Hello all, I have a FBO 03 350z 6spd. I just had jwt s1 cams installed. Right now I’m in the fence about the kinetix velocity manifold, I’ve read to many different stories from heck ya, to nope, in some cases it actually losses power. I haven’t got it back on the dyno yet to measure the gains (made prior 283 local tuner before cams). Won’t until, I install the manifold or just leave alone. From what I see, the manifold seems to really hold the power at the very top...... with the cams I see that helping even more now. But at 700+ bucks it’s not a for sure gain lol. Here’s what she has now.
MD shockwave
MD art pipes
5/16 spacer
admin tuning 3.5 intake with added velocity stack.
lightweight pulleys
short tube headers (unknown brand)
shift tech Ported upper plenum
shifttech version of mrev
ported oem TB 5mm

 

losses vs. loses

I would look what Conway has done on his setup. You two have similar setups and you indeed might benefit from the swap.

But yea, at $7 that's a heavy price for gains that you'll only see when your engine is at redline.

If I were in your shoes I would stick with what you have and spend the cash somewhere else.

Have you considered a turbo/supercharger?

If you want to stay NA and you HAVE to spend the cash maybe consider other performance enhancing mods such as lighter wheels, lightweight battery, clutch/flywheel upgrades.

Do you have any pictures of your setup?

 

I did the cams and the change is phenomenal over stock cams. The car is dam fast now, guess I’m just tying maximize the NA part (dam close anyway). I haven’t retuned either. I’m guessing another 8-10 from a retune???? It’s running off prior tune and parts prior to cams. Boost is in my thoughts, lol I can’t even imagine that kind of power 400+. The cars gets ridiculous sideways as is with current power.

 

You 100% need to retune for many reasons, so get that done first (ideally on the dyno).
I personally ignore the numbers, use the same dyno for consistency and as long as the numbers improve in the area you want, lovely.

I'll be getting my Kinetix this week hopefully, I have the C8 cams, uprated oil pump, slightly higher rev limit.
I'll be getting another remap as well, so I'll see what happens with it, although I'll be getting ANOTHER remap after the PPE long tubes are installed too.

My car is used on track so power up the top is fine by me, which is what that Kinetix product seems to do (with complementing parts installed).

Your call. Your money

 

what Rob said...retune for sure - you'll probably open more than 8-10 up.

 

That’s right, I installed the rev up oem oil pump as well, my rpm was also raised to 7100 I believe. I won’t be on a road course (dam expensive down here) but I do drag race the car fairly often, and for this reason the higher rpm power will definitely help.........

 

I'll post up my results when I can get the remap done as well, whether it makes or loses power I'll show it.
There is some amazing information on this forum, it does get clouded sometimes by some grumpy folks arguing with each other but if you can sift through it, it's golden

 

Yes please post up your results! I’m very curious to see the curve

 

Absolutely, as soon as I've fitted stuff and can get down there


Current curve is like this, please note this dyno over here reads much lower than others I have visited (which were just rolling road days, not tuning):




If you use this link, it's quite good for comparing against other readings:

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/dyno.htm

 

Wow 310 RWHP! Sounds like u have quite a bit in the car to make that number?!!!!

 

I think it's 258rwhp, 310 fw (calculated).
That's why I say look at the converter to see a dyno you're more familiar with.
It'll change with the long tubes and kinetix again, so it's just the interim data for now.

 

 

I don't think you would see enough of a change with the Kinetix to justify the expense. Have you thought about rear gears, better diff, lightweight flywheel, upgraded clutch? None of these mods will make more HP but they will add to the fun factor for sure.

 

My bad, I do have JWT light flywheel, stage 2 clutch........ forgot I had those as well 🤦🏻*♂️.
The car is plenty of fun, sinse I added the cams I was thinking it’s a worthwhile expense... but not certain, why I’m here getting the opinions of you all.
the cams helped out the top end quite a bit. Hell all over, as expensive as they where the end results was very worth it to me... seems like most are leaning toward leaving alone and just retune......

 

I would definitely look into the rear gears then.

 

I have yet to regret buying mine, I mostly got it for looks and ease of use when taking stuff apart. I had a modded upper and lower with spacer and I honestly didn't feel a loss, I do have to tune it soon though.

 

As others have stated, I would recommend skipping over the Kinetix manifold. From the reading material I've come across regarding the Kinetix and Cosworth intake manifolds, they don't really shine unless you go FI. If you're sticking with an NA setup, the OEM plenum/manfiold or MREV are good options, if not better when considering the cost:gain ratio. Based on what I've read and heard by talking with my local tuning shop, you'd be really hard pressed to get an NA VQ35DE beyond 300rwhp (Although I've heard it can be done). This requires very aggressive cams, timing and fuel map tuning, as well as open exhaust & intake. The car would no longer pass inspection at the end of the day and idle like crap thanks to the overly aggressive cams. ITBs are pretty sweet, but again won't pass inspection and even more expensive. I've only heard of ITBs on Zs setup strictly for the track, not street.

Changing up the final drive gear ratio will certainly help improve acceleration. The only downside to this is you lose some accuracy in your speedo and sacrifice a little fuel economy (but who cares about that in a sports car anyway!). Otherwise you can try to find ways to remove weight from the vehicle. If you haven't already, look into the "pulley delete" since you have an 03. That will free up a little power and remove some weight. The touring V3 wheels you have are nice! But the rears are 19", if you want to maximize torque/power to the rear wheels and save some additional weight, look into a nice set of forged 18"s.

Here's a good article on a built NA VQ35DE (non-revup):
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...-engine-build/

Here's what a track tuned Z with ITBs sounds like:

-Icer

 

If it was me and I had to spend $700 on something other than FI I would look to lighten the car up...

Icer - I like that they open that video up with RPF1s!

 

icer5160:
I think you're partially wrong, there are threads showing them work properly with different cams, not just for FI cars.

Read this thread (not glossing over it, post #86 onwards if you want but its good throughout)
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...intakes-5.html

 

That's a shadow of the current engine that car is running, highest documented NA VQ at 500+ wheel