Superior cooling fins
Hi, I have developed a custom larger oil pan for my 1st gen FX35..not my wifes 350Z yet..haha.

wondering how much interest from u guys to replace/upgrade your oil pan..Tranny pan can also be done..FX 35 is being done now.

will take an extra 600ml or so oil and has superior cooling fins to reduce temps.
check out the photos and leave me any comments

lets see if there is more intetest from 1sr Gen or 2nd gen owners...These are custom made to order pieces..Tranny pan can be done too.
best regards
Sohail(DragonRacing)

 

How much lower does it sit than OEM? Would it fit with a the GT Spec front subrame brace?

any way to run the fins longitudinal with the engine/car (ie rotate them 90 degrees)?

what is price looking like per unit?

 

Depends on the price and quality of performance.

I doubt I'd get one tho. Rather just have an oil cooler. Cheaper and more effective usually.

Also if you can add baffles that would really make that product worth while to most.

 

I'd echo the price factor - if this was $25 I'd buy 10 of them, if it was $250 I'd probably pass on it.

Any additional cooling and oil capacity is a step in the right direction.

Is there going to be a drain plug?

Can one or two ~AN-8, 3/8", 1/2" oil return ports be machined in or can a flat spot be designed in?

I'd also consider including a 'step-down' extender for the oil pickup tube?

 

If I had to guess it's probably over $250 easily

 

Yea and you'd have the figure out the issue of either a matching aluminum plug screw or find a way to stop the steel/aluminum chemical fusion reaction. I don't think a aluminum screw would hold the tq properties with out stripping the threads or pan.

And if you set a steel plug in an aluminum pan it's only a matter of time until the fuse together perminantly.

And yea gauranteed it's at least $250+.. OEM is $60.. Greddy ***** pans are like $370... again which is why I'd rather just run a cooler than a pan. The price for performance just isn't there IMO.

 

valid ... although OP is over seas!

or the torque on the steel plug ripping out the aluminum threads...

I like the idea/concept for sure -

 

and.... he would have to be a vendor to sale on here

 

I would totally not be interested at all. But good job making it.

 

Z1 sells an aluminum magnetic plug that I run. Didn't sense any signs of weakness when I torqued it into the steel pan. Should be OK imo.

I've designed a lot of aluminum fixtures/tools then put steel fasteners into them repeatedly without any failures at work too. Aluminum on aluminum would be alright

But agreed on the price point/benefit argument

 

Give it enough time and time he steel and aluminum will bond to one another due to electrons and metallurgic properties.

That is why it's the industry standard to apply grease to steel rifle barrels before putting them into the reviewers. Give enough time and heat cycles they will literally become one.

 

That's concerning...

I was talking about the strength of threads prior to any of the effects you brought up solely, but this is a great point to consider and your comment has made me curious.

What about the contact between the engine block etc. and the steel fasteners all over the car? Does the zinc chromate coating (I think that's the coating) prevent said corrosion? Or the ratio of steel to aluminum?

I haven't heard much talk about this in industry. It seems like everyone is just using black oxide or non passivated SS machine screws in industrial automation/machine design. But we all know these coatings do not hold up under the pressures seen at the thread mating surfaces... But whatever yellow coating is on the OEM fasteners does do very well comparing to black oxide.

Also what about the oil introduced in the case of the drain plug?

 

I'm not 100% sure. But I'm sure coatings and gaskets play a big role in prevention. Just like the grease would.

I'd just keep an eye on it. I just know very tight machined surfaces of the 2 different types of metals usually don't end well. Even more so with constant heat cycles.