying but makes sense) and rated from top to bottom by "value per dollar" spent (rated as such to plan your mod-sheet over time):
1. Plan it all out according to budget and use over time.
2. Tires - the single most important "upgrade" as they are what maintains your contact with the ground. They are also what ALL suspension mods are based arouind - to keep them on the ground properly. Springs, shocks, sway bars, alignment gear are there to control what your tires are doing. Buy the best you can afford for your intended purpose.
3. Proper alignment - granted, there's only a couple of things you can do with stock suspension, toe and a little bit of caster. But, you can truly feel the difference before and after IF it was off and then corrected. Plus, you want to do this to save your new tires. And yes, you will be doing this step after each mod step, below.
4. Anti-sway bars - this is the ONE mod I'd put over ANY other suspension hardware modification because it is the one that you can FEEL in everyday driving, on every curve or turn that you take.
5. Shocks & Springs - At this point, you might want to consider lowering the car. Springs (or coilovers if you insist) are warranted with proper shocks to keep the springs in check. There are highly capable shock/spring set-ups that can meet your needs. Good, up-to-date thread on this here. <===Linked, not an advertisement. If you truly NEED adjustable height, jounce and rebound control, there are tons of threads on coilovers as well.
If, after this step, you've lowered it more than about .5-1.0", you might (and highly recommend it) need to add alignment adjustability. Adjustable UCAs up front, adjustable camber rods, toe adjusters, out back, etc. But if you are conservative, you probably won't notice too much alignment out-of-whack with a traditional suspension setup with minimal lowering. That's also covered in the linked thread, above.
6. Lighter wheels - weight loss is your friend. Unsprung weight removed from every corner of your car results in "lively" handling that you can feel. It also allows the above modifications to truly live up to the advertised gains of adding performance gear.
Should note that you can do this modification when you do #2 - tires - of course. And that would be the best time from a cost perspective (saving on mount/balance/alignment another time and of course, the cost of wheels) but stock alloys are pretty decent and not horrendously heavy. As a matter of fact, since yours is a Track trim, you already have the "best" stock wheels one can have, the Track V.1s at sub-20# so you can definitely wait to do this as to buy anything lighter than these, say, RPF-1s, will be a pretty big investment, at ~$1200+ new.
7. Rear gearing - at this point, and assuming you have the car and driver dialed in - but before engine mods - consider a 3.9 or 4.08 gear set to improve acceleration and get the engine up to and stay in the power band when you hit the windy roads or track (or pylon course as it were).
After doing all of the above AND you are now at the 80% capability level of the now incredibly well handling car, you're an awesome driver, heh heh.
But seriously, THEN you can think about power mods - forced induction, cams, exhaust, etc. and know that such power additions will be put to good use and you'll truly be getting the power to the ground.
Sorry so long but this is something that needs to be complete to be truly understood and appreciated - and can help you to prepare a blueprint for your future car if the present one isn't doing it for you.
Cheers,
Mic
PS Oh, and welcome aboard.
Last edited by MicVelo; Apr 27, 2015 at 07:54 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Greer, sc
I wish moderators when they see these post... "First time z owner" "looking to mod first time".. It's clogging up the raw posts that actually have good information in them for people that actually search... It's like people have never used the internet before or a search engine.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
I wish moderators when they see these post... "First time z owner" "looking to mod first time".. It's clogging up the raw posts that actually have good information in them for people that actually search... It's like people have never used the internet before or a search engine.
thank you for your time on posting though. I do appreciate it
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
WARNING/DISCLAIMER: PREACHY AND LONG POST (but I tend to think it's worth reading - not because I wrote it, laff.... - but because I tried to impart my own mod experience into it (and along with that, the "mistakes I made" incorporated by reference. And yes, I've made a few.
Well, since no one has said it yet - amongst all the good recommendations - guess I'll stick my nose in with my usual commentary on mods...
IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO YET.... consider DRIVING SCHOOL. This is the only MOD that IS transferable from your present Z to ANY other car you own or drive (including rental cars).
Edit: Just noticed that Z1NONLY said that same thing in fewer words. He types faster too. Heh heh.
But it's not just about going faster - it is about going faster SMARTER. It also gives you the skills and abilities to RECOGNIZE what needs to be changed out to make it truly YOUR CAR.
This next statement is NOT self aggrandizement at all but... I went to driving schools eons ago and it has helped me to properly plan out the mods on my cars which have resulted in cost savings over the years and I honestly know that I don't NEED a lot of the mods that are popular because the Z chassis and drivetrain are pretty damm good out of the box.
My mantra has always been "When you (yourself) can drive the (or any) car to at least 80% of ITS capabilities, then you can honestly add things that will push the limits of the car higher, hence challenging you as a driver, and, more importantly, really appreciate what and why you did it."
Personally, I'm a handling-over-horsepower guy and while I totally get and respect having 500+ ponies under the hood, for what most do on a daily or weekend basis, suspension is where I believe one needs to start. I'm the first one to ADMIT that I probably would use all 500whp - if I had it - about once a year.
-----------------------------------------
That all said, when you do start to make modifications to your car, here's a logical (not always fun nor viscerally or visibly satisfying but makes sense) and rated from top to bottom by "value per dollar" spent (rated as such to plan your mod-sheet over time):
1. Plan it all out according to budget and use over time.
2. Tires - the single most important "upgrade" as they are what maintains your contact with the ground. They are also what ALL suspension mods are based arouind - to keep them on the ground properly. Springs, shocks, sway bars, alignment gear are there to control what your tires are doing. Buy the best you can afford for your intended purpose.
3. Proper alignment - granted, there's only a couple of things you can do with stock suspension, toe and a little bit of caster. But, you can truly feel the difference before and after IF it was off and then corrected. Plus, you want to do this to save your new tires. And yes, you will be doing this step after each mod step, below.
4. Anti-sway bars - this is the ONE mod I'd put over ANY other suspension hardware modification because it is the one that you can FEEL in everyday driving, on every curve or turn that you take.
5. Shocks & Springs - At this point, you might want to consider lowering the car. Springs (or coilovers if you insist) are warranted with proper shocks to keep the springs in check. There are highly capable shock/spring set-ups that can meet your needs. Good, up-to-date thread on this here. <===Linked, not an advertisement. If you truly NEED adjustable height, jounce and rebound control, there are tons of threads on coilovers as well.
If, after this step, you've lowered it more than about .5-1.0", you might (and highly recommend it) need to add alignment adjustability. Adjustable UCAs up front, adjustable camber rods, toe adjusters, out back, etc. But if you are conservative, you probably won't notice too much alignment out-of-whack with a traditional suspension setup with minimal lowering. That's also covered in the linked thread, above.
6. Lighter wheels - weight loss is your friend. Unsprung weight removed from every corner of your car results in "lively" handling that you can feel. It also allows the above modifications to truly live up to the advertised gains of adding performance gear.
Should note that you can do this modification when you do #2 - tires - of course. And that would be the best time from a cost perspective (saving on mount/balance/alignment another time and of course, the cost of wheels) but stock alloys are pretty decent and not horrendously heavy. As a matter of fact, since yours is a Track trim, you already have the "best" stock wheels one can have, the Track V.1s at sub-20# so you can definitely wait to do this as to buy anything lighter than these, say, RPF-1s, will be a pretty big investment, at ~$1200+ new.
7. Rear gearing - at this point, and assuming you have the car and driver dialed in - but before engine mods - consider a 3.9 or 4.08 gear set to improve acceleration and get the engine up to and stay in the power band when you hit the windy roads or track (or pylon course as it were).
After doing all of the above AND you are now at the 80% capability level of the now incredibly well handling car, you're an awesome driver, heh heh.
But seriously, THEN you can think about power mods - forced induction, cams, exhaust, etc. and know that such power additions will be put to good use and you'll truly be getting the power to the ground.
Sorry so long but this is something that needs to be complete to be truly understood and appreciated - and can help you to prepare a blueprint for your future car if the present one isn't doing it for you.
Cheers,
Mic
PS Oh, and welcome aboard.
- but because I tried to impart my own mod experience into it (and along with that, the "mistakes I made" incorporated by reference. And yes, I've made a few. Well, since no one has said it yet - amongst all the good recommendations - guess I'll stick my nose in with my usual commentary on mods...
IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO YET.... consider DRIVING SCHOOL. This is the only MOD that IS transferable from your present Z to ANY other car you own or drive (including rental cars).
Edit: Just noticed that Z1NONLY said that same thing in fewer words. He types faster too. Heh heh.
But it's not just about going faster - it is about going faster SMARTER. It also gives you the skills and abilities to RECOGNIZE what needs to be changed out to make it truly YOUR CAR.
This next statement is NOT self aggrandizement at all but... I went to driving schools eons ago and it has helped me to properly plan out the mods on my cars which have resulted in cost savings over the years and I honestly know that I don't NEED a lot of the mods that are popular because the Z chassis and drivetrain are pretty damm good out of the box.
My mantra has always been "When you (yourself) can drive the (or any) car to at least 80% of ITS capabilities, then you can honestly add things that will push the limits of the car higher, hence challenging you as a driver, and, more importantly, really appreciate what and why you did it."
Personally, I'm a handling-over-horsepower guy and while I totally get and respect having 500+ ponies under the hood, for what most do on a daily or weekend basis, suspension is where I believe one needs to start. I'm the first one to ADMIT that I probably would use all 500whp - if I had it - about once a year.
-----------------------------------------
That all said, when you do start to make modifications to your car, here's a logical (not always fun nor viscerally or visibly satisfying but makes sense) and rated from top to bottom by "value per dollar" spent (rated as such to plan your mod-sheet over time):
1. Plan it all out according to budget and use over time.
2. Tires - the single most important "upgrade" as they are what maintains your contact with the ground. They are also what ALL suspension mods are based arouind - to keep them on the ground properly. Springs, shocks, sway bars, alignment gear are there to control what your tires are doing. Buy the best you can afford for your intended purpose.
3. Proper alignment - granted, there's only a couple of things you can do with stock suspension, toe and a little bit of caster. But, you can truly feel the difference before and after IF it was off and then corrected. Plus, you want to do this to save your new tires. And yes, you will be doing this step after each mod step, below.
4. Anti-sway bars - this is the ONE mod I'd put over ANY other suspension hardware modification because it is the one that you can FEEL in everyday driving, on every curve or turn that you take.
5. Shocks & Springs - At this point, you might want to consider lowering the car. Springs (or coilovers if you insist) are warranted with proper shocks to keep the springs in check. There are highly capable shock/spring set-ups that can meet your needs. Good, up-to-date thread on this here. <===Linked, not an advertisement. If you truly NEED adjustable height, jounce and rebound control, there are tons of threads on coilovers as well.
If, after this step, you've lowered it more than about .5-1.0", you might (and highly recommend it) need to add alignment adjustability. Adjustable UCAs up front, adjustable camber rods, toe adjusters, out back, etc. But if you are conservative, you probably won't notice too much alignment out-of-whack with a traditional suspension setup with minimal lowering. That's also covered in the linked thread, above.
6. Lighter wheels - weight loss is your friend. Unsprung weight removed from every corner of your car results in "lively" handling that you can feel. It also allows the above modifications to truly live up to the advertised gains of adding performance gear.
Should note that you can do this modification when you do #2 - tires - of course. And that would be the best time from a cost perspective (saving on mount/balance/alignment another time and of course, the cost of wheels) but stock alloys are pretty decent and not horrendously heavy. As a matter of fact, since yours is a Track trim, you already have the "best" stock wheels one can have, the Track V.1s at sub-20# so you can definitely wait to do this as to buy anything lighter than these, say, RPF-1s, will be a pretty big investment, at ~$1200+ new.
7. Rear gearing - at this point, and assuming you have the car and driver dialed in - but before engine mods - consider a 3.9 or 4.08 gear set to improve acceleration and get the engine up to and stay in the power band when you hit the windy roads or track (or pylon course as it were).
After doing all of the above AND you are now at the 80% capability level of the now incredibly well handling car, you're an awesome driver, heh heh.
But seriously, THEN you can think about power mods - forced induction, cams, exhaust, etc. and know that such power additions will be put to good use and you'll truly be getting the power to the ground.
Sorry so long but this is something that needs to be complete to be truly understood and appreciated - and can help you to prepare a blueprint for your future car if the present one isn't doing it for you.
Cheers,
Mic
PS Oh, and welcome aboard.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Greer, sc
I have an 05 z de... Bought it at 90k miles currently at 150k... Daily driven... Full exhaust minus headers
Intake, intake spacer, jwt clutch and flywheel.. I drove it up to Dynosty (home of 1000hp z)... To get dyno tuned... It was hitting the knock sensor at 220hp... To much air not enough fuel... After tune 255hp 245tq with 15% correction. Drivability is crisp at any rpm and mpg increased.
I ran a 14 flat at 100mph in the quarter with a soft 2.2 open diff street tires... Drag radials and quaife diff mid 13 sec car...
My advice to you would be in this order... Pay car off first if on a loan... Maintenance... Make a goal that is realistic... Not everyone can throw 10 of thousands at there car every month... Be humble and don't take what you have for granted...There will always be someone faster or has more money to blow..
You will never get out what you put in... So mod wisely, modified cars don't sell well unless documented and inspected.
Last edited by Toneloc; Apr 27, 2015 at 10:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Since you answered respectfully, I'll give you my 2 cents for whatever it is worth. .
I have an 05 z de... Bought it at 90k miles currently at 150k... Daily driven... Full exhaust minus headers
Intake, intake spacer, jwt clutch and flywheel.. I drove it up to Dynosty (home of 1000hp z)... To get dyno tuned... It was hitting the knock sensor at 220hp... To much air not enough fuel... After tune 255hp 245tq with 15% correction. Drivability is crisp at any rpm and mpg increased.
I ran a 14 flat at 100mph in the quarter with a soft 2.2 open diff street tires... Drag radials and quaife diff mid 13 sec car...
My advice to you would be in this order... Pay car off first if on a loan... Maintenance... Make a goal that is realistic... Not everyone can throw 10 of thousands at there car every month... Be humble and don't take what you have for granted...There will always be someone faster or has more money to blow..
You will never get out what you put in... So mod wisely, modified cars don't sell well unless documented and inspected.
I have an 05 z de... Bought it at 90k miles currently at 150k... Daily driven... Full exhaust minus headers
Intake, intake spacer, jwt clutch and flywheel.. I drove it up to Dynosty (home of 1000hp z)... To get dyno tuned... It was hitting the knock sensor at 220hp... To much air not enough fuel... After tune 255hp 245tq with 15% correction. Drivability is crisp at any rpm and mpg increased.
I ran a 14 flat at 100mph in the quarter with a soft 2.2 open diff street tires... Drag radials and quaife diff mid 13 sec car...
My advice to you would be in this order... Pay car off first if on a loan... Maintenance... Make a goal that is realistic... Not everyone can throw 10 of thousands at there car every month... Be humble and don't take what you have for granted...There will always be someone faster or has more money to blow..
You will never get out what you put in... So mod wisely, modified cars don't sell well unless documented and inspected.
New Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 65
From: Fort Walton Beach, Florida
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
New Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 22,798
Likes: 829
From: Alberta
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: bradenton florida
So wait a minute here, are you guys telling this guy that intake, headers and exhaust and tune is not worth it???
Thats about 50whp gain.
225whp stock, 275whp bolt-ons/ tune, so yeah it will make a difference, but maintaining the car is first priority, but that should be common sense.
Thats about 50whp gain.
225whp stock, 275whp bolt-ons/ tune, so yeah it will make a difference, but maintaining the car is first priority, but that should be common sense.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 22,798
Likes: 829
From: Alberta
So wait a minute here, are you guys telling this guy that intake, headers and exhaust and tune is not worth it???
Thats about 50whp gain.
225whp stock, 275whp bolt-ons/ tune, so yeah it will make a difference, but maintaining the car is first priority, but that should be common sense.
Thats about 50whp gain.
225whp stock, 275whp bolt-ons/ tune, so yeah it will make a difference, but maintaining the car is first priority, but that should be common sense.
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,892
Likes: 277
From: arizona
So wait a minute here, are you guys telling this guy that intake, headers and exhaust and tune is not worth it???
Thats about 50whp gain.
225whp stock, 275whp bolt-ons/ tune, so yeah it will make a difference, but maintaining the car is first priority, but that should be common sense.
Thats about 50whp gain.
225whp stock, 275whp bolt-ons/ tune, so yeah it will make a difference, but maintaining the car is first priority, but that should be common sense.
Hell a turbo kit for our car is like 10k. I can find a turbo kit for various different platform for about 5k. Reality is, the vq is pretty well tuned from the factory and leaves little for improvement. Ask anyone who has built their car, in the end, they end up droping big coins for little gains.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Greer, sc
If you want gains go buy a ws6 gto mustang... Bolt on heads and cam make 350 to 400hp... Then you will have to spend 2 3k in your rear end to hold the power axles, LSD gears, etc... On top of gm and fords crappy reliability... I bought a z for there looks and reliability... If I wanted a mundane sports car that everyone else has modified if get one.... The z is a platform with people that have taste... After you spend all the money on a nav8 you could boost the z and not touch the rear end and cost the same.
Or go pay 400 500$ a month on a used 20k sports car...
I'd rather keep my z clean modify slowly when engine craps out another one in... And take the 5k for a 1000rr CBR raw na power lol
Or go pay 400 500$ a month on a used 20k sports car...
I'd rather keep my z clean modify slowly when engine craps out another one in... And take the 5k for a 1000rr CBR raw na power lol
So thats what? About 3-4k worth of mods? (New name brand mods) for 50 hp? Go to another platform and drop 3-4k worth of mod and see if you dont see double that gain.
Hell a turbo kit for our car is like 10k. I can find a turbo kit for various different platform for about 5k. Reality is, the vq is pretty well tuned from the factory and leaves little for improvement. Ask anyone who has built their car, in the end, they end up droping big coins for little gains.
Hell a turbo kit for our car is like 10k. I can find a turbo kit for various different platform for about 5k. Reality is, the vq is pretty well tuned from the factory and leaves little for improvement. Ask anyone who has built their car, in the end, they end up droping big coins for little gains.
Last edited by Toneloc; Apr 27, 2015 at 01:49 PM.
He's trying to catch your post count.
Last edited by blue06z; Apr 27, 2015 at 02:37 PM.