I need you guys opinion.
05-21-2017, 09:28 AM
#1
I need you guys opinion.
Hi, I own 06 z in Canada, and i need some input from you guys here.
I have purchased set of reman akebono calipers and was installing yesterday. And problem pop is, driver side caliper thread where banjo bolt bolts in is stripped. (not me) I did contact the site i bought it from and the reman company, but i know it will be headache to get it fixed.
I have seen some people fixing it with helicoil, but i am pretty sure all the aluminum shaving wont be good in side caliper as well. what is my best option here? go with pro rebuilding shop?
I have purchased set of reman akebono calipers and was installing yesterday. And problem pop is, driver side caliper thread where banjo bolt bolts in is stripped. (not me) I did contact the site i bought it from and the reman company, but i know it will be headache to get it fixed.
I have seen some people fixing it with helicoil, but i am pretty sure all the aluminum shaving wont be good in side caliper as well. what is my best option here? go with pro rebuilding shop?
05-21-2017, 10:10 AM
#2
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
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Your best option is to send it back for a replacement. A shop will have no other choice than to tap threads if it's stripped, and that's not an area you want any possibility of a leak.
Last edited by dkmura; 05-21-2017 at 03:38 PM.
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jzk91 (05-22-2017)
05-22-2017, 06:04 AM
#3
I had a similar problem with a used set of OEM Brembos but it involved the bleed screws not the brake line attachment.
I purchased a tap and die set from Harbor Freight and tapped them myself. There is a thread here somewhere regarding how I did this step-by-step. I had no experience with this sort of thing prior to this. I just took my time, did a ton of research and went slow. Had to do this on about 5 of the bleed screws. It worked fine.
As far as aluminum shavings, I used cutting compound to control them and then blew the caliper out repeatedly with compressed air (after securing pistons).
Your situation is a little different since it is the brake line inlet. Same principle though. If the threads are just buggered up a little then just chase them out with the proper sized tap and reconnect. If the threads are gone you'll have to find the next size up that will fit. That might be tricky.
I searched garages, brake shops and machinists all over town and even tried the Nissan dealership (since they were OEM). No one would touch them. So you may have a hard time getting someone to do this work for you.
So, unless you are willing to take a chance and do the work yourself (understanding that you could ruin the caliper completely) then I'd send it back. If you can't send it back see if someone will do the work for you, but as mentioned, it might be hard to find someone, especially since the liability for doing it wrong would be quite high.
Which brings me to the final point: If you do this yourself you have to meticulously, methodically and incrementally check to make sure you have no leaks as the potential cost of failure is huge. I pumped my brakes repeatedly while stationary and wheels off to make sure no leaks. Then let it sit. Then did it again. Then I drove it in a controlled environment with normal and hard braking. Removed wheels and checked again. Then checked again after a few days of daily driving. Checked again before first track day.
That's been about a year and at least 6 track weekends. No leaks.
I purchased a tap and die set from Harbor Freight and tapped them myself. There is a thread here somewhere regarding how I did this step-by-step. I had no experience with this sort of thing prior to this. I just took my time, did a ton of research and went slow. Had to do this on about 5 of the bleed screws. It worked fine.
As far as aluminum shavings, I used cutting compound to control them and then blew the caliper out repeatedly with compressed air (after securing pistons).
Your situation is a little different since it is the brake line inlet. Same principle though. If the threads are just buggered up a little then just chase them out with the proper sized tap and reconnect. If the threads are gone you'll have to find the next size up that will fit. That might be tricky.
I searched garages, brake shops and machinists all over town and even tried the Nissan dealership (since they were OEM). No one would touch them. So you may have a hard time getting someone to do this work for you.
So, unless you are willing to take a chance and do the work yourself (understanding that you could ruin the caliper completely) then I'd send it back. If you can't send it back see if someone will do the work for you, but as mentioned, it might be hard to find someone, especially since the liability for doing it wrong would be quite high.
Which brings me to the final point: If you do this yourself you have to meticulously, methodically and incrementally check to make sure you have no leaks as the potential cost of failure is huge. I pumped my brakes repeatedly while stationary and wheels off to make sure no leaks. Then let it sit. Then did it again. Then I drove it in a controlled environment with normal and hard braking. Removed wheels and checked again. Then checked again after a few days of daily driving. Checked again before first track day.
That's been about a year and at least 6 track weekends. No leaks.
Last edited by N80; 05-22-2017 at 06:07 AM.
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jzk91 (05-22-2017)
05-22-2017, 07:01 AM
#4
Thank you for input guys.
Yes i think returning it and get the replacement part will be the best option,but if that doesn't work out, i guess will have to the repair myself like N80 said. i am waiting for the response from company at the moment and hopefully they are good with costumer service.
Yes i think returning it and get the replacement part will be the best option,but if that doesn't work out, i guess will have to the repair myself like N80 said. i am waiting for the response from company at the moment and hopefully they are good with costumer service.
05-23-2017, 02:55 PM
#5
New Member
If you do the repair yourself, do it on a bench, and get the pistons out of the caliper before you start drilling or tapping by using compressed air to pop them out (give them a rag or some kind of padding to shoot into.) After you do that, THEN go ahead and use a helicoil brake kit. You won't need to be worried about metal shavings being trapped in the cylinder that way. Just clean everything up before putting parts back together.
I used to rebuild calipers all the time back in the 1980s and 1990s, when rebuilds were more or less routine things to do on a car and caliper rebuild kits were basically run-of-the-mill parts.
I used to rebuild calipers all the time back in the 1980s and 1990s, when rebuilds were more or less routine things to do on a car and caliper rebuild kits were basically run-of-the-mill parts.
05-23-2017, 04:02 PM
#6
Definitely work on a bench. This is not work to be done on the car. I do not remember why I decided not to go with helicoil. May have been cost for the kit? Not sure.
On the Brembos removing and replacing the pistons was easy. Just the piston and a seal. Not sure about Akebonos.
On the Brembos removing and replacing the pistons was easy. Just the piston and a seal. Not sure about Akebonos.
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