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Car when into limp mode while my wife was driving it. She made a stop to store, got in, was in limp mode. Only thing she noticed was when she got out as she was walking away with car off, the rear wiper swiped twice.
Got a SES, SLIP, TCS off and in limp mode at next start up.
Stored codes were p1212, p1610, p1614, u1001, u1000 and p1124. I cleared them and now only get a P1124 at start up intermittently. I can clear and restart without code, and after restarting a few times it comes back.
I can clear code and it drives fine. Only prob at start up.
It has been raining.....oh and my wife was driving it, but lets not talk about that.
Whenever I run into a new problem I try to review any recent changes. That's a lot of codes, might wanna ck all your engine harnesses and grounds for solid connections.
It sounds like you may have gotten water in your IPDM and it interfered with your throttle control motor relay. This is just my guess. Check your battery compartment for water. Open the cover on your IPMD and look for water..
Atreyu'z 350 is the winner. Took apart the IPDM and its wet. Real wet. I will post pix of the process, there are layers of plates that water can sit in. I pulled all the relays and fuses and you will see how it is impossible to dry out on its own.
Atreyu'z 350 is the winner. Took apart the IPDM and its wet. Real wet. I will post pix of the process, there are layers of plates that water can sit in. I pulled all the relays and fuses and you will see how it is impossible to dry out on its own.
Disconnect your negative terminal on your battery during this whole process too.
We are way beyond disconnecting the battery. Here are the pix of the IPDM.
First thing I noticed is it has drain holes at the bottom, so I figured it would be downhill from there.
This panel is designed in layers.
So that's about it. I ordered 3 new relays because these are not sealed and I figured that they likely had water inside or were wet and are now dry. I can't figure out why a company like Nissan would not have this waterproof. I live in Florida. It rains here.
I will check in once its back together.
I notices water in the backing panel and corrosion where the fuses call home.
I noticed water in the backing panel and corrosion where the fuses call home.
Wet backside of IPDM face
This panel is designed in layers.
once you split the 3 layers apart, you will see that there was water in between each layer.
the first layer has punch down wires. kinda good considering if there is a bad wire, it can be repaired pretty easy.
Finally, you can see that water was living in the relays, particularly the throttle body relay, which is what was causing the TCS and SLIP light.
So does being 'way beyond disconnecting the battery' mean that you've disconnected your battery BEFORE you started pulling fuses/relays and disassembling your IPDM?
Yup. Pulled battery out of car to be able to flip IPDM over to get to connectors. Once IPDM was out, I removed fuses and relays and took it apart. I recommend taking a picture so one would know how to put it back together.
Also, I disassembled the relays and saw that they did get much water penetrating the pins inside of the relay. I bought 3 cheap so Ill replace, but probably didn't need to do that.
Yes and no. I removed all the relays and cleaned the pin ends. Then I put them back, but I would be really surprised if the TB relay was put in the same place that I took it out.
DO you mean this relay? The TB responds once I clear the code and can drive it for hours without problem as long as I do not restart the car. When I do, I clear the code and drive without issue. I may put TPDM and see if the wire circuit is broken in the backside of the panel, because I am sure the relay is fine. It is waterproof and the one that is in the TB place is probably a different one anyhow.
Yes and no?.. I'm talking about this relay. The Throttle Control Motor Relay. I would replace it WITH A NEW ONE. It's throwing the P1124 because it most likely shorted out when it got drenched. Replace it. It's the next logical step here..
I tested the relay with another one. they each have the correct Resistance of @190ohms on the diagonal legs. Each relay has the same specs, so I dont think it the relay.
I tested the wires going from the tpdm to the ecm and both are fine with no short to ground. also tested the wires from ecm to the tb and those are fine with no short to ground.
I'm thinking there is an internal short in the ecm throwing the code.
also tested the pins in tpdm to fuse and to the connector to the ecm harness (F8) resistance is correct for those pins and no short to ground or short to another relay or fuse anywhere on tpdm.
SO the update is that I sent the ECM to Module Experts in Jacksonville and they called me 5 days later, said they couldn't fix it and offered to sell me a refurb for $450. Personally, I don't think they even checked it and tried to scam me. They are owned by National Parts and have a bad reputation for this type of behavior. I didn't check them out, my bad.
I went on Ebay and bought one for $85 shipped with a 6 month Assurian warranty. Threw it in, programmed the key, and all fixed.
It is clear that there was a short to ground in the ECM that gave a false open circuit making the unit think the relay was open. That is where the P1124 comes from.
Be careful with the ECM companies, as I think they just trick you into getting stuck with their replacements.