Need Opinions.
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From: North of Pitt. PA
I am considering boosting my Z.
So the first discussion is Turbo or Supercharger?
I've been looking at the single turbo system by Rev9. Keep in mind, I'm not going for crazy power. Looking for around 385ish to the wheels.
Just recently I came across a used Procharger kit for about the same price as a new Rev9 turbo kit. $2,800 ish.
So first thing first, no one NEEDS forced induction, but after bringing my Vette to the track the other week, I really miss the HP that the Z is lacking on the track. Secondly, I know that putting FI on a motor makes a greater chance of something going wrong. I don't want to put this on and have the motor (80k right now) blow up a couple months later. I understand the reliability comes to a good tune and there's a great tuner in my area I would use. Is there much difference from SC or Turbo reliability in the aftermarket world?
What I'm worried about the used Procharger kit is missing bits. I already know that the 3 to 2.5" coupler is missing. That's an easy find, but how many bolts or spacer are missing? This is where things can get a bit tricky real fast. But the kit is easily half the price of a new one.
So, big question, Used SC or new Turbo kit....
So the first discussion is Turbo or Supercharger?
I've been looking at the single turbo system by Rev9. Keep in mind, I'm not going for crazy power. Looking for around 385ish to the wheels.
Just recently I came across a used Procharger kit for about the same price as a new Rev9 turbo kit. $2,800 ish.
So first thing first, no one NEEDS forced induction, but after bringing my Vette to the track the other week, I really miss the HP that the Z is lacking on the track. Secondly, I know that putting FI on a motor makes a greater chance of something going wrong. I don't want to put this on and have the motor (80k right now) blow up a couple months later. I understand the reliability comes to a good tune and there's a great tuner in my area I would use. Is there much difference from SC or Turbo reliability in the aftermarket world?
What I'm worried about the used Procharger kit is missing bits. I already know that the 3 to 2.5" coupler is missing. That's an easy find, but how many bolts or spacer are missing? This is where things can get a bit tricky real fast. But the kit is easily half the price of a new one.
So, big question, Used SC or new Turbo kit....
I'll make the decision a bit easier for you. The Rev9 kit is under $2k on Amazon right at $1,887. If you don't see it shortly, it might be because I bought the last one.
Turbo. all day. get ready to spend a few extra hunnit on wraps and blankets to keep it cool.
also buy the new and whole kit
just what you need is to buy the SC. and find out you are missing some bracket or tensioner that renders it useless. and un serviceable.
also buy the new and whole kit
just what you need is to buy the SC. and find out you are missing some bracket or tensioner that renders it useless. and un serviceable.
I wouldn't go with a procharger if you are going to track it. Vortech probably makes a better kit. I'd go turbo though if I were in your shoes.
If you want to spend a little more cash member JDM-V35 has a top-shelf header/turbo/down pipe twin kit that I think he's selling.
If you want to spend a little more cash member JDM-V35 has a top-shelf header/turbo/down pipe twin kit that I think he's selling.
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Yeah, the main reason for the extra HP is only for the track. Don't care if I have it on the street. Have several other cars with more power for the street.
So turbo over SC for track is the consensus it seems.
So turbo over SC for track is the consensus it seems.
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It seems like it but I would ask those who have SC'd track machines ... prob Terra is a good person to talk to
I'd prefer an SC on track. More linear, less heat, less components to go wrong. Both will give you 385 to the wheels, but one is a used HQ kit and the other is a new Chinese Ebay kit. Pick accordingly.
Sc or turbo for track use, ticking time bomb. Very few people successfully pull it off, most scatter the engine, run into heat problems or just get plagued with issue after issue and have no track time.
Ls swap is a smarter idea for track use
Ls swap is a smarter idea for track use
I have the rev9 kit(formerly godspeed) running 6psi. I'm around 310whp/350tq. Have 150k miles and it's been on for 6 years.
I had to hammer part of the downpipe so it didn't touch frame right after turbo.
Make a new custom a/c line(first one melted through)(I just cut it and bought 2' of line off eBay and used 4x regular worm-gear clamps and 2x house plumbing pex connectors
)
Buy a few extra v-band clamps(some welds might break on the ones it comes with it)
Use graphite gaskets on all v-band flanges or the exhaust will not seal(just went to parts store and looked through gaskets to find ones that fit)
Lastly drilled out a/c bracket hole larger to make fitment much much easier.
I had to hammer part of the downpipe so it didn't touch frame right after turbo.
Make a new custom a/c line(first one melted through)(I just cut it and bought 2' of line off eBay and used 4x regular worm-gear clamps and 2x house plumbing pex connectors
Buy a few extra v-band clamps(some welds might break on the ones it comes with it)
Use graphite gaskets on all v-band flanges or the exhaust will not seal(just went to parts store and looked through gaskets to find ones that fit)
Lastly drilled out a/c bracket hole larger to make fitment much much easier.
Last edited by iideadeyeii; Jun 21, 2019 at 07:44 AM.
Thread Starter
New Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 372
Likes: 49
From: North of Pitt. PA
I have the rev9 kit(formerly godspeed) running 6psi. I'm around 310whp/350tq. Have 150k miles and it's been on for 6 years.
I had to hammer part of the downpipe so it didn't touch frame right after turbo.
Make a new custom a/c line(first one melted through)(I just cut it and bought 2' of line off eBay and used 4x regular worm-gear clamps and 2x house plumbing pex connectors
)
Buy a few extra v-band clamps(some welds might break on the ones it comes with it)
Use graphite gaskets on all v-band flanges or the exhaust will not seal(just went to parts store and looked through gaskets to find ones that fit)
Lastly drilled out a/c bracket hole larger to make fitment much much easier.
I had to hammer part of the downpipe so it didn't touch frame right after turbo.
Make a new custom a/c line(first one melted through)(I just cut it and bought 2' of line off eBay and used 4x regular worm-gear clamps and 2x house plumbing pex connectors
Buy a few extra v-band clamps(some welds might break on the ones it comes with it)
Use graphite gaskets on all v-band flanges or the exhaust will not seal(just went to parts store and looked through gaskets to find ones that fit)
Lastly drilled out a/c bracket hole larger to make fitment much much easier.
There is 2 things about going Forced induction: boost and boost management. Well, there is a third component , heat and cooling!
In my opinion, Reliable = Supercharger and Power = Turbo.
Supercharger are easier to tune and manage. Turbo is more complicated but any good tuner should be able to handle it.
In term of cost, Supercharger will be cheaper to make reliable whereas Turbo will involve a good BoV and usually an aftermarket ECU to control everything which adds $2K to the original kit. Sc can be tuned in the original ECU, Turbo usually involves piggyback which introduced more things that can go wrong.
"Mechanical" boost control is a lot easier on a supercharger (linear boost) than a Turbo.And turbo boost spikes are what is dangerous to the engine since it introduced non-linear torque curves.
Power is addictive. you don't want to go S/C , then decide you want more power later on. used S/C prices are steady and you could probably resell it for what you paid for 1 or 2 years from now. Having a plan usually means better implementation of the F/I system.
In my opinion, Reliable = Supercharger and Power = Turbo.
Supercharger are easier to tune and manage. Turbo is more complicated but any good tuner should be able to handle it.
In term of cost, Supercharger will be cheaper to make reliable whereas Turbo will involve a good BoV and usually an aftermarket ECU to control everything which adds $2K to the original kit. Sc can be tuned in the original ECU, Turbo usually involves piggyback which introduced more things that can go wrong.
"Mechanical" boost control is a lot easier on a supercharger (linear boost) than a Turbo.And turbo boost spikes are what is dangerous to the engine since it introduced non-linear torque curves.
Power is addictive. you don't want to go S/C , then decide you want more power later on. used S/C prices are steady and you could probably resell it for what you paid for 1 or 2 years from now. Having a plan usually means better implementation of the F/I system.








