Battery Relocation
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From: LONG BEACH
Battery Relocation
Hi All,
I am going to relocate my battery to behind the passenger seat (or at least where at the passenger seat would be. This is on a fully stripped race car, and I am trying to redistribute some weight to the rear and to the passenger side. Lightweight is not an option since I am already pretty light as-is for the class I will be racing.
Any tutorials out there? I am not seeing much out there, nothing with many details at least. Is it as simple as extending the positive and finding a new ground?
The battery will be in a fully enclosed contained welded into the car.
I am going to relocate my battery to behind the passenger seat (or at least where at the passenger seat would be. This is on a fully stripped race car, and I am trying to redistribute some weight to the rear and to the passenger side. Lightweight is not an option since I am already pretty light as-is for the class I will be racing.
Any tutorials out there? I am not seeing much out there, nothing with many details at least. Is it as simple as extending the positive and finding a new ground?
The battery will be in a fully enclosed contained welded into the car.
When I did mine I welded an aluminum tray out of 1"x1"x 1/8" angle and used traditional J-hooks to strap it down. I dont know of any tutorials either.
I dont know how to explain it technically but when you start adding additional battery wire you'll lose some electrical potential/amperage and it may not turn your starter like an OEM location did. Why my battery was in the trunk I added ~25ft of positive side cable and the alternator didnt charge the battery like you'd expect and the starter was sluggish. I'm sure there are 1000 factors...just my 2cents.
I dont know how to explain it technically but when you start adding additional battery wire you'll lose some electrical potential/amperage and it may not turn your starter like an OEM location did. Why my battery was in the trunk I added ~25ft of positive side cable and the alternator didnt charge the battery like you'd expect and the starter was sluggish. I'm sure there are 1000 factors...just my 2cents.
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Joined: Nov 2017
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From: LONG BEACH
18.8 Battery
The battery shall be securely fastened down to the car. No Bungee cords or rubber
cords may be used to function as the sole hold down mechanism. An electrically nonconductive
material must cover the positive battery terminal. Any battery located inside
the driver’s compartment shall be fully covered and firmly secured to the chassis in a
marine type battery case. True dry cell batteries may be mounted without a surrounding
case, however a case is still recommended. Note- there is a difference between “dry
cells” and “gel cells.” Gel cells still need to be mounted in a case.
18.9 Exposed Wires
There should be no exposed wires inside the driver’s compartment such as to interfere
with the safe operation of the vehicle. No live (hot) wires may be exposed anywhere in
the vehicle.
If your not going to have a passenger seat why not just put the box their, its not that far from the original spot, it will redistribute the weight, and their is already a nice vent hole in the floor.
Would probably only need like 3 feet of wire extension.
Would probably only need like 3 feet of wire extension.
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From: Los Angeles
I bought this cable. People seem to say it’s high quality and is relatively inexpensive.
InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25ft Black and 25ft Red Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXRVKLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XBZwBbF33A514
heat shrink and a few crimps and your good.
I used similar copper eyelets ... I think home depot and lowes have them as well in a few more sizes. I put the eyelet in the vise, heated it with a torch and filled the cavity w/solder then slightly frayed my cable wires and pushed it into the hot solder, added two layers of heat shrink and called it a day.
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