Need help figuring out what's wrong.
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Need help figuring out what's wrong.
So recently baught a 2006 350z grand touring with a lsd diff. I replaced the clutch with a stage 2 and the flywheel with a single disk. I had to make a new slave cylinder arm for the clutch because the oem one was to small. Now I ran into a weird problem. I'll turn off VDC and when I'm in a low gear and get the tires spinning the rear end will kind of shake or made a repeating loud slamming noise and this never happens unless the tires spin. I replaced the diff fluids but it still happens. The only other solution I can think of is on the slave cylinder arm that I made I think I made it a little to long and there no play so could it be something with the clutch? If it's not that the my next step is to get new diff gears which is like $1000! Any ideas?
#3
Master
iTrader: (8)
i have a grand idea... dont freakin double post.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-new-diff.html
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-new-diff.html
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iideadeyeii (02-13-2018)
#4
New Member
i have a grand idea... dont freakin double post.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-new-diff.html
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-new-diff.html
Oh wow. I didn't even see that other one
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
Yeah it happens with VDC on but it's prob just trying to stop the rear from spinning in the first place. Idk about the ECM I'm still kind of a beginner at this stuff it's my first "project" car. I used a normal bolt and I cut the top and thread off and rounded the ends so it look pretty identical to the oem one just like a half inch longer. I can't get pics because I'm in school right now.
#7
New Member
Yeah it happens with VDC on but it's prob just trying to stop the rear from spinning in the first place. Idk about the ECM I'm still kind of a beginner at this stuff it's my first "project" car. I used a normal bolt and I cut the top and thread off and rounded the ends so it look pretty identical to the oem one just like a half inch longer. I can't get pics because I'm in school right now.
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#8
New Member
Right. I'm just trying to isolate things.. Did it do this before you replaced the clutch(or didn't you try to burn out until after you replaced the clutch..heh)? Does it move in and out of the gears smoothly? Like is it driveable? And it just does it when you burn out?... Idk, it almost sounds like one of your suspension and/or drive train components is loose or worn out in the back.
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
You don't need to drop the trans to get to the slave cylinder arm... and i tried looking and I can't find where you buy a longer arm so bought an aftermarket slave cylinder which came with a slightly longer arm that wasn't specified but it still wasn't enough length so I just made one that looks identical to the oem.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Right. I'm just trying to isolate things.. Did it do this before you replaced the clutch(or didn't you try to burn out until after you replaced the clutch..heh)? Does it move in and out of the gears smoothly? Like is it driveable? And it just does it when you burn out?... Idk, it almost sounds like one of your suspension and/or drive train components is loose or worn out in the back.
#11
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It might be that im screwing up my part names im talking about the rod thing that the slave cylinder pushes out I made my own rod
#13
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You can’t see it that well because I’m having troubles getting the rubber off but that silver rod is what I made because the single disk I put in made me need more length the engage the clutch
#15
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Alright I will this weekend if I get to it im also repainting somethings thanks for the help/suggestions you been giving me
#18
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