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Finally got around to doing my headlights and just little things to the engine bay. Wheels still haven’t arrived so the KWv3s and other suspension parts are just sitting in a box . Also broke a few 10mm bolts as I was removing the bumper due to age and rust so I am replacing all of those w oem as well as new pop clips.
Here are some pics:
Work in progress. Just need to finish aiming them now. These are Depot lights w the Lighting Trendz Flow series and can be set to thousands of color options. Installed ZSPEC neochrome plenum bolts Updated engine bay look. Close up of passenger side.
Ugh, aiming these depots has not been so fun. Anyone know if orientation of bulb matters? I seem to have a hot spot i can’t get rid of. Also, there seems to be a step on my cutoff line. Wish these things came calibrated already.
So i think i have my lights dialed in and i'm happy w them. Only problem now is I have to crack them open and clean them because the guy that did my retrofit left finger prints on the inside and its annoying me and also a little condensation is getting in. I'll tackle this as a winter project.
On a separate note, after nearly a year wait, my TE37SLs have come in and i'm now selecting my tires. I'm debating on sticking w 245/35/19 fronts and 275/35/19 rears like i have now and i like, or trying out a bit beefier setup like 255/35/19 front and 285/35/19 rear. If anyone has any opinions i'd love to hear them. I'm leaning towards the beefier but am afraid of the truck look, lol.
Sorry - late to the party and missed your headlight question. I think the hotspot you're referring to is on the right side, correct?
It looks like the bulb may not be seated properly in the rear of the projector housing. You might want to double-check the orientation of how both bulbs are seated just to make sure. I'm assuming you're using D2S bulbs. They should seat snugly and flush in the projector with the return wire (that "bar thing" which connects the top of the bulb to the base) on the bottom.
Sorry - late to the party and missed your headlight question. I think the hotspot you're referring to is on the right side, correct?
It looks like the bulb may not be seated properly in the rear of the projector housing. You might want to double-check the orientation of how both bulbs are seated just to make sure. I'm assuming you're using D2S bulbs. They should seat snugly and flush in the projector with the return wire (that "bar thing" which connects the top of the bulb to the base) on the bottom.
thanks heel. I did reseat them and its better. The orientation was correct, maybe it just wasn’t sitting flush. Also the bulb has a notch that only lets it fit in a certain way. I’ll have to see if the bar is on the up side or down side. I seem to recall the bar being on the up side.
Also, if it helps anyone, apparently that step in the cutoff line is there for a reason. Its supposed to give the driver more visibility. Basically the cutoff on the passenger side is higher so that the road gets illuminated further on that side without blinding oncoming traffic. In the UK for instance, the cutoff would be higher on the opposite side for the same reason.
Waooooo 275 in the front? I thought that wasn't possible. I was scared to do that and i went 245 / 305 but i am in 20" on 8.5 / 10 width. Also i have Michellin 4PS that to me they run a litlle wider than other tires as they have the lip protection for the rims.
To be honest i have a little rubbing in the back but it is when a get a huge bump only. By the way with OEM height.
Waooooo 275 in the front? I thought that wasn't possible. I was scared to do that and i went 245 / 305 but i am in 20" on 8.5 / 10 width. Also i have Michellin 4PS that to me they run a litlle wider than other tires as they have the lip protection for the rims.
To be honest i have a little rubbing in the back but it is when a get a huge bump only. By the way with OEM height.
my current setup is 245/35 in the front on 19” w tein sport springs so i’m lowered and i have never rubbed. I’m a little nervous about the beefier setup and hope i dont have to roll the fenders.
Actually i used to have 245 / 35 and 275/30 for several years but the tires where Nankang so very low profile. I stayed the same on front but went a little higher with 295/35 on the rear because streets not to good here. Sorry for the confusion that i had 305 as i had to check the car and recertify. I got confused with my Mustang that has 305 on the rear.
I don't have in hand a perfect side pic but here is one so you get another idea with stock OEM springs. If you need a better pic side i can take it tomorrow.
I dropped the car off this week to get my rims and tires installed along w the coilovers and a proper alignment. I’ll be picking it up on Wednesday and can’t wait. Had to roll the rear fenders because of the new setup but thats ok.
Will probably be removing the retrofit lights soon. What a disaster they are. The person that did them left finger prints inside and condensation gets in and I don’t k ow if I want to deal w that headache. I’ll see if I can pick up another set of depots during a black friday sale. The depots themselves do a better job than my oem lights.
Also have to remove the CF steering wheel and reinstall. For some reason the horn doesn’t blow loudly and it only works if I push down hard on certain parts.
And I gotta replace some of the hardware for the front bumper too. if I get around to it I want to replace the rusty braces under the car too.
lastly i’m on a waitlist for a new motordyne exhaust and a new artpipe w cats they said they are making for the DE.
so these are some of my winter projects I’ll be working on.
This is the reason I'm against modified lights lol. If you are willing to drop that much money on a exhaust system why not get something other than Motordyne or do just like the brand?
08-22-2021, 06:29 AM
. Also broke a few 10mm bolts as I was removing the bumper due to age and rust so I am replacing all of those w oem as well as new pop clips. 
