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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Upper control arm camber adjustment question

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Old 06-26-2020, 03:27 PM
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Bmsluite
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Default Upper control arm camber adjustment question

Okay I may be over thinking this.....actually I'm sure of it. But here goes anyways:

Soooooo......the shorter the upper A arm the more
camber right? Below are the directions



Old 06-26-2020, 03:31 PM
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travlee
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In theory...yes. are those the z1? Never seen any have the adjustment there, but also haven't had a 350 in 6 years
Old 06-26-2020, 03:44 PM
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Bmsluite
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Originally Posted by travlee
In theory...yes. are those the z1? Never seen any have the adjustment there, but also haven't had a 350 in 6 years
Nah, these are the GKtech ones. I wanted arms that had camber adjustability at the body. These were the only ones that did that.
Old 06-26-2020, 05:58 PM
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DarkZ03
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Only ones cheap enough for you not only ones lol. The Nismo adjust there and and others too, I think you can actually change without removal too.
Anyway shorter = negative camber and longer = positive camber
Old 06-26-2020, 06:16 PM
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Bmsluite
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Originally Posted by DarkZ03
Only ones cheap enough for you not only ones lol. The Nismo adjust there and and others too, I think you can actually change without removal too.
Anyway shorter = negative camber and longer = positive camber
Correct, lol. I drop tons of money on car parts. It's not fun for me then. I set them for just a slight increase of negative camber. I also greased up all the ball joints with lithium grease. I've found it doubles the life of those joints.
Old 06-26-2020, 09:15 PM
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DarkZ03
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You brave for using those type of joints for a street car lol. I personally feel like I'm taking a gamble with the compression rod ones.
Old 06-27-2020, 12:51 PM
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Bmsluite
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Originally Posted by DarkZ03
You brave for using those type of joints for a street car lol. I personally feel like I'm taking a gamble with the compression rod ones.
They really won't take much abuse being there. They should last a good long while. I don't drive it much in the rain and never in winter.

One thing you should know is that there are essentially two types of bushings in a car's suspension: handling bushings and comfort bushings. HANDLING bushings are the ones with a very small amount of rubber around them (ex. the upper control arm bushings) & then there are COMFORT bushings which take the brunt of the suspensions vibrations and absorbs bumps in the road (ex. compression rod bushings)

So handling bushings are fine being solid but you should never replace a comfort bushing with solid or poly. Honestly, you screwed up putting solid bushings in the compression rod spot. Unless you are totally slammed and had no choice.
Old 06-27-2020, 02:58 PM
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DarkZ03
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Originally Posted by Bmsluite
They really won't take much abuse being there. They should last a good long while. I don't drive it much in the rain and never in winter.

One thing you should know is that there are essentially two types of bushings in a car's suspension: handling bushings and comfort bushings. HANDLING bushings are the ones with a very small amount of rubber around them (ex. the upper control arm bushings) & then there are COMFORT bushings which take the brunt of the suspensions vibrations and absorbs bumps in the road (ex. compression rod bushings)

So handling bushings are fine being solid but you should never replace a comfort bushing with solid or poly. Honestly, you screwed up putting solid bushings in the compression rod spot. Unless you are totally slammed and had no choice.
The issue with bushings in general are the ones that articulate more will transfer more noise if replaced with a stiffer version, that being a reality they also a make the biggest difference if changed.
Poly should not be used for articulating bushings as it doesn't let it do it's job, which is why all of mine are being switched off of poly.
Seeing how much a compression rod can move on the road with rubber, changing suspension geometry would make you go solid too lol.
Old 06-27-2020, 05:21 PM
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Bmsluite
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Originally Posted by DarkZ03
The issue with bushings in general are the ones that articulate more will transfer more noise if replaced with a stiffer version, that being a reality they also a make the biggest difference if changed.
Poly should not be used for articulating bushings as it doesn't let it do it's job, which is why all of mine are being switched off of poly.
Seeing how much a compression rod can move on the road with rubber, changing suspension geometry would make you go solid too lol.
OK, do what you want. Your car
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