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After i finish my build with 600whp daily drive/drift build,
i would have spent total of 10k once i pull my motor and trans and sell that off I would have spent a total of about 9k.
I can even turn up the boost higher for 700whp if i want but i hear eagle rods can only handle about 750hp and my max i want for my z is 600 for drifting.
turboed350z make sure you have that high performance shop on speed dial to answer some of my questions, they might offer free advice for you since you paid $35,000 dollars for 400whp
Like Everything else in life, if someone has to brag, and bring attention to it, theyre not really about that life.
This is basically some poor punk save up for 3 years to buy a use rolex submariner and claiming to everyone how rich he is because hes rocking a rolex....
The people who are true to the lifestyle, finds no need to brag about it. Real recognizes real and a gearhead will be able to identify a fellow gearheads.
The fakes are obvious, they always look for validation, always out trying to prove how theyre not fake, which in turns, proves nothing, other than the fact theyre fake.
I am the type of guy who researches and makes sure i have every dime upfront before i start a project. I am not the type of guy who jumps into a project and runs out of money and ends up having their car sit for years (yes i know many guys like this)
I laugh also at the kids with full bolt ons that i see at the shops running on the dynos from 230 to 265whp for their g35 or 350z.....placebo effect all that money spent and i bet they wont feel much of anything. More money than brains.
for me 230whp to 400whp is weak **** i probably wont feel much of a difference i dont believe its worth my money.
I want to go from 230 to 600whp which is almost 3x the amount of power. I think I will feel a huge difference and know I got my moneys worth. That is just prudent thinking.
Last edited by Justin100; Jan 5, 2016 at 08:06 PM.
I looked around the forums cannot seem to find a diy for front upper control arms that is clear I saw the one for spl install that was fairly informative but doesn't list all the tools needed to remove the stock front upper control arms and replace it with aftermarket front upper control arms. I have stillen after front upper control arms BTW.
what do you think is a better idea for me to balance my crankshaft or not? and why?
Yes balance your camshaft.
what do you think is the ideal bore for my block .20 over or .40 or sleeve the block with darton sleeves?
De or hr? I dont think ive have seen anyone bored an hr but a few de. Why would you bore out the vq35? Its already a bored version of another engine. Get a stroker kit.
If I wanted 700 whp should i do a standalone or piggyback ecu?
Stand alone. Piggy back is rarely odeal at this power range
what do you think would be good for a twin turbo setup should i do a ar 63 or a ar82 on the hot side?
63 might be too small for 700hp, but doable. The 82 will increase lag, your choice.
yeah your right i did ask questions about that and travlee like usual was no help. I was abl e to figure it out myself.
i closed my thread because after hearing your ignorant comments about me and the cops i just felt well, my thread is probably going to get hijacked by trav and turboed350z like usual so f7ck it. I want to enjoy my build in peace and quiet and not deal with turds. I don't have to share my knowledge out in public let alone my build if i dont want to especially to a bunch of people who cannot appreciate it.
yeah your right i did ask questions about that and travlee like usual was no help. I was abl e to figure it out myself.
i closed my thread because after hearing your ignorant comments about me and the cops i just felt well, my thread is probably going to get hijacked by trav and turboed350z like usual so f7ck it. I want to enjoy my build in peace and quiet and not deal with turds. I don't have to share my knowledge out in public let alone my build if i dont want to especially to a bunch of people who cannot appreciate it.
if i remember correctly, i told you what you needed. did you ever clean your seats?
various sockets and wrenches is not an adequate answer that is very broad answer.....i have encountered issues where I had to run to autozone to get a special tool to remove certain parts off the car....
so you didnt know how to remove control arms, but you are building an engine
i knew how to remove it i just wasnt sure if it was going to be different size sockets or different size crescent wrenches.
i personally dont want a shop to do it for me. its too expensive to start, and they only offer 1 year warranty. that means if your car blows up after the 1 year warranty and your a dunst like turboed350z you would end up selling the car because you dont know how to solve the problem.
kyle from importpartspro even said on this forum how some idiots turned the boost too high and try to blame his shop when they messed up by putting too much power on the block lol.
their are guys on this forum, who had people build their engines and it blew up after 4 years........i know guys with evo motors with 700-900hp motors built by a shop and still blew up......
basically its a joke to have a shop do it. I'd rather do it myself since i have so many resources and am very mechanically inclined. if something breaks after a few years, i'll pull the motor and fix it myself.
Last edited by Justin100; Jan 6, 2016 at 05:32 AM.
what do you think is a better idea for me to balance my crankshaft or not? and why?
Yes balance your camshaft.
what do you think is the ideal bore for my block .20 over or .40 or sleeve the block with darton sleeves?
De or hr? I dont think ive have seen anyone bored an hr but a few de. Why would you bore out the vq35? Its already a bored version of another engine. Get a stroker kit.
If I wanted 700 whp should i do a standalone or piggyback ecu?
Stand alone. Piggy back is rarely odeal at this power range
what do you think would be good for a twin turbo setup should i do a ar 63 or a ar82 on the hot side?
63 might be too small for 700hp, but doable. The 82 will increase lag, your choice.
usually when you pull a high mileage engine your going to see some scuffing on the cylinder walls and rust spots people usually opt for a .20 overbore so it looks like clean and new and functions properly without any issues.
ar63 is perfect for 700hp if your going to run a PT5558 dual turbos each good for 580hp to have short spool times. but then again some people dont mind seeing boost later in the rpm band because if they daily drive their car around they want to protect the motor so they want the boost to kick in much later so they stick with a ar82.
the reason as to why you balance your crankshaft, is because your new forged rods and pistons are completely a different weight than your stock rods and pistons, therefore if you don't balance it, you'll more than like spin a bearing and f7ck up your crankshaft at high rpm revving. and you'll feel really bad vibrations when driving and can potentially seize the entire engine and cause catastrophic damage.
the reason why you want to run a standalone at high hp power is because the fact that all the functions get routed to 1 box is going to relay a much faster response electronically. if you use a piggyback that is attached to a factory ecu that just adds another complication because the electronics now have to communicate back and forth between the factory ecu and piggyback ecu which in turn can be a problem with poor and choppy throttle response.
i am not even going to bother picking your brain.....i already feel sorry for you 35k for 400whp........
if i wanted to spend 35k on my z i would aim for 1000 hp.
darton sleeves
bc stroke kit
head job viton seals, ferrea valves, some nice 272 cams.......
twin turbo kit - 67mm ball bearing turbos
cd009 tranny with a triple disk clutch
level 5 driveshafts
haltech standalone or motec
Last edited by Justin100; Jan 6, 2016 at 06:07 AM.
usually when you pull a high mileage engine your going to see some scuffing on the cylinder walls and rust spots people usually opt for a .20 overbore so it looks like clean and new and functions properly without any issues.
ar63 is perfect for 700hp if your going to run a PT5558 dual turbos each good for 580hp to have short spool times.
the reason as to why you balance your crankshaft, is because your new forged rods and pistons are completely a different weight than your stock rods and pistons, therefore if you don't balance it, you'll more than like spin a bearing and f7ck up your crankshaft at high rpm revving. and you'll feel really bad vibrations when driving and can potentially seize the entire engine and cause catastrophic damage.
i am not even going to bother picking your brain.....i already feel sorry for you 35k for 400whp........
if i wanted to spend 35k on my z i would aim for 1000 hp.
darton sleeves
bc stroke kit
head job viton seals, ferrea valves, some nice 272 cams.......
twin turbo kit - 67mm ball bearing turbos
cd009 tranny with a triple disk clutch
level 5 driveshafts
So youre telling me people bore their engine for looks??? Wow isnt that stupid.... probably the dumbest thing youve said on here.
Like i said, the 63 M8GHT be small, but the 82 WILL have lag, that will be up to you. If you have done your research, you would know that the 350z is a ***** to hook up off the line, some people actually WANT lag so they dont spin all the way down the 1/4.
I told you to balance it, the reason varies. If youre us8ng stock cams, yes your reasoning is correct, if youre going after market cam, they STILL need to be balance due to the fact that they are imbalance from the manufacturer.
As far as me spending 35k on my car, who said all of it was for power? I dont have a small dick, i dont feel inferior to other men and try to have a high power monster i cant control.
Fact is, moat people cant handle anything above 500whp and rarely can the average modders be able to use all 400whp to its full potential. Whats the point of 700whp if youre only using 300? Sounds like someone is compensating for something.
My car is the PERFECT street car for me, and i spent 35k to do it. It has looks, it has performance, it has handling, it has a nice sound system, it has a wicked exhaust for when i dont want music. Its perfect for me. Its perfect for my needs.
Ask ANYONE who has built their 350z, the turbo kit alone is around 10k. Just for the turbo. Add in a 2k clutch kit, add in suspension, add in guages and tuning and youll be close to 20k for PERFORMANCE ALONE. Then add in a few items for looks and bam, 35k is the average cost.
Hell there are members you have spent 50-85k for around 600whp, and their cars are SICK. Point in case, al and his star dust 350z is at 400whp and he spent well over 35k for sure.
Bcan(i think i spelt his name wrong) spent like 85k and hes at 600whp, yet he went to sema.
If i wanted a high hp 1/4 killer, i wouldve bought a z06 or a hellcat and boost the crap out of it.
Sounds like youre jealous you dont have 35k to built your cars to your perfection. If we were to park our cars back to back, i gurantee mine will draw more attention and nice comments from EVERYONE than yours would.
So youre telling me people bore their engine for looks??? Wow isnt that stupid.... probably the dumbest thing youve said on here.
Like i said, the 63 M8GHT be small, but the 82 WILL have lag, that will be up to you. If you have done your research, you would know that the 350z is a ***** to hook up off the line, some people actually WANT lag so they dont spin all the way down the 1/4.
I told you to balance it, the reason varies. If youre us8ng stock cams, yes your reasoning is correct, if youre going after market cam, they STILL need to be balance due to the fact that they are imbalance from the manufacturer.
As far as me spending 35k on my car, who said all of it was for power? I dont have a small dick, i dont feel inferior to other men and try to have a high power monster i cant control.
Fact is, moat people cant handle anything above 500whp and rarely can the average modders be able to use all 400whp to its full potential. Whats the point of 700whp if youre only using 300? Sounds like someone is compensating for something.
My car is the PERFECT street car for me, and i spent 35k to do it. It has looks, it has performance, it has handling, it has a nice sound system, it has a wicked exhaust for when i dont want music. Its perfect for me. Its perfect for my needs.
Ask ANYONE who has built their 350z, the turbo kit alone is around 10k. Just for the turbo. Add in a 2k clutch kit, add in suspension, add in guages and tuning and youll be close to 20k for PERFORMANCE ALONE. Then add in a few items for looks and bam, 35k is the average cost.
Hell there are members you have spent 50-85k for around 600whp, and their cars are SICK. Point in case, al and his star dust 350z is at 400whp and he spent well over 35k for sure.
Bcan(i think i spelt his name wrong) spent like 85k and hes at 600whp, yet he went to sema.
If i wanted a high hp 1/4 killer, i wouldve bought a z06 or a hellcat and boost the crap out of it.
Sounds like youre jealous you dont have 35k to built your cars to your perfection. If we were to park our cars back to back, i gurantee mine will draw more attention and nice comments from EVERYONE than yours would.
OMG..... do you know what a crankshaft is?
this is a crankshaft.....
this is a camshaft....
what i am talking about is CRANKshaft balancing.........
their this thing its called shopping around. you dont necessarily have to buy everything brand spanking new.
I have bought plenty of things for my car from this forum that were at rock bottom discounted prices that were quality made pieces most of it brand new some used but barely used i do my due diligence to check for wear on items I have never had issues.
The fact that I am doing the engine build myself saves me $$$ on labor. Like i said, my entire build to 600-700whp is going to cost me 10k minus 1k = 9k after i sell my motor and trans off once i pull it out.
Last edited by Justin100; Jan 7, 2016 at 07:56 AM.
