Can you replace the engine in the 35th Anniversary Edition with a different one?
12-12-2017, 07:19 AM
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Can you replace the engine in the 35th Anniversary Edition with a different one?
2005 35th Anniversary 350z needs a new engine. Can it be replaced with a different engine or does it have to be a 35th anniversary edition engine (BQ35DE Rev Up I think).
12-12-2017, 12:09 PM
#3
My guess would be... since it's a Revup DE, it's most likely burning oil at an alarming rate (3qt+ every 3k miles). The engine in my 06 350Z is at this point and it only has 103k miles on it. I'm thinking about a new long block. My Z has always burned oil since the day I bought it with 16.5k miles on it. It's just gotten progressively worse over the last 7 years of ownership and I've always changed my oil & filters every 3.5-4k miles. I think the original owner beat on the engine or never followed proper break-in procedures.
As I understand it, you should be able to replace your engine with a Non-Revup VQ35DE, however you will most likely need a new engine wiring harness and a new ECU. The Revup version of the engine has different heads which incorporate both Exhaust and Intake cam phasing while the Non-Revup version (I think) only had intake cam phasing. I recommend keeping the Revup design.
-Icer
As I understand it, you should be able to replace your engine with a Non-Revup VQ35DE, however you will most likely need a new engine wiring harness and a new ECU. The Revup version of the engine has different heads which incorporate both Exhaust and Intake cam phasing while the Non-Revup version (I think) only had intake cam phasing. I recommend keeping the Revup design.
-Icer
Last edited by icer5160; 12-12-2017 at 04:38 PM.
12-12-2017, 12:58 PM
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The engine started to knock a month after purchase. I'm sure the previous owner knew but nothing I can do about it. Nissan is saying it'll be $9000 to replace the engine. If I don't have to replace it with a 35th Anniversary Edition it will save me a lot of money.
12-12-2017, 01:09 PM
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The engine started to knock a month after purchase. I'm sure the previous owner knew but nothing I can do about it. Nissan is saying it'll be $9000 to replace the engine. If I don't have to replace it with a 35th Anniversary Edition it will save me a lot of money.
12-12-2017, 01:21 PM
#6
You can put a LS2 in it if you really wanted to.
You can run a non 35th annaversery engine. All you need is the ECU, Wire harness and motor. Mounts and everything else should match up assuming you want a standard DE.
But the best bet would to be just buy a matching year rev up to minimize the complications.
But yea that $9,000 is a scam. It's $500 for a used motor no trans, 8 hours labor job tops.
If you do buy a motor make sure you get the compression numbers. Make sure you don't buy another dead motor. It's not uncommon as you see for people to sell bum motors as good.
You can run a non 35th annaversery engine. All you need is the ECU, Wire harness and motor. Mounts and everything else should match up assuming you want a standard DE.
But the best bet would to be just buy a matching year rev up to minimize the complications.
But yea that $9,000 is a scam. It's $500 for a used motor no trans, 8 hours labor job tops.
If you do buy a motor make sure you get the compression numbers. Make sure you don't buy another dead motor. It's not uncommon as you see for people to sell bum motors as good.
12-12-2017, 01:30 PM
#7
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My suggestion would be find a junked Z that was totaled from rear end damage (pro drifter life bruh) and do compression test and have a mechanic look it over. or buy a used rev up for around 2500 with around 30k miles. $9,000 is about the value of the car with a running motor..
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12-12-2017, 02:06 PM
#8
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Wow, I don't know where you guys are finding these engines so cheap but I'd love to know! If I could find one that is the same but haven't been able to.
12-12-2017, 02:38 PM
#9
You can find them all over eBay and Craigs list with 120k+ miles from $500 to $2,000. You just have to shop around. Clearly the more you pay usually the better you get. Some even come with a limited warranty.
Ones with a trans and ECU usually go for more around $1,200 to $3,000.
Honestly these are $800 engines and $900 trans. Price just varies all over the place due to miles and some people just paying stupid pricing like OP's quoted $9k cause shops know there is at least one sucker out there who will just throw it down.
2 second google I found a bunch of $1,200 DE's, $1,500 DE with a trans and another DE for $400 with everything but the intake manifold. Says it runs but who knows.
OP you can buy these cars salved and totaled for like $1,800 on auctions. I got mine with barely any front end damage for $2,500. Took me $400 to fix and have a 40k mile Z for under $4k. Which is now a single turbo Z for under $10k.
Ones with a trans and ECU usually go for more around $1,200 to $3,000.
Honestly these are $800 engines and $900 trans. Price just varies all over the place due to miles and some people just paying stupid pricing like OP's quoted $9k cause shops know there is at least one sucker out there who will just throw it down.
2 second google I found a bunch of $1,200 DE's, $1,500 DE with a trans and another DE for $400 with everything but the intake manifold. Says it runs but who knows.
OP you can buy these cars salved and totaled for like $1,800 on auctions. I got mine with barely any front end damage for $2,500. Took me $400 to fix and have a 40k mile Z for under $4k. Which is now a single turbo Z for under $10k.
Last edited by CK_32; 12-12-2017 at 03:07 PM.
12-12-2017, 03:01 PM
#10
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You can find them all over eBay and Craigs list with 120k+ miles from $500 to $2,000. You just have to shop around. Clearly the more you pay usually the better you get. Some even come with a limited warranty.
Ones with a trans and ECU usually go for more around $1,200 to $3,000.
Honestly these are $800 engines and $900 trans. Price just varies all over the place due to miles and some people just paying stupid pricing like OP's quoted $9k cause shops know there is at least one sucker out there who will just throw it down.
2 second google I found a bunch of $1,200 DE's, $1,500 DE with a trans and another DE for $400 with everything but the intake manifold. Says it runs but who knows.
OP you can buy these cars salver and totaled for like $1,800 on auctions. I got mine with barely any front end damage for $2,500. Took me $400 to fix and have a 40k mile Z for under $4k. Which is now a single turbo Z for under $10k.
Ones with a trans and ECU usually go for more around $1,200 to $3,000.
Honestly these are $800 engines and $900 trans. Price just varies all over the place due to miles and some people just paying stupid pricing like OP's quoted $9k cause shops know there is at least one sucker out there who will just throw it down.
2 second google I found a bunch of $1,200 DE's, $1,500 DE with a trans and another DE for $400 with everything but the intake manifold. Says it runs but who knows.
OP you can buy these cars salver and totaled for like $1,800 on auctions. I got mine with barely any front end damage for $2,500. Took me $400 to fix and have a 40k mile Z for under $4k. Which is now a single turbo Z for under $10k.
Anyway off subject 🤐
OP: these engines are everywhere, especially since every kid with mommy's money thought they were ken block and totaled a bunch of them with good engine and trans. Best bet is to source one locally and have comp tests to eliminate the chance of buying a bunk engine from online.
12-12-2017, 04:48 PM
#11
$9k sounds like the price for a Built Stage 2 longblock with labor/installation!
As others have suggested, you can gamble with a cheap "used" longblock from a wrecked Z or get a quality rebuilt engine for a bit more. Odds are the engine from a wrecked Z will be ok, but I would focus on "Nissan" specialty salvage yards. These places usually make a reasonable attempt to inspect what they sell before offering it up. I like saccityautoparts for hard to find stuff, but sometimes their prices can be higher vs buying new online. Just need to know exactly what you're looking for.
-Icer
As others have suggested, you can gamble with a cheap "used" longblock from a wrecked Z or get a quality rebuilt engine for a bit more. Odds are the engine from a wrecked Z will be ok, but I would focus on "Nissan" specialty salvage yards. These places usually make a reasonable attempt to inspect what they sell before offering it up. I like saccityautoparts for hard to find stuff, but sometimes their prices can be higher vs buying new online. Just need to know exactly what you're looking for.
-Icer
12-12-2017, 06:37 PM
#12
on the topic of new engine.
what is the cost of having a shop take the engine out to replace with forged pistons, bore out cylinders, new cams, all new gaskets and whatever else you would need to have a new built engine?
also forged internals...is this more common on FI cars than NA cars? I understand basic bolt ons but never explored deeper into engine mods.
what is the cost of having a shop take the engine out to replace with forged pistons, bore out cylinders, new cams, all new gaskets and whatever else you would need to have a new built engine?
also forged internals...is this more common on FI cars than NA cars? I understand basic bolt ons but never explored deeper into engine mods.
12-12-2017, 06:45 PM
#13
Registered User
on the topic of new engine.
what is the cost of having a shop take the engine out to replace with forged pistons, bore out cylinders, new cams, all new gaskets and whatever else you would need to have a new built engine?
also forged internals...is this more common on FI cars than NA cars? I understand basic bolt ons but never explored deeper into engine mods.
what is the cost of having a shop take the engine out to replace with forged pistons, bore out cylinders, new cams, all new gaskets and whatever else you would need to have a new built engine?
also forged internals...is this more common on FI cars than NA cars? I understand basic bolt ons but never explored deeper into engine mods.
All this info is on the forums.
But to briefly summarize an answer for you. Forged internals are best utilized for FI and high powered N/A builds. But forged is better across the board for reliability.
On the note of engine rebuild, if just doing stock rebuild then depending on location labor alone would be over $1500 for a reputable builder not including machinist pricing.
For example let's say OP knocking is a bent rod and not crank slop etc.
He would need new rods roughly $60 a rod on ebay (just quick search)
Would need new gaskets and resurfacing and either bore or sleeve the cylinders if any damage was caused from the rod knock which is pretty much gaurenteed.
Overall to rebuild the engine it would just be cheaper and faster to swap it.
12-12-2017, 07:11 PM
#14
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Mostly good info, but rebuilding an engine properly means it restarts life much closer to being a new engine, i.e. new rod and crank bearings, resurfaced crank, fresh rings and freshened heads. Putting a salvage engine into your car means you inherit all the problems the former owner had. Every VQ engine is precision built and the wear on them shortens their useful life, so caveat emptor!
12-12-2017, 08:01 PM
#15
But!
Salvaged auction cars usually mean they had coverage. Where most teens who can't afford oil don't and have to sell it on their own after they wreck it. Not to mention if it's like mine you get a old mans car that only had 35k slow n easy miles and was well taken care of.
Which a kid bought and had it for 3 months before crashing it haha
I found the kids reg papers in my car after I bought it. Explains why it had a full body clear bra and was mint AF bruh!
But then again a bearing and engine rebuild probably would cold less than a new motor and install.
Salvaged auction cars usually mean they had coverage. Where most teens who can't afford oil don't and have to sell it on their own after they wreck it. Not to mention if it's like mine you get a old mans car that only had 35k slow n easy miles and was well taken care of.
Which a kid bought and had it for 3 months before crashing it haha
I found the kids reg papers in my car after I bought it. Explains why it had a full body clear bra and was mint AF bruh!
But then again a bearing and engine rebuild probably would cold less than a new motor and install.
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