icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Hello Fellow 350Z enthusiasts! I'm creating this thread as a method of documenting my take on upgrading from the OEM Non-Bose system (2006 Enthusiast Coupe) to a modern DD Touchscreen radio with features that most users would be happy with. Such as backup camera, wireless carplay, Sirius XM, and high-res audio support. I wish I took more pictures of the entire process, but I think I covered the most important points. I will also list out all the hardware & accessories I'm using for the infotainment upgrade. I hope some of you find this information helpful. I did a lot of research before starting the install and I hope that this will help add clarity for those less familiar with the 350Z.

A quick note about my installation philosophy. My Z is primarily a daily driver/commuter and I want to maintain the best of both performance/function and aesthetics. A huge subwoofer adding weight and taking up space in the trunk isn't my style. I also don't require the power of a discrete amplifier. I went through that phase in my youth and got it out of my system shall we say? My goal with this upgrade is to improve overall sound quality based on my listening preferences, while keeping modifications to the factory wiring and interior at a minimum. In short, everything I'm installing is easily reversible, no permanent modifications are being made. The aesthetics of the install also need to blend in with the OEM interior. This means no large panel gaps, clashing colors, or new appendages slapped on the dash.

Starting with the hardware & accessories.
1) Kenwood DMX908S (Double Din Touchscreen Radio)
2) SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner
3) Axxess ASWC-1 (Steering Wheel Control Adapter)
4) HDMEU "Amazon Special" Backup Camera for Nissan's (integrated with lic plate bulb lense)
5) Metra 70-7550 Receiver Wiring Harness
6) Metra 72-7401 Speaker Wiring Harness (Front)
7) Metra 72-7400 Speaker Wiring Harness (Rear)
8) Focal ASE 165 S (Front Component, slim design)
8) Focal ACX 165 (Rear Coaxial, standard depth)
10) Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings
11) American International NDK744 Dash Kit (For faceplate bezel)
12) Boom Mat (Sound/Vibration insulation)
13) Miscellaneous items - solder, heatshrink, crimp terminals, wire sheathing, tessa tape, electrical tape, zip-ties, velcro, etc.

I purchased most of these items from Crutchfield. Their support is legendary and their prices/selection are excellent. The only items I had to procure elsewhere were the Backup Camera, Dash Kit, Boom Mat, and miscellaneous items.

The Plan...
If you've been following my Z refresh updates in the "What have you done to your Z..." thread, then you will know that I've spent a considerable amount of time and effort repainting all the interior pieces that have the garbage OEM paint (I have a 2nd set of pieces). That work is complete. Because installing the new sound system requires the removal of said pieces, I'm tackling both at the same time. To keep things organized, I'm breaking the installation down into two phases.
Phase-1 covers installing the headunit (Kenwood), backup camera, mic, gps, & sirius receiver. . Also includes replacing dash pieces I repainted (center waterfall, shifter bezel, gauge cluster).
Phase-2 covers installing the front and rear speakers, adding the fast rings and insulating the doors and rear speaker boxes. Also includes replacing the door card pieces I repainted (switch bezels & ac vent bezels).

I just finished Phase-1. So let's get into it.

I started with building my wire harness adapter. Crutchfield provides a very easy to follow wiring chart that's color matched based on your radio selection and vehicle. This covered about 85% of the wiring and the process went smoothly. I don't like butt connectors, so I soldered everything using high quality Kester and shrink tubed it all. Things started to get interesting when it came to the Axxess steering wheel adapter, although this goes against the Axxess' instructions, I chose to deploy Posi-taps rather than direct splicing (5 wires total, 3 of which are for the ASWC-1). I chose Posi-taps because they are very reliable, easy to install, and easy to remove without cutting/hacking the factory wiring.

After I had most of the wire harness work done, it was time to start dismantling the interior. I started with removing the main gauge cluster, followed by removing the shifter bezel and center waterfall. The center waterfall can be a pain since the OEM radio comes out with it as one solid piece. There's not much slack on the OEM harness, so make sure you cover up the shift **** to prevent scratching/damaging things while you fight to unplug the harness. After the main waterfall is out, I recommend removing the Unified AC Amplifier box (computer box with large ribbon cable that mounts underneath the radio). Removing this piece makes it much easier to gain access to the VSS wire and test fit the new radio while you plan your wire routing.

Next, I removed the lower dash panels on the driver side. I needed access to the M12 harness on the driver's side and my wire routing for the backup camera and mic was done on the passenger side. I also needed to connect up my USB-A pass-thru port from the Scosche adapter I installed last year, to the Kenwood USB port. I covered this in another thread, but in short, I replaced the passenger lower dash 12V outlet with the Scosche adapter, the USB data cable on the adapter has simply been tucked away waiting for the new stereo. For this phase, I decided to wait on removing the passenger dash panels, I was more interested in making sure my backup camera worked before I started routing the wiring.

Once those panels were out of the way, it was time to do a "dry run" with the new Head unit. I’m glad I did! I quickly discovered that both the backup camera and the ASWC-1 were not working. After some quick troubleshooting, I discovered one of the bullet style crimps for the 12V+ to the camera was flakey and that a few of my Posi-Taps for the steering wheel control wires failed to pierce! Both cases came down to user/installer error and were easily resolved. Another test run after corrections and I had picture from the camera and started getting programming responses from the ASWC-1.

Head Unit - Wiring test.

My thoughts on the Axxess adapter. It’s a good unit, it works very well and installation from a wiring standpoint is straightforward. The programming instructions could be better. I discovered quickly that the software utility for upgrading the firmware doesn’t program the button inputs/mapping, it’s strictly for changing the function bindings, meaning you still need to go through the manual button or key assignment process. Because I’m mentally challenged, this took me about an hour to figure out what I was doing wrong. I read the instructions, but missed a crucial piece of information when it comes to key assignments. Lesson learned (again!), read the instructions fully and thoroughly, don’t use the Cliffs Notes version!

SWC Posi-taps on factory harness

3.5mm jack from Axxess to Kenwood.

The Axxess ASWC-1 brainbox and main wiring.

For the GPS and SIRIUS receivers, installation worked nicely. I routed these to the factory location Nissan used if you had a NAV equipped 350Z. The OEM gps location sits in the dash, forward of the main gauge cluster. The top dash piece on the driver’s side is removable and exposes the factory mount location. I re-used this little shelf area for both. I put the gps slightly closer to the driver and the Sirius receiver closer to the windshield glass (see pic). It’s a perfect location. It’s well hidden, still receives solid signal, and routing the wiring is a breeze. I had always assumed that the NAV equipped Z33s had the antenna on the roof (shark fin). Side note, while working in this area, I discovered the driver’s side dash was slightly loose, the root cause was the main bolt securing the upper dash. These dash bolts have a built-in spacer, similar to many valve covers bolts, this design prevents over torqueing and breaking things. Overtime, I guess the dash plastic yielded. I added a thin washer to tighten things back up, no more dash movement on the driver’s side (YAY!).

GPS & SIRIUS antennae location. Also the problem bolt on the left side.

I need to break for dinner now, so I’m going to continue this in another post.
Stay tuned!
Cheers!
-Icer