Key fob not working. Help
10-22-2017, 11:50 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Key fob not working. Help
hey guys. So key fob was working perfectly then about 4 months ago it started intermittently not working here and there then I would have to get close to the car for it to work. Sometimes it would work sometimes it wouldn't. Then my car started locking on its own and the fob wouldn't work at all so took the battery out.
Bought a new remote fob now and programmed it successfully. Got the flashing hazards after pressing the button and inserting the key 6times etc.
the new fob doesn't work. Nothing happens.
Is there another part part of this or another transmitter in the car that could be bad?
Bought a new remote fob now and programmed it successfully. Got the flashing hazards after pressing the button and inserting the key 6times etc.
the new fob doesn't work. Nothing happens.
Is there another part part of this or another transmitter in the car that could be bad?
10-23-2017, 06:54 AM
#2
doesnt sound like you finished it
1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.
2. Insert key in ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder a minimum of six times within 10 seconds. Your hazard lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. (Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time). If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.
3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to ACC position.
4. Within 5 seconds, push any button on the keyless remote. Your hazard lamps should flash. (Do not press the button more than one time in the above step). If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.
5. If there are any remaining remotes (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your hazard lamps should flash. Repeat this step for each keyless remote (including any existing keyless remotes).
6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door.
Done
2. Insert key in ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder a minimum of six times within 10 seconds. Your hazard lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. (Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time). If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.
3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to ACC position.
4. Within 5 seconds, push any button on the keyless remote. Your hazard lamps should flash. (Do not press the button more than one time in the above step). If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.
5. If there are any remaining remotes (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your hazard lamps should flash. Repeat this step for each keyless remote (including any existing keyless remotes).
6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door.
Done
10-23-2017, 03:06 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
10-23-2017, 03:18 PM
#4
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MY350Z.COM
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Did you only have one key FOB for your car? It's rare for the electronic programming to go out on one FOB, much less two.
The other alternative is to go to the dealer and have them program both your old FOB and the new one to the NATS system. Cost? About an hour of shop time if you haven't screwed with NATS.
The other alternative is to go to the dealer and have them program both your old FOB and the new one to the NATS system. Cost? About an hour of shop time if you haven't screwed with NATS.
10-23-2017, 03:36 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Did you only have one key FOB for your car? It's rare for the electronic programming to go out on one FOB, much less two.
The other alternative is to go to the dealer and have them program both your old FOB and the new one to the NATS system. Cost? About an hour of shop time if you haven't screwed with NATS.
The other alternative is to go to the dealer and have them program both your old FOB and the new one to the NATS system. Cost? About an hour of shop time if you haven't screwed with NATS.
the original owner lost the other FOB so i only have the 1... it worked perfect about until a few months ago. like i said then started becoming intermittent just thought it was the battery... but nope. then thought it was the fob... obviously not.
DAMN> Lol
10-23-2017, 04:51 PM
#6
New Member
I doubt that the receiver in the car is the problem. This is a component of the car’s burglar alarm, and it is very reliable.
The likely problem is that the FOB’s battery is too weak to maintain the FOB’s functions. I experienced the same problem and symptoms.
When the FOB’s battery is no longer strong enough, you will experience various problems. These include:
1. Doors locking when the FOB is close to the car, but you have not pressed the lock button.
2. Pressing the FOB’s Unlock Button does not unlock the doors.
3. The Panic Sound (horn honking) when the FOB is near the car, but you have not pressed the Panic Button on the FOB.
To fix the problem: Either buy new FOBs, or replace the batteries in the FOBs you have. Either solution requires reprogramming.
You are not the first person reporting a problem when reprogramming a FOB. It took me three attempts before I got it right.
The likely problem is that the FOB’s battery is too weak to maintain the FOB’s functions. I experienced the same problem and symptoms.
When the FOB’s battery is no longer strong enough, you will experience various problems. These include:
1. Doors locking when the FOB is close to the car, but you have not pressed the lock button.
2. Pressing the FOB’s Unlock Button does not unlock the doors.
3. The Panic Sound (horn honking) when the FOB is near the car, but you have not pressed the Panic Button on the FOB.
To fix the problem: Either buy new FOBs, or replace the batteries in the FOBs you have. Either solution requires reprogramming.
You are not the first person reporting a problem when reprogramming a FOB. It took me three attempts before I got it right.
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10-24-2017, 05:58 AM
#8
If it's not the fob you can try other diagnostics. Might try re programming again to make sure.
Not sure what year car you have but check the factory service manual if you want to diagnose it yourself. BL(BODY, LOCK & SECURITY SYSTEM) page 75 is the start of the diagnostics. You will need some sort of oscilloscope or maybe just a fast DMM 100Hz+ to test the keyless entry receiver.
The keyless entry receiver might not really be a critical part of the NATS system. There are no instructions to reprogram with nats or reprogram key fobs. It might just be a receiver and repeater to the BCM.
Not sure what year car you have but check the factory service manual if you want to diagnose it yourself. BL(BODY, LOCK & SECURITY SYSTEM) page 75 is the start of the diagnostics. You will need some sort of oscilloscope or maybe just a fast DMM 100Hz+ to test the keyless entry receiver.
The keyless entry receiver might not really be a critical part of the NATS system. There are no instructions to reprogram with nats or reprogram key fobs. It might just be a receiver and repeater to the BCM.
Last edited by rancor; 10-24-2017 at 06:09 AM.
11-02-2017, 01:38 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
I doubt that the receiver in the car is the problem. This is a component of the car’s burglar alarm, and it is very reliable.
The likely problem is that the FOB’s battery is too weak to maintain the FOB’s functions. I experienced the same problem and symptoms.
When the FOB’s battery is no longer strong enough, you will experience various problems. These include:
1. Doors locking when the FOB is close to the car, but you have not pressed the lock button.
2. Pressing the FOB’s Unlock Button does not unlock the doors.
3. The Panic Sound (horn honking) when the FOB is near the car, but you have not pressed the Panic Button on the FOB.
To fix the problem: Either buy new FOBs, or replace the batteries in the FOBs you have. Either solution requires reprogramming.
You are not the first person reporting a problem when reprogramming a FOB. It took me three attempts before I got it right.
The likely problem is that the FOB’s battery is too weak to maintain the FOB’s functions. I experienced the same problem and symptoms.
When the FOB’s battery is no longer strong enough, you will experience various problems. These include:
1. Doors locking when the FOB is close to the car, but you have not pressed the lock button.
2. Pressing the FOB’s Unlock Button does not unlock the doors.
3. The Panic Sound (horn honking) when the FOB is near the car, but you have not pressed the Panic Button on the FOB.
To fix the problem: Either buy new FOBs, or replace the batteries in the FOBs you have. Either solution requires reprogramming.
You are not the first person reporting a problem when reprogramming a FOB. It took me three attempts before I got it right.
get this... I did Re-program the new fob again and it worked intermittently which is very strange. wouldnt work if i was more than 10feet from the car. only worked really close and trunk button wouldnt work at all no matter how close i was.
so took the fob back since the fob i already have shows same symptoms...
09-17-2019, 01:35 PM
#10
Zombie Thread...differnt day same key fob problem.
I have almost the identical problem. The interesting part is the key insertion. In over a dozen tries I actually attained the results of the program. I would see other strange things at other times. No turn signal flashing, just a fading clicking, like a background noise. 2 turn signal flashes only, then nothing, or just nothing. I can't believe it is so difficult as to fail repeatedly. Also the same symptom referenced by katinkid. The remote worked well until a little later, a couple of hours then it was dead. New battery / new remote. Everyone seems to think the receivers are infallible....At the same time, my car doesn't make contact with the key chip sometimes and doesn't turn on the fuel pump so won't start. Remove the key lock, unlock the doors, try again. Sometimes it takes 3 tries, then, starts right up. There has to be an over arching cause to theres problem. I've seen the same complaint all over the internet, but little if any explanation.
07-27-2020, 10:04 AM
#11
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Same problem...
When I took my Z to the dealer to get new keys made and program a fob, they couldn’t do it either, I’m thinking my receiver unit is the one with the problem.
07-27-2020, 12:19 PM
#12
I bought my Z used, it came with 2 keys. One worked OK, the other was off and on. So, I decided I wanted a trick flip key. I ordered the housing from Ebay and had the key cut from the good key, not really knowing what made the other key off and on. I opened the "Bad" key head to retrieve the chip and doscovered it was blobbed in about twice the amount of rosin needed. I'm not a big fan of "Rosin" anyway so I soaked the chip lightly with denatured alchahol and installed it in the flip housing with a touch of super glue. The flip key has never failed me since. I suspect the rosin is distorting / blocking the Mgz Frequency of the search signal causing these keys to be faulty.