paulie65

My passenger window died over the weekend. A couple of years ago the driver side window stopped working and I got an internet window motor put it in and it's been trouble free since. Logic made me come to the conclusion the same thing would happen again- not so says the wise man. So I have gone through all the usual suspects and came up empty handed, What wires can I probe with my multi meter to determine if there is indeed power. Any suggestions? I am on the Covid budget- lost my job to Covid so I really need this to be on the cheap.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Have you doubled checked the window lockout button?

Kiyomi McKinley

So I don’t know if your window won’t go up but I just went through the same hassle on my ‘03 and bought a new motor and switch and my window would only go down. I finally started looking into the power portion of it all and checked fuses first. I found a YouTube video that had all the operations and locations of the fuses. Under the hood, the long skinny fuse box has a wierd shaped F40 fuse. I jiggled that a round a bit and my window started to go up once a put the battery on. After that I did the window motor reset procedure and it works fine again. Not sure if this will help you or not but it’s worth a try I’d say.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Hi Paulie,

I went through a similar troubleshooting process on a 1999 Toyota 4Runner, for the Power Mirrors. For me, I had to determine if it was the mirror motor, mirror switch on the Driver's side door that was causing the issue, or a potential wiring fault (broken or corroded wire somewhere). I used a Power Probe III to connect directly to the mirrors wiring (removing the switch from the equation) and supply 12V (on/off). From here I was able to determine that my OEM wiring was good as I was able to move both Passenger and Driver Side mirrors on their X/Y axis. The root cause was the switch module. I took it apart and immediately found loads of corrosion. The grease inside had dried up and I suspect some minor water intrusion from the car being parked with the window cracked open in the rain caused this. Some light sanding and fresh electric grease resolved the issue (and saved me $$$).

TLDR....
1) Get a wiring diagram (this will help determine the colors for the wires you want to test).
2) Use a volt meter or more advanced tool like a Power Probe to test the wiring or window switch.
3) Make your repair based on sound evidence/troubleshooting.

There's also a very good thread on these forums for how to repair/rebuild your window motor:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...dow-motor.html
&
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video...anent-fix.html

Usually the window motor itself is the root cause, however sometimes the regulator can fail (plastic pulleys can crack or break, braided steel cable could also break). Do you hear any noise from the window motor when using your switch? Does it even attempt to move? A simple check for this would be to put the key in ACC, turn on your dome light, and then try to use your switch for the affected window. If the dome light dims, then we know the motor is drawing current/load and your switch/wiring is good. If nothing happens with the dome light, then power is not making it to the window motor indicating a faulty switch or wiring.

-Icer