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2008 350Z Tach in a 2005?

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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 12:02 PM
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Default 2008 350Z Tach in a 2005?

Hey Guys,
Is it possible to run the higher RPM tach from a 2008 350z in a 2005 350z? Would it be a direct swap or is the connectors different and is there any other issues I might face?

Thanks,
Ansar
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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 02:06 PM
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Issue #1 would be odometer error, and some states are very strict about this. Second, while I'm not sure about wiring issues, I suspect it won't be a big issue. But it'll be a bit lame to have a higher redline on the gauge when the engine won't support it. Third, why would you want to swap your gauge pod out in the first place?
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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 06:22 PM
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Fismo?
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dkmura
Issue #1 would be odometer error, and some states are very strict about this. Second, while I'm not sure about wiring issues, I suspect it won't be a big issue. But it'll be a bit lame to have a higher redline on the gauge when the engine won't support it. Third, why would you want to swap your gauge pod out in the first place?
Thanks for your input, and I agree that having a redline higher that the engine can support is lame but I have a built motor that can rev past my current RPM range and I really don't want to get a after market gauge. Maybe there is a way to use my same gauge and swap out the face and calibrate it to show the higher rpm?
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DarkZ03
Fismo?
Nope just a built DE motor.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 03:13 PM
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Hi Deathblow,

What's the new theoretical or safe limit on your built engine? The 2006 350Z's indicated redline is at 7K with the gauge maxing out at 8K, thus the cluster faceplate RPM scale didn't change when compared to 2003-2005. However the 2007/2008 with the HR changed the scale by bumping the max to 9K (since redline increased to 7500). What I'm getting at is, you could simply take the OEM faceplate from a 6MT 06 350Z and swap it into your original cluster. This would increase the indicated redline up to 7K compared to the previous 6500 and maintain the proper reading since the scaling doesn't change. This way you wouldn't have to worry about messing with the electronics (re-programming the cluster's stored odometer numbers) or dealing with warning lights coming on depending on the trim level of the vehicle (common ones are SLIP/TCS).

Just an idea. Still better than throwing an aftermarket tach in there.
-Icer




Last edited by icer5160; Sep 18, 2020 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 06:23 PM
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I mean are you revving past 8000 RPM? If you are I hope you have a dry sump or it won't last very long, not to mention DEs can't breath at those speeds without ITBs. Unless you are boosted, but even then why rev so high?
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by icer5160
Hi Deathblow,

What's the new theoretical or safe limit on your built engine? The 2006 350Z's indicated redline is at 7K with the gauge maxing out at 8K, thus the cluster faceplate RPM scale didn't change when compared to 2003-2005. However the 2007/2008 with the HR changed the scale by bumping the max to 9K (since redline increased to 7500). What I'm getting at is, you could simply take the OEM faceplate from a 6MT 06 350Z and swap it into your original cluster. This would increase the indicated redline up to 7K compared to the previous 6500 and maintain the proper reading since the scaling doesn't change. This way you wouldn't have to worry about messing with the electronics (re-programming the cluster's stored odometer numbers) or dealing with warning lights coming on depending on the trim level of the vehicle (common ones are SLIP/TCS).

Just an idea. Still better than throwing an aftermarket tach in there.
-Icer
Not a bad idea I wanted the 9k RPM and don't really care where the reline is indicated just so i know how high i'm reving it most likely 8.5-9k
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DarkZ03
I mean are you revving past 8000 RPM? If you are I hope you have a dry sump or it won't last very long, not to mention DEs can't breath at those speeds without ITBs. Unless you are boosted, but even then why rev so high?
So the max RPM we are going for is 9k with the twin turbo kit but we might back it off to a little over 8k. Just seeing if there was a more OEM look upgrade I could do to have a idea of where i'm shifting over 8k that the current gauge shows. I don't have ITB's and i don't plan on holding the RPM at that range for a long time but at the drag strip some times you might need a few more rpm's in a gear. We still have some tuning to be done so this will all depend on how the powerband looks and if we are caring the power that high.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:37 AM
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Oh when I have a chance to get the car out I will take a video so you can hear how the car sounds.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 07:27 AM
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DB - yes, it's possible and they are essentially 100% compatible, plug & play.

*my caveat is that I did this myself with a borrowed gauge cluster (hat tip to TCode) and it was plug & play but I do not know if the RPMs read on HR gauge cluster were true to the actual RPMs - I assume they were and I had no reason to not to believe the HR gauge.

I have considered this swap but I have always had better places to spend the $150 and I actually don't like spinning my engine past +/-6k RPMs if I don't have to...yea, your hp will climb but you're losing torque and the inertial forces on the internals climb exponentially with engine speed and I'd rather not put my engine through that if I don't have to(but that's just me).

What DK is saying about odometer fraud should play a factor, so don't toss your original odometer and if you sell the car it would be wise to disclose that you used a second odometer and disclose the true mileage on the car.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bealljk
DB - yes, it's possible and they are essentially 100% compatible, plug & play.

*my caveat is that I did this myself with a borrowed gauge cluster (hat tip to TCode) and it was plug & play but I do not know if the RPMs read on HR gauge cluster were true to the actual RPMs - I assume they were and I had no reason to not to believe the HR gauge.

I have considered this swap but I have always had better places to spend the $150 and I actually don't like spinning my engine past +/-6k RPMs if I don't have to...yea, your hp will climb but you're losing torque and the inertial forces on the internals climb exponentially with engine speed and I'd rather not put my engine through that if I don't have to(but that's just me).

What DK is saying about odometer fraud should play a factor, so don't toss your original odometer and if you sell the car it would be wise to disclose that you used a second odometer and disclose the true mileage on the car.
Thanks for the info I don't plan on getting rid of the car as I have had it for over 10 years just been in different stages of the build and don't plan on getting rid of the old gauge maybe just swap it and I can test how accurate the gauge is on the dyno. I was just curious if anyone has done it and how hard it would be to do. At this point the car is just a fun project not a daily or anything I need to worry about too much. Here is a sneak peek lol.




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