Just a thread for fun, bored and thought it’d be cool to see what y’all think my Z will end up putting down. Let’s put some realistic guesses out there and when I dyno it, see who was the closest. Picking the car up from the shop tomorrow after cam install.

Mods: 2006 350z automatic (non-revup)Intake:

AdminTuning 3.5” intake

NWP 75mm Throttle Body

Kinetix V+ Intake Plenum

Ported & Polished Lower Plenum

Ported & Polished Intake Manifold



Cams:

JWT 272 C8 Camshafts

JWT Valve Springs & Shims

Rev-up Oil Pump Upgrade



Exhaust:

DC Sports Ceramic Headers

1320 Resonated Test Pipes

ISR Performance Y-Pipe

Invidia N1 Exhaust



Fuel System: (e85)

Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

550cc Injectors



Rear End:

370z Sport 3.69 VLSD Differential
Also has transgo shift kit/valve body upgrade

Z will be Email Tuned by AdminTuning on E85

 

270-280hp

 

I love these!

I am gonna pickup the rear and depending on the dyno and the correction factor your tuner wants you to believe... 258hp

Automatic transmission will hurt quite a bit even with the Transgo -

The NWP 75mm TB is a good start and the Kinetix V+ (which I actually like) will help

Ported and polished intake will help if done right but you may have shot yourself in the foot if done wrong (OEM got this right from the factory).

Nice NA cams will help and your exhaust mods will all help.

Fuel system is stout, going E85 on a NA DE wont make as big of an impact as you think it will - the DE engine in an NA configuration is MBT-limited so additional timing (wont provide more power).

Being in Ok - closer to sea-level is good but depending on how hot it is during your dyno session may play a bigger factor … I can't imagine your IATs will be favorable in early-July!

 

My Rev-Up made 281 whp with EVERY bolt-on (see avatar pic). I didn't have cams, but had a stick. I'm guessing less than 281 whp.

 

I think I'm in the correct lane, he's not getting dyno tuned if i read correctly, he is getting an E-tune from Moncef (I'll be doing the same) I hope you have widebands so you can keep an eye on things.

 

I'm curious about this as I'm not too familiar with e-tunes other than you send your tuner your list of mods and they send you a map to flash the ECU, right?

If that's the case and you're not actually putting it on a physical dyno to see hp at the wheels, does it "guess" the hp at the crank using other metrics?

​​​​But, I'll play. My guess is 284 at the wheels.

 

If this were a 6MT my guess with a solid tune would be 295-305 but factoring in the AT I think Heel is about spot-on. Enjoy!

 

Heel, the way it works with someone like Moncef if you tell him your mods and he will send you a base map then you have to go out and do some logs of driving and pulls in 3rd or 4th, and send the logs to him so he can adjust the tune however it needs to be then you repeat again if needed. That's why I suggest having widebands if going this route.
Dyno is better of course.

 

I'm on a Z1 E-tune and would probably be better off without it as my car is targeting 11:1 AFR at WOT and when shifting at WOT can see as rich as 9s.
Needless to say, too much fuel lol

 

In my opinion - E-tunes aren't that great …

Yeah, tuner sends a safe tune, you load it to the car, and drive the car gingerly and datalog how the a car performs. Send everything to the tuner and the tuner will look at how close the actual AFRs are to target AFRs and make fuel changes. Usually, the tuner will look at the knock signal and adjust timing accordingly - no significant knock means you can add timing, if you are close to knock then you back timing off. Obviously there will be a cushion of comfort and factor of safety that a tuner will put into the tune as you cannot optimize timing from a road tune and same for fuel. A tuner will cover his a$$ by adding unnecessary fuel. Is E-tuning better than nothing, yes … but it's far from optimal. A dyno tune with a load bearing dyno is your best bet.

Moncef has been doing these cars for so long that he probably gets a customer pretty close with the starter map and then only needs a few iterations to get the car tuned well-enough.

If OP is E-tuning than is he going to go dyno for a hp reading?

 

Interesting. I guess if you're not close to a dyno, then that's your going to be your best option as far as tuning.

So, I guess back to my original question (and the above question) - how do we guess how much HP OP is going to make if he's e-tuning if there's no measurable way to determine the HP/TQ? I know his original post said he was going to dyno it. Wouldn't it make more sense to tune it on a dyno?

Or, is that just crazy talk?

 

well with intake and exhaust the car was tuned on a dyno by a shop that’s an hour away. They where inexperienced with uprev software and the tune wasn’t that great and I found out the hard way that the tune had removed my rev limiter (accidentally hit 8,000 rpm). Now having to have valves replaced along with The cam install. So I am having a e tune because it can be tuned by a tuner that actually knows the software and how to properly tune a Z. (Moncef at AdminTuning)

 

THIS.... that is exactly the problem,? for example here in IL not many if any know what they are doing with uprev, leading to the above issue.
Many shops down south will rally a group of people and fly him in to tune multiple cars. While in theory you can strap the car down to a dyno and tune OTA it's not something I would do. Alternatively you could rent a dyno to "safely" do your runs but that would put you down for at least another $300 or so.
Moncef at least knows what he's doing and if you have widebands like I do you can give him enough info to get you a 90% tune.
like i said dyno is better but not always an option, once I build my car I will dyno tune and if needed go to a Haltech which people can tune with here in IL.
OP just wants to dyno to get numbers?

 

If I could, I would 1000% take the car down to Houston to have Moncef tune it on his dyno. But between full time school and working a full time job It’s just not possible for me to make a trip like that :/

 

That's too bad. There are not any tuners listed on UpRev's website in Oklahoma. It looks like the closest are Arkansas, Kansas, and Texas.

Dark - whenever you're ready to dyno, I think AMS is pretty close to you. They're legit.

 

Yes AMS and Sound Performance, both very familiar with Nissans just not uprev lol

 

#Dynosty
Louisville KY. Sure it's a hike but they'll do it right.

 

I've considered Dynosty or Soho but we'll see, I'm definitely getting my engine from either of the two though.

 

I dont disagree with you guys but Dynosty is gonna be a month or so out and we're talking about a rev-up, 5AT trans, non-turbo/SC, some bolts hoping to get close enough to 300hp to impress some people ... Dynosty will be $1000 to $1500 and will likely try to talk OP into a Haltech standalone (add another $2500).

Any tuner that has experience with Uprev and E85 can knock this out in a few hours pretty easy for $300 to $500...

If I were tuning this, I would put the absolute safest ign timing map in the car seeing that OP doesnt have a flex-fuel sensor (seeing that E is wildly inconsistent between gas stations, states, and time of year) and the tuner really only has to deal with air:fuel ratios, add a flame map, add no-lift shift, and add a valet mode all over a few emails. Damn Moncef, smartest guy in the room! .

 

Lol, wanna be his competitor? I would never tell someone to leave the state they live in for a bolt on NA tune and I wouldn't either, I was referring to going there after I put my supercharger on. At that point Haltech might be the safest bet for me anyway.