Tires/rims stolen off my Z.. what now?
09-29-2015, 06:52 PM
#21
Registered User
Sorry for the crap luck. Stock 18s are cheap on craigslist so I would get a set and put them on for the time being. I had to tow a brand new Murano with 1000 miles on it because someone stole all the wheels. At least they left yours on some blocks. This one wasnt so lucky. The dealership was nice though and brought a bunch of spares over so I didn't have to drag that **** on the rotors.
..Get insurance to send you a check and get some nice aftermarket wheels....
09-30-2015, 07:12 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thank you all for the replies and suggestions. I really appreciate the support. This has been so crappy. But everyone I've spoken with (insurance, appraiser, tire shop, towing company) have been incredibly helpful.
I was lucky that they left it on the cement blocks, though the appraiser said there may be some damage to the underside and told me to take some pictures of it after its back on wheels and send them over to him if I see any.
Ended up having the tire shop order me some Enkei rpf1s and sumitomo tires with wheel locks. I contacted the tow company they work with and they offered to go pick up the wheels/tires for me and bring them to my car and install it all for me for nothing more than the cost of the tow ($75) and labor ($20). The only thing that concerns me is whether or not they'll be able to install the TPMS sensors, or whether I'll have to take it in to get that done.
And to prevent this from happening again in the future, my girlfriend convinced our leasing office to comp us a garage for the remainder of our lease, after which it'll be added to our rent.
Anyways.. Excited for tomorrow to come and the tires/wheels to arrive and get installed so I can get back on the road.
thanks again all!
I was lucky that they left it on the cement blocks, though the appraiser said there may be some damage to the underside and told me to take some pictures of it after its back on wheels and send them over to him if I see any.
Ended up having the tire shop order me some Enkei rpf1s and sumitomo tires with wheel locks. I contacted the tow company they work with and they offered to go pick up the wheels/tires for me and bring them to my car and install it all for me for nothing more than the cost of the tow ($75) and labor ($20). The only thing that concerns me is whether or not they'll be able to install the TPMS sensors, or whether I'll have to take it in to get that done.
And to prevent this from happening again in the future, my girlfriend convinced our leasing office to comp us a garage for the remainder of our lease, after which it'll be added to our rent.
Anyways.. Excited for tomorrow to come and the tires/wheels to arrive and get installed so I can get back on the road.
thanks again all!
09-30-2015, 07:17 AM
#23
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Glad to hear things are working out on your claim. One item to be wary of: when the towing company puts on your new Enkeis, they may or may not have a torque wrench. Using more than 85/ft-lbs. may cause warped rotors and other complications. Be sure to ask about this!
09-30-2015, 07:31 AM
#24
Registered User
Torqueing pass 85ft may cause warp rotors??? How can that be? If you dont mind explaining it, I'm very interested in this concept. Never heard of that before.
09-30-2015, 07:48 AM
#26
New Member
Why has the OP not come back?
09-30-2015, 08:01 AM
#28
The driver doesnt want you calling back saying your tire fell off and they get a big damage claim so if they are like me they put thoss lug nut on as tight as humanly possible. Or as tight as the impact is willing to go. If you want your wheels torqued down to 80 ft lbs you better do it yourself...
Tow company is quick to offer to bring your wheels and put them on because their is no way to tow a car without wheels without significant risk of damage. Best case scenario is they strap wood onto your control arms and slide your car into the truck on the boards. Chances of that going smoothly are slim and they would make you sign a damage waiver so when it goes wrong they are not held liable. If your car was in a public roadway with no tires and wheels they would just drag your car on the bed and destroy your bumpers exhaust control arms brakes and whatever else made contact with the ground and will tell you to take it up with the city.
Last edited by dboyzalter; 09-30-2015 at 08:04 AM.
09-30-2015, 08:13 AM
#31
New Member
I'd get some Enkei and RS3
And 5 different wheel locks
And 5 different wheel locks
09-30-2015, 08:55 AM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm sure I could've gotten more, but it's my fault for spilling in my talks with the appraiser that I was leaning toward getting some Enkei rpf1s instead of oem replacements. My girlfriend suggested I get the oem replacements instead, as she's most concerned with eventual trade-in value. But I think it's too late for that. :/
I'm not opposed to paying the $1000 necessary for the enkei's and tires. I just want my z back on the road.
09-30-2015, 08:55 AM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
09-30-2015, 09:50 AM
#34
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
It's why I torque my wheels (both street and track) to the minimum torque required (85-ft/lbs) and have never lost a wheel or had warped rotors as a result. Over-torqueing is also a ***** when you find someone had a big breaker bar or air wrench, and torqued SOME of the lugs down to 130-ft/lbs or more AND you have a flat you're trying to change with the small OEM wrench...
09-30-2015, 03:28 PM
#35
Registered User
This situation sucks though. Unless as someone pointed out you do use the ferry, I think that the alarm is a good idea.
09-30-2015, 04:32 PM
#36
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
In an oversimplification...
True "rotor warpage" - as measured by radial runout of the disc - is the result of over- or uneven-torquing of the lug nuts. (I'll get back to this in a sec...)
But here's the thing; in the truest sense of the word "warped", there's almost no such thing as a truly warped or "bent" disc. The other myth to be debunked is that it is heat that warps a rotor. Not quite true either. Heat CONTRIBUTES to the pulsations/juddering in the pedal but very rarely does it actually warp the rotor. I emphasize "very rarely" because rotors CAN and DO warp but it's less likely to be the cause of the problem.
That vibration or juddering or other unsavory feelings under braking is "more likely" the build up of brake material or hot spots on the rotor. Both conditions which can lead to the catch all diagnosis known as "warped rotors".
That said, what causes this? I said I'd get back to the first point... here: Go back to my first point about the incorrect torque and/or uneven torque of the wheels to the hub. If the torque is too high or uneven, this causes the rotor to ride unevenly on the hub - however minute - and when the brakes are applied, the pads run up and down the high and low spots -or what are simply called "waves" of the rotor. This causes a lot of undue heat, especially at high operating temps (high speed, racing, etc.) causing the pad to wear and transfer excessive deposits to the rotors, further exacerbating the judder felt through the pedal and steering wheel (in the case of front brakes).
When the tech runs the dial gauge across the rotor to measure for trueness, the disparity from the inner edge of the wear surface to the outer circumferential edge often leads to the "mis-diagnosis" as warpage. The friction material deposits - not often visible - can throw off the diagnosis.
Secondarily, this uneven running of the rotors also causes heat spots on the rotor that manifests itself in the build up of iron nodules on the face of the rotor. Again, not visible to the naked eye but enough to cause the juddering ref'd above.
The quick diagnosis by most shops is "warped rotors" that must be replaced.
What I have seen/done in the shop is far simpler. First consider how long the rotors have been on the car and how it's been driven. Lots of street driving? Mostly freeway driving? Track usage, etc.
If the dial gauge reading reveals the disparity and the rotor is still within tolerance to take couple thousandths cut, cut the rotors as normal, make sure the hub mounting surface is undamaged (also a possibility with over-, uneven-torque), install the wheels, and hand tighten to "snug" with a socket wrench, in a star pattern, then torque to spec following the same star pattern. ALWAYS let the torque wrench do the final 10 pounds or so. ALWAYS. Re-check torque after initial test drive and then again, after about 50 miles. 8 of 10 times that did the trick, simple.
I've saved customers lots of money being honest about it rather than taking the low (but more profitable) road of just replacing the rotors. (In a shop that amounts to lots of profit! 40% on parts alone and labor - as determined by whatever guide is being used to quote it... AllData, etc.
There is a LOT more detail to this than what's above. A LOT more. Things like molecular adhesion, coefficient of friction, etc that I won't get into as I'm not writing a thesis.
If you want to know more though, it's all out there, easily accessible from the all knowing Da Google.
Hope this helps. Sorry for the off-topicness of this but you asked.
Don't judge me, T'bo. Not even silently.
Mic
PS 1/2" drive torque wrenches can be had for as little as $15-20. Good enough for the occasional mechanic. Every person that wrenches their own car has NO excuse to NOT have one in the tool cabinet.
Last edited by MicVelo; 09-30-2015 at 04:36 PM.
09-30-2015, 04:37 PM
#37
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
WARNING: THIS IS WAAAAAAYYYY OFF TOPIC BUT MIGHT HELP - and since T'bo asked....
In an oversimplification...
True "rotor warpage" - as measured by radial runout of the disc - is the result of over- or uneven-torquing of the lug nuts. (I'll get back to this in a sec...)
But here's the thing; in the truest sense of the word "warped", there's almost no such thing as a truly warped or "bent" disc. The other myth to be debunked is that it is heat that warps a rotor. Not quite true either. Heat CONTRIBUTES to the pulsations/juddering in the pedal but very rarely does it actually warp the rotor. I emphasize "very rarely" because rotors CAN and DO warp but it's less likely to be the cause of the problem.
That vibration or juddering or other unsavory feelings under braking is "more likely" the build up of brake material or hot spots on the rotor. Both conditions which can lead to the catch all diagnosis known as "warped rotors".
That said, what causes this? I said I'd get back to the first point... here: Go back to my first point about the incorrect torque and/or uneven torque of the wheels to the hub. If the torque is too high or uneven, this causes the rotor to ride unevenly on the hub - however minute - and when the brakes are applied, the pads run up and down the high and low spots -or what are simply called "waves" of the rotor. This causes a lot of undue heat, especially at high operating temps (high speed, racing, etc.) causing the pad to wear and transfer excessive deposits to the rotors, further exacerbating the judder felt through the pedal and steering wheel (in the case of front brakes).
When the tech runs the dial gauge across the rotor to measure for trueness, the disparity from the inner edge of the wear surface to the outer circumferential edge often leads to the "mis-diagnosis" as warpage. The friction material deposits - not often visible - can throw off the diagnosis.
Secondarily, this uneven running of the rotors also causes heat spots on the rotor that manifests itself in the build up of iron nodules on the face of the rotor. Again, not visible to the naked eye but enough to cause the juddering ref'd above.
The quick diagnosis by most shops is "warped rotors" that must be replaced.
What I have seen/done in the shop is far simpler. First consider how long the rotors have been on the car and how it's been driven. Lots of street driving? Mostly freeway driving? Track usage, etc.
If the dial gauge reading reveals the disparity and the rotor is still within tolerance to take couple thousandths cut, cut the rotors as normal, make sure the hub mounting surface is undamaged (also a possibility with over-, uneven-torque), install the wheels, and hand tighten to "snug" with a socket wrench, in a star pattern, then torque to spec following the same star pattern. ALWAYS let the torque wrench do the final 10 pounds or so. ALWAYS. Re-check torque after initial test drive and then again, after about 50 miles. 8 of 10 times that did the trick, simple.
I've saved customers lots of money being honest about it rather than taking the low (but more profitable) road of just replacing the rotors. (In a shop that amounts to lots of profit! 40% on parts alone and labor - as determined by whatever guide is being used to quote it... AllData, etc.
There is a LOT more detail to this than what's above. A LOT more. Things like molecular adhesion, coefficient of friction, etc that I won't get into as I'm not writing a thesis.
If you want to know more though, it's all out there, easily accessible from the all knowing Da Google.
Hope this helps. Sorry for the off-topicness of this but you asked.
Don't judge me, T'bo. Not even silently.
Mic
PS BTW, this is nothing new.... I learned all this stuff by listening to the "old guys" in the shop.... 35+ years ago. Heh heh....
In an oversimplification...
True "rotor warpage" - as measured by radial runout of the disc - is the result of over- or uneven-torquing of the lug nuts. (I'll get back to this in a sec...)
But here's the thing; in the truest sense of the word "warped", there's almost no such thing as a truly warped or "bent" disc. The other myth to be debunked is that it is heat that warps a rotor. Not quite true either. Heat CONTRIBUTES to the pulsations/juddering in the pedal but very rarely does it actually warp the rotor. I emphasize "very rarely" because rotors CAN and DO warp but it's less likely to be the cause of the problem.
That vibration or juddering or other unsavory feelings under braking is "more likely" the build up of brake material or hot spots on the rotor. Both conditions which can lead to the catch all diagnosis known as "warped rotors".
That said, what causes this? I said I'd get back to the first point... here: Go back to my first point about the incorrect torque and/or uneven torque of the wheels to the hub. If the torque is too high or uneven, this causes the rotor to ride unevenly on the hub - however minute - and when the brakes are applied, the pads run up and down the high and low spots -or what are simply called "waves" of the rotor. This causes a lot of undue heat, especially at high operating temps (high speed, racing, etc.) causing the pad to wear and transfer excessive deposits to the rotors, further exacerbating the judder felt through the pedal and steering wheel (in the case of front brakes).
When the tech runs the dial gauge across the rotor to measure for trueness, the disparity from the inner edge of the wear surface to the outer circumferential edge often leads to the "mis-diagnosis" as warpage. The friction material deposits - not often visible - can throw off the diagnosis.
Secondarily, this uneven running of the rotors also causes heat spots on the rotor that manifests itself in the build up of iron nodules on the face of the rotor. Again, not visible to the naked eye but enough to cause the juddering ref'd above.
The quick diagnosis by most shops is "warped rotors" that must be replaced.
What I have seen/done in the shop is far simpler. First consider how long the rotors have been on the car and how it's been driven. Lots of street driving? Mostly freeway driving? Track usage, etc.
If the dial gauge reading reveals the disparity and the rotor is still within tolerance to take couple thousandths cut, cut the rotors as normal, make sure the hub mounting surface is undamaged (also a possibility with over-, uneven-torque), install the wheels, and hand tighten to "snug" with a socket wrench, in a star pattern, then torque to spec following the same star pattern. ALWAYS let the torque wrench do the final 10 pounds or so. ALWAYS. Re-check torque after initial test drive and then again, after about 50 miles. 8 of 10 times that did the trick, simple.
I've saved customers lots of money being honest about it rather than taking the low (but more profitable) road of just replacing the rotors. (In a shop that amounts to lots of profit! 40% on parts alone and labor - as determined by whatever guide is being used to quote it... AllData, etc.
There is a LOT more detail to this than what's above. A LOT more. Things like molecular adhesion, coefficient of friction, etc that I won't get into as I'm not writing a thesis.
If you want to know more though, it's all out there, easily accessible from the all knowing Da Google.
Hope this helps. Sorry for the off-topicness of this but you asked.
Don't judge me, T'bo. Not even silently.
Mic
PS BTW, this is nothing new.... I learned all this stuff by listening to the "old guys" in the shop.... 35+ years ago. Heh heh....
09-30-2015, 05:27 PM
#38
I got a torque wrench for like $10 at harbor freight. I wouldn't use it to put together an engine but it works fine for the lug nuts. Dont use it at work though they get as tight as humanly possible. Well actually as tight as the 20volt impact will get them then I check to make sure I cant move them.
09-30-2015, 05:46 PM
#39
Registered User
WARNING: THIS IS WAAAAAAYYYY OFF TOPIC BUT MIGHT HELP - and since T'bo asked....
In an oversimplification...
True "rotor warpage" - as measured by radial runout of the disc - is the result of over- or uneven-torquing of the lug nuts. (I'll get back to this in a sec...)
But here's the thing; in the truest sense of the word "warped", there's almost no such thing as a truly warped or "bent" disc. The other myth to be debunked is that it is heat that warps a rotor. Not quite true either. Heat CONTRIBUTES to the pulsations/juddering in the pedal but very rarely does it actually warp the rotor. I emphasize "very rarely" because rotors CAN and DO warp but it's less likely to be the cause of the problem.
That vibration or juddering or other unsavory feelings under braking is "more likely" the build up of brake material or hot spots on the rotor. Both conditions which can lead to the catch all diagnosis known as "warped rotors".
That said, what causes this? I said I'd get back to the first point... here: Go back to my first point about the incorrect torque and/or uneven torque of the wheels to the hub. If the torque is too high or uneven, this causes the rotor to ride unevenly on the hub - however minute - and when the brakes are applied, the pads run up and down the high and low spots -or what are simply called "waves" of the rotor. This causes a lot of undue heat, especially at high operating temps (high speed, racing, etc.) causing the pad to wear and transfer excessive deposits to the rotors, further exacerbating the judder felt through the pedal and steering wheel (in the case of front brakes).
When the tech runs the dial gauge across the rotor to measure for trueness, the disparity from the inner edge of the wear surface to the outer circumferential edge often leads to the "mis-diagnosis" as warpage. The friction material deposits - not often visible - can throw off the diagnosis.
Secondarily, this uneven running of the rotors also causes heat spots on the rotor that manifests itself in the build up of iron nodules on the face of the rotor. Again, not visible to the naked eye but enough to cause the juddering ref'd above.
The quick diagnosis by most shops is "warped rotors" that must be replaced.
What I have seen/done in the shop is far simpler. First consider how long the rotors have been on the car and how it's been driven. Lots of street driving? Mostly freeway driving? Track usage, etc.
If the dial gauge reading reveals the disparity and the rotor is still within tolerance to take couple thousandths cut, cut the rotors as normal, make sure the hub mounting surface is undamaged (also a possibility with over-, uneven-torque), install the wheels, and hand tighten to "snug" with a socket wrench, in a star pattern, then torque to spec following the same star pattern. ALWAYS let the torque wrench do the final 10 pounds or so. ALWAYS. Re-check torque after initial test drive and then again, after about 50 miles. 8 of 10 times that did the trick, simple.
I've saved customers lots of money being honest about it rather than taking the low (but more profitable) road of just replacing the rotors. (In a shop that amounts to lots of profit! 40% on parts alone and labor - as determined by whatever guide is being used to quote it... AllData, etc.
There is a LOT more detail to this than what's above. A LOT more. Things like molecular adhesion, coefficient of friction, etc that I won't get into as I'm not writing a thesis.
If you want to know more though, it's all out there, easily accessible from the all knowing Da Google.
Hope this helps. Sorry for the off-topicness of this but you asked.
Don't judge me, T'bo. Not even silently.
Mic
PS 1/2" drive torque wrenches can be had for as little as $15-20. Good enough for the occasional mechanic. Every person that wrenches their own car has NO excuse to NOT have one in the tool cabinet.
In an oversimplification...
True "rotor warpage" - as measured by radial runout of the disc - is the result of over- or uneven-torquing of the lug nuts. (I'll get back to this in a sec...)
But here's the thing; in the truest sense of the word "warped", there's almost no such thing as a truly warped or "bent" disc. The other myth to be debunked is that it is heat that warps a rotor. Not quite true either. Heat CONTRIBUTES to the pulsations/juddering in the pedal but very rarely does it actually warp the rotor. I emphasize "very rarely" because rotors CAN and DO warp but it's less likely to be the cause of the problem.
That vibration or juddering or other unsavory feelings under braking is "more likely" the build up of brake material or hot spots on the rotor. Both conditions which can lead to the catch all diagnosis known as "warped rotors".
That said, what causes this? I said I'd get back to the first point... here: Go back to my first point about the incorrect torque and/or uneven torque of the wheels to the hub. If the torque is too high or uneven, this causes the rotor to ride unevenly on the hub - however minute - and when the brakes are applied, the pads run up and down the high and low spots -or what are simply called "waves" of the rotor. This causes a lot of undue heat, especially at high operating temps (high speed, racing, etc.) causing the pad to wear and transfer excessive deposits to the rotors, further exacerbating the judder felt through the pedal and steering wheel (in the case of front brakes).
When the tech runs the dial gauge across the rotor to measure for trueness, the disparity from the inner edge of the wear surface to the outer circumferential edge often leads to the "mis-diagnosis" as warpage. The friction material deposits - not often visible - can throw off the diagnosis.
Secondarily, this uneven running of the rotors also causes heat spots on the rotor that manifests itself in the build up of iron nodules on the face of the rotor. Again, not visible to the naked eye but enough to cause the juddering ref'd above.
The quick diagnosis by most shops is "warped rotors" that must be replaced.
What I have seen/done in the shop is far simpler. First consider how long the rotors have been on the car and how it's been driven. Lots of street driving? Mostly freeway driving? Track usage, etc.
If the dial gauge reading reveals the disparity and the rotor is still within tolerance to take couple thousandths cut, cut the rotors as normal, make sure the hub mounting surface is undamaged (also a possibility with over-, uneven-torque), install the wheels, and hand tighten to "snug" with a socket wrench, in a star pattern, then torque to spec following the same star pattern. ALWAYS let the torque wrench do the final 10 pounds or so. ALWAYS. Re-check torque after initial test drive and then again, after about 50 miles. 8 of 10 times that did the trick, simple.
I've saved customers lots of money being honest about it rather than taking the low (but more profitable) road of just replacing the rotors. (In a shop that amounts to lots of profit! 40% on parts alone and labor - as determined by whatever guide is being used to quote it... AllData, etc.
There is a LOT more detail to this than what's above. A LOT more. Things like molecular adhesion, coefficient of friction, etc that I won't get into as I'm not writing a thesis.
If you want to know more though, it's all out there, easily accessible from the all knowing Da Google.
Hope this helps. Sorry for the off-topicness of this but you asked.
Don't judge me, T'bo. Not even silently.
Mic
PS 1/2" drive torque wrenches can be had for as little as $15-20. Good enough for the occasional mechanic. Every person that wrenches their own car has NO excuse to NOT have one in the tool cabinet.
Extreme silent judgement. Haha thank mic! I have a better understanding now. Going to have to call david (dkmura) tomorrow when i get the chance and go in full detail.
