How to sit comfortably in a 350z?
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 63
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From: florida
How to sit comfortably in a 350z?
My lower back kills me every time I drive long distances. The seats are stock so nothing custom. What do you all do to stop from having lower back aches? I am 6ft tall.
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,936
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From: Pennsylvania
Drive faster so you get there quicker.......jk. Do you have the tilt/lumbar support dials on your drivers seat? Did you adjust them to your liking?.. There's options, but it all depends on how much your willing to spend. From lumbar seat cushions to a completely new seat.
Last edited by Atreyu'z 350; Oct 1, 2017 at 09:08 AM.
What is your seating position? Are you leaning like a cholo? Straight up like a board?
Also like said above what is your lumbar support at? Do you even have one?
As someone with a bad back, I'd also go see a chiropractor and possibly get adjusted. A factory seat should not be bothering your back that badly.
Also like said above what is your lumbar support at? Do you even have one?
As someone with a bad back, I'd also go see a chiropractor and possibly get adjusted. A factory seat should not be bothering your back that badly.
Im pretty comfortable in the 350z (04 touring with heated leather seats) but in the juke I was having issues with my back on long trips (and short trips)
I ended up getting a memory foam cushion from Costco for like $20. I set the seat to its lowest point and sit on the cushion and it has helped out tremendously.
At work I drive all day, and I always have a back brace thing on. I dont keep it strapped around me but the added support on the lower back helps with the horrible seats in the work truck.
I ended up getting a memory foam cushion from Costco for like $20. I set the seat to its lowest point and sit on the cushion and it has helped out tremendously.
At work I drive all day, and I always have a back brace thing on. I dont keep it strapped around me but the added support on the lower back helps with the horrible seats in the work truck.
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From: Northern California
Proper seat adjustment (and yes, as taught in driving school where I remember spending at least an hour of class and "fit" time to learning the proper driving position(s); dependent upon type of driving):
- Always start with the pedal positions. Move the seat to the most comfortable position for your legs. Keep the seat bottom in a position where you are not reaching (overextending) for the pedals; that is, full extension not required to clutch nor accelerator. And, always use the dead pedal; do not ride the clutch pedal. (You'd be amazed at how stiff one's leg (and back) get from holding a foot/leg over the clutch pedal.)
- Once that's "set" (it's temporary), adjust seat back so that your arms have a slight bend when driving straight and you are not overreaching to turn. Once that's set, you may need to readjust the lower position slightly fore or aft one or two notches so that your legs and arms are isolated from your core to minimize how much your central body needs to move for any action. Strength for your arms and leg input comes from the core and a mobile center body takes away from any inputs.
The key is to keep the central body from having to move a lot when doing anything to control the car. Keeping the body upright is key. Leaning too far forward or backward makes for too many unnecessary full body motions and limits what your arms and legs are doing in relation to one another. Let your arms and legs only control the car. You don't need "body english" even when pushing a series of turns.
Look at how race drivers are positioned. Racing seats and driver positions completely limit central body movement; which would also be highly unsafe in the event of a shunt.
If your body type won't allow for this, you may have to resort to any/all of the other mechanical suggestions made in this thread to alter your position for correct control and comfort. Lumbar support is key to maintain the proper spinal curvature for comfort and strength.
Once that's all set, always keep in mind hand and foot positions: Right foot always in a position to pivot properly for brake and accelerator and, if you use it, proper heel-toe movement. Hand position on the wheel should be 9 and 3 (or 10 and 2 if that's a bit more comfortable). This allows for minimal movement on the wheel by maximizing the input from a single position.
And lastly, pay attention to your grip while in motion. Firm but never clenched tight. A tight clench (AKA "white knuckle" or "death grip") on the wheel kills your shoulders and upper back. Try it.... conscious relaxation of your grip is key here.
And I'll repeat it because it seems trivial but is a big deal: USE THE DEAD PEDAL whenever you're not clutching.
Z33 offers one of the best ergonomic seats in the biz vis a vis the control board (wheel, shifter, etc.) BUT they're not the best for EVERYONE so you'll have to play with them to get them right.
- Always start with the pedal positions. Move the seat to the most comfortable position for your legs. Keep the seat bottom in a position where you are not reaching (overextending) for the pedals; that is, full extension not required to clutch nor accelerator. And, always use the dead pedal; do not ride the clutch pedal. (You'd be amazed at how stiff one's leg (and back) get from holding a foot/leg over the clutch pedal.)
- Once that's "set" (it's temporary), adjust seat back so that your arms have a slight bend when driving straight and you are not overreaching to turn. Once that's set, you may need to readjust the lower position slightly fore or aft one or two notches so that your legs and arms are isolated from your core to minimize how much your central body needs to move for any action. Strength for your arms and leg input comes from the core and a mobile center body takes away from any inputs.
The key is to keep the central body from having to move a lot when doing anything to control the car. Keeping the body upright is key. Leaning too far forward or backward makes for too many unnecessary full body motions and limits what your arms and legs are doing in relation to one another. Let your arms and legs only control the car. You don't need "body english" even when pushing a series of turns.
Look at how race drivers are positioned. Racing seats and driver positions completely limit central body movement; which would also be highly unsafe in the event of a shunt.
If your body type won't allow for this, you may have to resort to any/all of the other mechanical suggestions made in this thread to alter your position for correct control and comfort. Lumbar support is key to maintain the proper spinal curvature for comfort and strength.
Once that's all set, always keep in mind hand and foot positions: Right foot always in a position to pivot properly for brake and accelerator and, if you use it, proper heel-toe movement. Hand position on the wheel should be 9 and 3 (or 10 and 2 if that's a bit more comfortable). This allows for minimal movement on the wheel by maximizing the input from a single position.
And lastly, pay attention to your grip while in motion. Firm but never clenched tight. A tight clench (AKA "white knuckle" or "death grip") on the wheel kills your shoulders and upper back. Try it.... conscious relaxation of your grip is key here.
And I'll repeat it because it seems trivial but is a big deal: USE THE DEAD PEDAL whenever you're not clutching.
Z33 offers one of the best ergonomic seats in the biz vis a vis the control board (wheel, shifter, etc.) BUT they're not the best for EVERYONE so you'll have to play with them to get them right.
Last edited by MicVelo; Oct 2, 2017 at 07:09 AM.
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 13,406
Likes: 130
From: MexiCali dodging potholes
^^^
yeah if you sit like this...only problems
evidently moving the seat/leg adjustments up, relieves stress from your lower back
use cruise control on long drives
stay in the slow lane to avoid numerous changes
get one of those head cushions to bring your skull forward
yeah if you sit like this...only problems
evidently moving the seat/leg adjustments up, relieves stress from your lower back
use cruise control on long drives
stay in the slow lane to avoid numerous changes
get one of those head cushions to bring your skull forward
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: florida
Proper seat adjustment (and yes, as taught in driving school where I remember spending at least an hour of class and "fit" time to learning the proper driving position(s); dependent upon type of driving):
- Always start with the pedal positions. Move the seat to the most comfortable position for your legs. Keep the seat bottom in a position where you are not reaching (overextending) for the pedals; that is, full extension not required to clutch nor accelerator. And, always use the dead pedal; do not ride the clutch pedal. (You'd be amazed at how stiff one's leg (and back) get from holding a foot/leg over the clutch pedal.)
- Once that's "set" (it's temporary), adjust seat back so that your arms have a slight bend when driving straight and you are not overreaching to turn. Once that's set, you may need to readjust the lower position slightly fore or aft one or two notches so that your legs and arms are isolated from your core to minimize how much your central body needs to move for any action. Strength for your arms and leg input comes from the core and a mobile center body takes away from any inputs.
The key is to keep the central body from having to move a lot when doing anything to control the car. Keeping the body upright is key. Leaning too far forward or backward makes for too many unnecessary full body motions and limits what your arms and legs are doing in relation to one another. Let your arms and legs only control the car. You don't need "body english" even when pushing a series of turns.
Look at how race drivers are positioned. Racing seats and driver positions completely limit central body movement; which would also be highly unsafe in the event of a shunt.
If your body type won't allow for this, you may have to resort to any/all of the other mechanical suggestions made in this thread to alter your position for correct control and comfort. Lumbar support is key to maintain the proper spinal curvature for comfort and strength.
Once that's all set, always keep in mind hand and foot positions: Right foot always in a position to pivot properly for brake and accelerator and, if you use it, proper heel-toe movement. Hand position on the wheel should be 9 and 3 (or 10 and 2 if that's a bit more comfortable). This allows for minimal movement on the wheel by maximizing the input from a single position.
And lastly, pay attention to your grip while in motion. Firm but never clenched tight. A tight clench (AKA "white knuckle" or "death grip") on the wheel kills your shoulders and upper back. Try it.... conscious relaxation of your grip is key here.
And I'll repeat it because it seems trivial but is a big deal: USE THE DEAD PEDAL whenever you're not clutching.
Z33 offers one of the best ergonomic seats in the biz vis a vis the control board (wheel, shifter, etc.) BUT they're not the best for EVERYONE so you'll have to play with them to get them right.
- Always start with the pedal positions. Move the seat to the most comfortable position for your legs. Keep the seat bottom in a position where you are not reaching (overextending) for the pedals; that is, full extension not required to clutch nor accelerator. And, always use the dead pedal; do not ride the clutch pedal. (You'd be amazed at how stiff one's leg (and back) get from holding a foot/leg over the clutch pedal.)
- Once that's "set" (it's temporary), adjust seat back so that your arms have a slight bend when driving straight and you are not overreaching to turn. Once that's set, you may need to readjust the lower position slightly fore or aft one or two notches so that your legs and arms are isolated from your core to minimize how much your central body needs to move for any action. Strength for your arms and leg input comes from the core and a mobile center body takes away from any inputs.
The key is to keep the central body from having to move a lot when doing anything to control the car. Keeping the body upright is key. Leaning too far forward or backward makes for too many unnecessary full body motions and limits what your arms and legs are doing in relation to one another. Let your arms and legs only control the car. You don't need "body english" even when pushing a series of turns.
Look at how race drivers are positioned. Racing seats and driver positions completely limit central body movement; which would also be highly unsafe in the event of a shunt.
If your body type won't allow for this, you may have to resort to any/all of the other mechanical suggestions made in this thread to alter your position for correct control and comfort. Lumbar support is key to maintain the proper spinal curvature for comfort and strength.
Once that's all set, always keep in mind hand and foot positions: Right foot always in a position to pivot properly for brake and accelerator and, if you use it, proper heel-toe movement. Hand position on the wheel should be 9 and 3 (or 10 and 2 if that's a bit more comfortable). This allows for minimal movement on the wheel by maximizing the input from a single position.
And lastly, pay attention to your grip while in motion. Firm but never clenched tight. A tight clench (AKA "white knuckle" or "death grip") on the wheel kills your shoulders and upper back. Try it.... conscious relaxation of your grip is key here.
And I'll repeat it because it seems trivial but is a big deal: USE THE DEAD PEDAL whenever you're not clutching.
Z33 offers one of the best ergonomic seats in the biz vis a vis the control board (wheel, shifter, etc.) BUT they're not the best for EVERYONE so you'll have to play with them to get them right.
New Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 3
From: Fayetteville, AR
Proper seat adjustment (and yes, as taught in driving school where I remember spending at least an hour of class and "fit" time to learning the proper driving position(s); dependent upon type of driving):
- Always start with the pedal positions. Move the seat to the most comfortable position for your legs. Keep the seat bottom in a position where you are not reaching (overextending) for the pedals; that is, full extension not required to clutch nor accelerator. And, always use the dead pedal; do not ride the clutch pedal. (You'd be amazed at how stiff one's leg (and back) get from holding a foot/leg over the clutch pedal.)
- Once that's "set" (it's temporary), adjust seat back so that your arms have a slight bend when driving straight and you are not overreaching to turn. Once that's set, you may need to readjust the lower position slightly fore or aft one or two notches so that your legs and arms are isolated from your core to minimize how much your central body needs to move for any action. Strength for your arms and leg input comes from the core and a mobile center body takes away from any inputs.
The key is to keep the central body from having to move a lot when doing anything to control the car. Keeping the body upright is key. Leaning too far forward or backward makes for too many unnecessary full body motions and limits what your arms and legs are doing in relation to one another. Let your arms and legs only control the car. You don't need "body english" even when pushing a series of turns.
Look at how race drivers are positioned. Racing seats and driver positions completely limit central body movement; which would also be highly unsafe in the event of a shunt.
If your body type won't allow for this, you may have to resort to any/all of the other mechanical suggestions made in this thread to alter your position for correct control and comfort. Lumbar support is key to maintain the proper spinal curvature for comfort and strength.
Once that's all set, always keep in mind hand and foot positions: Right foot always in a position to pivot properly for brake and accelerator and, if you use it, proper heel-toe movement. Hand position on the wheel should be 9 and 3 (or 10 and 2 if that's a bit more comfortable). This allows for minimal movement on the wheel by maximizing the input from a single position.
And lastly, pay attention to your grip while in motion. Firm but never clenched tight. A tight clench (AKA "white knuckle" or "death grip") on the wheel kills your shoulders and upper back. Try it.... conscious relaxation of your grip is key here.
And I'll repeat it because it seems trivial but is a big deal: USE THE DEAD PEDAL whenever you're not clutching.
Z33 offers one of the best ergonomic seats in the biz vis a vis the control board (wheel, shifter, etc.) BUT they're not the best for EVERYONE so you'll have to play with them to get them right.
- Always start with the pedal positions. Move the seat to the most comfortable position for your legs. Keep the seat bottom in a position where you are not reaching (overextending) for the pedals; that is, full extension not required to clutch nor accelerator. And, always use the dead pedal; do not ride the clutch pedal. (You'd be amazed at how stiff one's leg (and back) get from holding a foot/leg over the clutch pedal.)
- Once that's "set" (it's temporary), adjust seat back so that your arms have a slight bend when driving straight and you are not overreaching to turn. Once that's set, you may need to readjust the lower position slightly fore or aft one or two notches so that your legs and arms are isolated from your core to minimize how much your central body needs to move for any action. Strength for your arms and leg input comes from the core and a mobile center body takes away from any inputs.
The key is to keep the central body from having to move a lot when doing anything to control the car. Keeping the body upright is key. Leaning too far forward or backward makes for too many unnecessary full body motions and limits what your arms and legs are doing in relation to one another. Let your arms and legs only control the car. You don't need "body english" even when pushing a series of turns.
Look at how race drivers are positioned. Racing seats and driver positions completely limit central body movement; which would also be highly unsafe in the event of a shunt.
If your body type won't allow for this, you may have to resort to any/all of the other mechanical suggestions made in this thread to alter your position for correct control and comfort. Lumbar support is key to maintain the proper spinal curvature for comfort and strength.
Once that's all set, always keep in mind hand and foot positions: Right foot always in a position to pivot properly for brake and accelerator and, if you use it, proper heel-toe movement. Hand position on the wheel should be 9 and 3 (or 10 and 2 if that's a bit more comfortable). This allows for minimal movement on the wheel by maximizing the input from a single position.
And lastly, pay attention to your grip while in motion. Firm but never clenched tight. A tight clench (AKA "white knuckle" or "death grip") on the wheel kills your shoulders and upper back. Try it.... conscious relaxation of your grip is key here.
And I'll repeat it because it seems trivial but is a big deal: USE THE DEAD PEDAL whenever you're not clutching.
Z33 offers one of the best ergonomic seats in the biz vis a vis the control board (wheel, shifter, etc.) BUT they're not the best for EVERYONE so you'll have to play with them to get them right.
