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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

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Old 03-12-2018, 10:51 PM   #21  
Shoomakan
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in a round-about kind of way - it's sorta an insult to Chevy & the Camaro that they have to have a 700hp engine simply to compete with cars with 1/2 their hp


nice pics btw...
Well to be completely honest, the driver is mediocre. A good driver in that Camaro would have handed me my *** by far more than half a second over a ~2:20 heat. Gen 5 Camaros handle quite well when they're set up properly, and that track was wide enough where the Camaro's size wasn't a detriment. The next race is at a much tighter track and I feel that's when I can beat him. We'll see!

Also, less than half. :P Still untuned with no cams.
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:55 AM   #22  
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Update with an onboard video of my second heat. Sorry for the mic noise, you can barely hear the damn car...

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Old 03-19-2018, 03:17 AM   #23  
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Little update: was getting a bit fed up of the NVH I had in the car. Decided to remove the only thing I could that's relatively easy to do, so I swapped out the Torque Solutions tranny mount for an OEM one.

Difference is night and day. You can only tell the motor mounts are solid at idle, otherwise the car feels wonderful. I don't feel like driveline slop has resurfaced at all, possibly due to Whiteline diff bushings in the rear and solid mounts in the front.

I can safely say that solid mounts are perfectly daily drivable (mine are at least), and to avoid a poly trans mount unless you want excess NVH for little gain in the driveline slop department.
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:36 PM   #24  
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Little update: was getting a bit fed up of the NVH I had in the car. Decided to remove the only thing I could that's relatively easy to do, so I swapped out the Torque Solutions tranny mount for an OEM one.

Difference is night and day. You can only tell the motor mounts are solid at idle, otherwise the car feels wonderful. I don't feel like driveline slop has resurfaced at all, possibly due to Whiteline diff bushings in the rear and solid mounts in the front.

I can safely say that solid mounts are perfectly daily drivable (mine are at least), and to avoid a poly trans mount unless you want excess NVH for little gain in the driveline slop department.
did you replace with a new OEM tranny mount or just your OEM mount you had before? Reason I ask is I've searched a lot about this and was wondering if i should upgrade to the urthane tranny mount or NEW oem mount. Don't really want the NVH, but would like to stiffen it up with a new OEM mount.
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Old 03-20-2018, 11:37 PM   #25  
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did you replace with a new OEM tranny mount or just your OEM mount you had before? Reason I ask is I've searched a lot about this and was wondering if i should upgrade to the urthane tranny mount or NEW oem mount. Don't really want the NVH, but would like to stiffen it up with a new OEM mount.
New OEM. I really wouldn't put a poly trans mount in it. You have no idea how much it was affecting my enjoyment of the car.

Vibration was excessive, I could feel the exhaust throughout the whole car which meant I couldn't hear the exhaust anymore. It felt like I had put a white noise machine on top of everything. When I removed it, the whole car stopped vibrating so much to the point where I felt like a man who had regained one of his senses. I know the Torque Solutions one is 75h, where others have a 60 or 65. I really wouldn't try any of them.

I have solid engine mounts and full Whiteline bushings. Car feels like OEM + instead of wannabe race car. Which is what I wanted.
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Old 03-23-2018, 01:58 AM   #26  
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New update:

Removed my driver's seat, put it on a bench, saw how the **** mechanism to lower the front part of the seat works, and modified it.

I didn't take pictures because I'm a dweeb, but someone else has already shared them here (about 5 pages back on the main page). I did something similar but in a different way. I removed the rivets that act as a brake on either side (one on the **** side, and the other), and moved them a couple of centimeters downwards. The seat drops all the way till the "seat swaybar" touches the underside of the seat now. Made a big difference!

This 200cm driver can now fit in his car WITH a helmet on.
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Old 03-24-2018, 08:09 AM   #27  
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So, did the seat drop down all the way or only the front side-wise?
Very interested in lowering my seat as well)
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Old 03-24-2018, 08:16 AM   #28  
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Front part only. Gives you a lot more room between your legs and the steering wheel. Also lowers your seating position by a couple of cm.

Honestly after looking at the bottom of the seat, I had second thoughts about cutting and rewelding the "legs" of the seat (which I wanted to do). I'd rather pay a bit of money for rails. Peace of mind and all that.
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:35 AM   #29  
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Installed 16.5mm spacers on Liza over the weekend. Love the way she sits now. Here are some pics! Rolled the rear fenders when I installed the spacers as it rubbed a bit.

Sorry the pics don't do the spacers justice!
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:49 AM   #30  
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Also, I wanted to share a little experiment I've been doing. Basically, this is the much sought after JDM 350Z wheel (one of two as I understand correctly).

I noticed that the JDM Momo 350Z wheel looks nearly identical to a Mitsubishi Evo steering wheel. I removed my steering wheel to see if by any chance the steering wheel hub fitment was the same, but it turns out it is not. Since I have access to a workshop, I've devised an idea to make it work. I'm not aiming to have the Evo wheel airbag work, so I won't comment on if I think it'll work or not. It'll fit on the OEM Nissan hub with no aftermarket adaptor if my idea works, and during the reupholstering process, it'll lose the emblazoned Mitsubishi logo. I'll either stick a "Z" in the center or a "Nissan" badge.

Best of all, it's cheap. Machining, re-upholstering and installing the wheel should cost me less than $200. A clean wheel wouldn't need the upholstery either, but I feel like having mine dressed in new perforated leather. I have lots of work to do this month and will be travelling to China so updates will likely follow in May.
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