What should I do about cold air intake
#1
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So my mod list right now is Hitachi 75mm throttle body
Plenum Spacer
Isr Test Pipes (Non Resonated)
Invidia Gemini Exaust
Kinetix V+ intake manifold
it does have a hot air intake previous owner installed I don’t know what brand so I want to change it and get a tune
I was looking at the Z1 cold air intake race version which I know is a 3” cold air and I was thinking I’m going to get tuned by Z1 through etune since there are no tuners in my area but I was wondering if y’all had any input on the Z1 cold air, is it good should I get it or is there any different route that y’all think would be better
I did see the 4” limp mode tuning intake but I’m iffy on it
and then some people run the admin 3.5” intake but I just don’t know what to do but My first go to was the Z1 race intake
also the car is my daily which shouldn’t change much but it might change your point of view
Plenum Spacer
Isr Test Pipes (Non Resonated)
Invidia Gemini Exaust
Kinetix V+ intake manifold
it does have a hot air intake previous owner installed I don’t know what brand so I want to change it and get a tune
I was looking at the Z1 cold air intake race version which I know is a 3” cold air and I was thinking I’m going to get tuned by Z1 through etune since there are no tuners in my area but I was wondering if y’all had any input on the Z1 cold air, is it good should I get it or is there any different route that y’all think would be better
I did see the 4” limp mode tuning intake but I’m iffy on it
and then some people run the admin 3.5” intake but I just don’t know what to do but My first go to was the Z1 race intake
also the car is my daily which shouldn’t change much but it might change your point of view
Last edited by JUSTINC2001; 12-27-2020 at 03:53 PM.
#2
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Like I said in your other post, my experience with Z1 tuning was terrible. Also had their intake, wasn't impressed, I sold it and now have the Injen. If you plan to stay NA just go for the Admin and get a tune from him as well, you won't regret it, trust me. 3" is too small for any significant power, also all of this is from EXPERIENCE not assumptions.
#4
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to be honest that was my previous plan but then he told me that to get tuned from admin for my 03 Z I would need a afr gague and I just wanted to do the simplistic thing and stick with not having to get one
Like I said in your other post, my experience with Z1 tuning was terrible. Also had their intake, wasn't impressed, I sold it and now have the Injen. If you plan to stay NA just go for the Admin and get a tune from him as well, you won't regret it, trust me. 3" is too small for any significant power, also all of this is from EXPERIENCE not assumptions.
#5
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Also one thing I just looked at on the admin website on their recommended parts they said for a 03-06 they recomend Z1 cold air intake idk why and for a 07-08 they recomend the admin intakes I might email him and ask why that is
Edit: just tried emailing him but he’s not taking business till the 6th
Edit: just tried emailing him but he’s not taking business till the 6th
Like I said in your other post, my experience with Z1 tuning was terrible. Also had their intake, wasn't impressed, I sold it and now have the Injen. If you plan to stay NA just go for the Admin and get a tune from him as well, you won't regret it, trust me. 3" is too small for any significant power, also all of this is from EXPERIENCE not assumptions.
Last edited by JUSTINC2001; 12-28-2020 at 04:22 AM.
#6
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Yeah talk to Moncef and see what he says, I'd almost say a wideband is needed if you are going to tune.
I'll sum up my story just so you know why I say what I did:
I got the Uprev basic and E-tune from Z1, at the time I did not have widebands...from the time I put the map in the car sounded different (in a bad way) and almost worse that before.
Contact them, no answer, later installed my widebands and the AFR was all over the place and hitting as rich as high 9s under WOT.
Paid Moncef to re-tune and even his "base" map was miles ahead of what I got from Z1.
As far as their intake goes, the welds were really uneven and sharp, nowhere near the quality of the the Injen and more expensive.
I'll sum up my story just so you know why I say what I did:
I got the Uprev basic and E-tune from Z1, at the time I did not have widebands...from the time I put the map in the car sounded different (in a bad way) and almost worse that before.
Contact them, no answer, later installed my widebands and the AFR was all over the place and hitting as rich as high 9s under WOT.
Paid Moncef to re-tune and even his "base" map was miles ahead of what I got from Z1.
As far as their intake goes, the welds were really uneven and sharp, nowhere near the quality of the the Injen and more expensive.
#7
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Yeah I think I’m gonna change my route and just get a gague with afr and go to admin, I already emailed aem but I don’t know about you but my laptop does not have a serial port for the gague did u buy like an adapter to make it usb or where u able to use the serial port, I talked to people on Facebook group and they said intakes Z1 better overall, admin for power
but I’m gonna talk to admin whenever he gets back
but I’m gonna talk to admin whenever he gets back
Yeah talk to Moncef and see what he says, I'd almost say a wideband is needed if you are going to tune.
I'll sum up my story just so you know why I say what I did:
I got the Uprev basic and E-tune from Z1, at the time I did not have widebands...from the time I put the map in the car sounded different (in a bad way) and almost worse that before.
Contact them, no answer, later installed my widebands and the AFR was all over the place and hitting as rich as high 9s under WOT.
Paid Moncef to re-tune and even his "base" map was miles ahead of what I got from Z1.
As far as their intake goes, the welds were really uneven and sharp, nowhere near the quality of the the Injen and more expensive.
I'll sum up my story just so you know why I say what I did:
I got the Uprev basic and E-tune from Z1, at the time I did not have widebands...from the time I put the map in the car sounded different (in a bad way) and almost worse that before.
Contact them, no answer, later installed my widebands and the AFR was all over the place and hitting as rich as high 9s under WOT.
Paid Moncef to re-tune and even his "base" map was miles ahead of what I got from Z1.
As far as their intake goes, the welds were really uneven and sharp, nowhere near the quality of the the Injen and more expensive.
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#8
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Yeah I think I’m gonna change my route and just get a gague with afr and go to admin, I already emailed aem but I don’t know about you but my laptop does not have a serial port for the gague did u buy like an adapter to make it usb or where u able to use the serial port, I talked to people on Facebook group and they said intakes Z1 better overall, admin for power
but I’m gonna talk to admin whenever he gets back
but I’m gonna talk to admin whenever he gets back
I still stand by my choice of Stillen>Z1, hell I'd probably trade my Injen for a Stillen, I like my Injen but it is not DD friendly as the filter sits right in the grille. I did happen to go from the Stillen to the Z1, so again from having both back to back I'd go Stillen. I think the Z1 intakes for the HR are really good so just make sure you specify DE when asking around.
Alternatively you can have one made similar to the Admin but with a velocity stack, that would be the best.
As far as the gauge goes, what do you want a serial port for and also do you want a single setup or dual?
#9
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I mean if the Admin makes more power then that's what I would get unless you want to be able to run a base map, but in that case you're only options are stock sized intakes.
I still stand by my choice of Stillen>Z1, hell I'd probably trade my Injen for a Stillen, I like my Injen but it is not DD friendly as the filter sits right in the grille. I did happen to go from the Stillen to the Z1, so again from having both back to back I'd go Stillen. I think the Z1 intakes for the HR are really good so just make sure you specify DE when asking around.
Alternatively you can have one made similar to the Admin but with a velocity stack, that would be the best.
As far as the gauge goes, what do you want a serial port for and also do you want a single setup or dual?
I still stand by my choice of Stillen>Z1, hell I'd probably trade my Injen for a Stillen, I like my Injen but it is not DD friendly as the filter sits right in the grille. I did happen to go from the Stillen to the Z1, so again from having both back to back I'd go Stillen. I think the Z1 intakes for the HR are really good so just make sure you specify DE when asking around.
Alternatively you can have one made similar to the Admin but with a velocity stack, that would be the best.
As far as the gauge goes, what do you want a serial port for and also do you want a single setup or dual?
and why I need the gague is for afr readings you have to have it when tuning 2003 and early 2004 models something with the ecu and not reading it or not correctly i don’t know
#11
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I was going to do single and just stick it in the y pipe probably where is centers out because I do have test pipes so it wouldn’t mislead the gague, compared to if I still had cats I would have to stick it before them I think and for the serial cable I’m going to have to find an adapter for serial cable to usb because that’s all my laptop has
#12
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You don't need to use a serial cable for tuning as it can't really interface with Uprev. The way I did my tuning is I took the video of my gauge along with the pull. You can also use a dual setup that emulate narrowbands so the car can run off of them and you will be able to log them in the Uprev software. I'm more of a fan of a dual setup so you know if one bank is running rich or lean.
#13
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https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ines-zt-4-zr-4
this is what I'm using except with a nDash display
this is what I'm using except with a nDash display
#14
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https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ines-zt-4-zr-4
this is what I'm using except with a nDash display
this is what I'm using except with a nDash display
#16
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it does look clean but I’m not trying to spend that money right now, and also the old owner put a whole through a afr gague by the shifter so I’m gonna go with aem for now just to fill the hole and later if I want to change my mind I might go that route
#17
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#18
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I think 4" is too much unless you have cams and stuff IMO. There is also a small dynamic not many talk about because "numbers" and all, but the less bends you have the quicker the response will be. There are members that actually saw an increase in 60' times by adding bends. Nismo uses a straight pipe with one bend, Admin is the same and Stillen uses the stock pipe so I'm inclined to believe it's for a reason. It creates instant throttle response and the down side is slightly increased temps when standing which IMO is worth it, you can also have a box to help shield it frome heat. Overall the less bends the better and the LMT has extra bends from what I can tell.
#19
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To add, after 6 intake setups I strongly believe what Nismo did with the S1/S2 is the best setup, just go with a 3.5" as opposed to 3". Don't know if it's possible though, might require a 3D printed box, then you need an upgraded venturi. I was going to do that but then I decided NA wasn't going to get me what I wanted.
#20
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To add, after 6 intake setups I strongly believe what Nismo did with the S1/S2 is the best setup, just go with a 3.5" as opposed to 3". Don't know if it's possible though, might require a 3D printed box, then you need an upgraded venturi. I was going to do that but then I decided NA wasn't going to get me what I wanted.