N/A 350z DE Build - Horsepower and Torque Guess
#1
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Just a thread for fun, bored and thought it’d be cool to see what y’all think my Z will end up putting down. Let’s put some realistic guesses out there and when I dyno it, see who was the closest. Picking the car up from the shop tomorrow after cam install.
Mods: 2006 350z automatic (non-revup)Intake:
AdminTuning 3.5” intake
NWP 75mm Throttle Body
Kinetix V+ Intake Plenum
Ported & Polished Lower Plenum
Ported & Polished Intake Manifold
Cams:
JWT 272 C8 Camshafts
JWT Valve Springs & Shims
Rev-up Oil Pump Upgrade
Exhaust:
DC Sports Ceramic Headers
1320 Resonated Test Pipes
ISR Performance Y-Pipe
Invidia N1 Exhaust
Fuel System: (e85)
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
550cc Injectors
Rear End:
370z Sport 3.69 VLSD Differential
Also has transgo shift kit/valve body upgrade
Z will be Email Tuned by AdminTuning on E85
Mods: 2006 350z automatic (non-revup)Intake:
AdminTuning 3.5” intake
NWP 75mm Throttle Body
Kinetix V+ Intake Plenum
Ported & Polished Lower Plenum
Ported & Polished Intake Manifold
Cams:
JWT 272 C8 Camshafts
JWT Valve Springs & Shims
Rev-up Oil Pump Upgrade
Exhaust:
DC Sports Ceramic Headers
1320 Resonated Test Pipes
ISR Performance Y-Pipe
Invidia N1 Exhaust
Fuel System: (e85)
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
550cc Injectors
Rear End:
370z Sport 3.69 VLSD Differential
Also has transgo shift kit/valve body upgrade
Z will be Email Tuned by AdminTuning on E85
#3
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I love these!
I am gonna pickup the rear and depending on the dyno and the correction factor your tuner wants you to believe... 258hp
Automatic transmission will hurt quite a bit even with the Transgo -
The NWP 75mm TB is a good start and the Kinetix V+ (which I actually like) will help
Ported and polished intake will help if done right but you may have shot yourself in the foot if done wrong (OEM got this right from the factory).
Nice NA cams will help and your exhaust mods will all help.
Fuel system is stout, going E85 on a NA DE wont make as big of an impact as you think it will - the DE engine in an NA configuration is MBT-limited so additional timing (wont provide more power).
Being in Ok - closer to sea-level is good but depending on how hot it is during your dyno session may play a bigger factor … I can't imagine your IATs will be favorable in early-July!
I am gonna pickup the rear and depending on the dyno and the correction factor your tuner wants you to believe... 258hp
Automatic transmission will hurt quite a bit even with the Transgo -
The NWP 75mm TB is a good start and the Kinetix V+ (which I actually like) will help
Ported and polished intake will help if done right but you may have shot yourself in the foot if done wrong (OEM got this right from the factory).
Nice NA cams will help and your exhaust mods will all help.
Fuel system is stout, going E85 on a NA DE wont make as big of an impact as you think it will - the DE engine in an NA configuration is MBT-limited so additional timing (wont provide more power).
Being in Ok - closer to sea-level is good but depending on how hot it is during your dyno session may play a bigger factor … I can't imagine your IATs will be favorable in early-July!
#4
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My Rev-Up made 281 whp with EVERY bolt-on (see avatar pic). I didn't have cams, but had a stick. I'm guessing less than 281 whp.
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bealljk (07-03-2020)
#6
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I'm curious about this as I'm not too familiar with e-tunes other than you send your tuner your list of mods and they send you a map to flash the ECU, right?
If that's the case and you're not actually putting it on a physical dyno to see hp at the wheels, does it "guess" the hp at the crank using other metrics?
But, I'll play. My guess is 284 at the wheels.
If that's the case and you're not actually putting it on a physical dyno to see hp at the wheels, does it "guess" the hp at the crank using other metrics?
But, I'll play. My guess is 284 at the wheels.
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If this were a 6MT my guess with a solid tune would be 295-305 but factoring in the AT I think Heel is about spot-on. Enjoy!
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#8
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Heel, the way it works with someone like Moncef if you tell him your mods and he will send you a base map then you have to go out and do some logs of driving and pulls in 3rd or 4th, and send the logs to him so he can adjust the tune however it needs to be then you repeat again if needed. That's why I suggest having widebands if going this route.
Dyno is better of course.
Dyno is better of course.
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In my opinion - E-tunes aren't that great …
Yeah, tuner sends a safe tune, you load it to the car, and drive the car gingerly and datalog how the a car performs. Send everything to the tuner and the tuner will look at how close the actual AFRs are to target AFRs and make fuel changes. Usually, the tuner will look at the knock signal and adjust timing accordingly - no significant knock means you can add timing, if you are close to knock then you back timing off. Obviously there will be a cushion of comfort and factor of safety that a tuner will put into the tune as you cannot optimize timing from a road tune and same for fuel. A tuner will cover his a$$ by adding unnecessary fuel. Is E-tuning better than nothing, yes … but it's far from optimal. A dyno tune with a load bearing dyno is your best bet.
Moncef has been doing these cars for so long that he probably gets a customer pretty close with the starter map and then only needs a few iterations to get the car tuned well-enough.
If OP is E-tuning than is he going to go dyno for a hp reading?
Yeah, tuner sends a safe tune, you load it to the car, and drive the car gingerly and datalog how the a car performs. Send everything to the tuner and the tuner will look at how close the actual AFRs are to target AFRs and make fuel changes. Usually, the tuner will look at the knock signal and adjust timing accordingly - no significant knock means you can add timing, if you are close to knock then you back timing off. Obviously there will be a cushion of comfort and factor of safety that a tuner will put into the tune as you cannot optimize timing from a road tune and same for fuel. A tuner will cover his a$$ by adding unnecessary fuel. Is E-tuning better than nothing, yes … but it's far from optimal. A dyno tune with a load bearing dyno is your best bet.
Moncef has been doing these cars for so long that he probably gets a customer pretty close with the starter map and then only needs a few iterations to get the car tuned well-enough.
If OP is E-tuning than is he going to go dyno for a hp reading?
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Interesting. I guess if you're not close to a dyno, then that's your going to be your best option as far as tuning.
So, I guess back to my original question (and the above question) - how do we guess how much HP OP is going to make if he's e-tuning if there's no measurable way to determine the HP/TQ? I know his original post said he was going to dyno it. Wouldn't it make more sense to tune it on a dyno?
Or, is that just crazy talk?
So, I guess back to my original question (and the above question) - how do we guess how much HP OP is going to make if he's e-tuning if there's no measurable way to determine the HP/TQ? I know his original post said he was going to dyno it. Wouldn't it make more sense to tune it on a dyno?
Or, is that just crazy talk?
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#12
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Interesting. I guess if you're not close to a dyno, then that's your going to be your best option as far as tuning.
So, I guess back to my original question (and the above question) - how do we guess how much HP OP is going to make if he's e-tuning if there's no measurable way to determine the HP/TQ? I know his original post said he was going to dyno it. Wouldn't it make more sense to tune it on a dyno?
Or, is that just crazy talk?![Confused](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif)
So, I guess back to my original question (and the above question) - how do we guess how much HP OP is going to make if he's e-tuning if there's no measurable way to determine the HP/TQ? I know his original post said he was going to dyno it. Wouldn't it make more sense to tune it on a dyno?
Or, is that just crazy talk?
![Confused](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#13
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THIS.... that is exactly the problem,? for example here in IL not many if any know what they are doing with uprev, leading to the above issue.
Many shops down south will rally a group of people and fly him in to tune multiple cars. While in theory you can strap the car down to a dyno and tune OTA it's not something I would do. Alternatively you could rent a dyno to "safely" do your runs but that would put you down for at least another $300 or so.
Moncef at least knows what he's doing and if you have widebands like I do you can give him enough info to get you a 90% tune.
like i said dyno is better but not always an option, once I build my car I will dyno tune and if needed go to a Haltech which people can tune with here in IL.
OP just wants to dyno to get numbers?
Many shops down south will rally a group of people and fly him in to tune multiple cars. While in theory you can strap the car down to a dyno and tune OTA it's not something I would do. Alternatively you could rent a dyno to "safely" do your runs but that would put you down for at least another $300 or so.
Moncef at least knows what he's doing and if you have widebands like I do you can give him enough info to get you a 90% tune.
like i said dyno is better but not always an option, once I build my car I will dyno tune and if needed go to a Haltech which people can tune with here in IL.
OP just wants to dyno to get numbers?
Last edited by DarkZ03; 07-03-2020 at 01:18 PM.
#14
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THIS.... that is exactly the problem,? for example here in IL not many if any know what they are doing with uprev, leading to the above issue.
Many shops down south will rally a group of people and fly him in to tune multiple cars. While in theory you can strap the car down to a dyno and tune OTA it's not something I would do. Alternatively you could rent a dyno to "safely" do your runs but that would put you down for at least another $300 or so.
Moncef at least knows what he's doing and if you have widebands like I do you can give him enough info to get you a 90% tune.
like i said dyno is better but not always an option, once I build my car I will dyno tune and if needed go to a Haltech which people can tune with here in IL.
OP just wants to dyno to get numbers?
Many shops down south will rally a group of people and fly him in to tune multiple cars. While in theory you can strap the car down to a dyno and tune OTA it's not something I would do. Alternatively you could rent a dyno to "safely" do your runs but that would put you down for at least another $300 or so.
Moncef at least knows what he's doing and if you have widebands like I do you can give him enough info to get you a 90% tune.
like i said dyno is better but not always an option, once I build my car I will dyno tune and if needed go to a Haltech which people can tune with here in IL.
OP just wants to dyno to get numbers?
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03myfairlady (07-05-2020)
#19
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Any tuner that has experience with Uprev and E85 can knock this out in a few hours pretty easy for $300 to $500...
If I were tuning this, I would put the absolute safest ign timing map in the car seeing that OP doesnt have a flex-fuel sensor (seeing that E is wildly inconsistent between gas stations, states, and time of year) and the tuner really only has to deal with air:fuel ratios, add a flame map, add no-lift shift, and add a valet mode all over a few emails. Damn Moncef, smartest guy in the room! .
Last edited by bealljk; 07-04-2020 at 11:02 PM.
#20
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Lol, wanna be his competitor? I would never tell someone to leave the state they live in for a bolt on NA tune and I wouldn't either, I was referring to going there after I put my supercharger on. At that point Haltech might be the safest bet for me anyway.
Last edited by bealljk; 07-05-2020 at 08:43 AM.