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Evening everyone, have a question about front camber. I have a 2006 base with stock wheels and tires. I purchased 18x10.5 wheels all around and 275/35/18 tires for them. The stock setup was wearing the inside of the fronts and I'm wanting to prevent this on the new rubbers. From what I have read, the car inherently has a negative camber problem on the front from the factory causing this issue and causing them to eat front tires very quickly. I assume that I will need to replace the front uppers with adjustable ones and am wondering what I should shoot for as far as camber is concerned. I think the static camber from the factory is about 1.5 to 1.9 negative and I know that will increase with the wider footprint and I want to come up with a happy medium to prevent eating up my expensive brand new tires. Any input would be appreciated.............-Curtis
The negative camber is a trait not a problem, the issue they had was with toe. If you want the car to handle as intended leave camber at factory minimum. You can at least rotate so it shouldn't be bad.
The negative camber is a trait not a problem, the issue they had was with toe. If you want the car to handle as intended leave camber at factory minimum. You can at least rotate so it shouldn't be bad.
So ur saying the factory toe specs are incorrect? Airman Cronaur requesting you elaborate sir.
Evening everyone, have a question about front camber. I have a 2006 base with stock wheels and tires. I purchased 18x10.5 wheels all around and 275/35/18 tires for them. The stock setup was wearing the inside of the fronts and I'm wanting to prevent this on the new rubbers. From what I have read, the car inherently has a negative camber problem on the front from the factory causing this issue and causing them to eat front tires very quickly. I assume that I will need to replace the front uppers with adjustable ones and am wondering what I should shoot for as far as camber is concerned. I think the static camber from the factory is about 1.5 to 1.9 negative and I know that will increase with the wider footprint and I want to come up with a happy medium to prevent eating up my expensive brand new tires. Any input would be appreciated.............-Curtis
Would recommend you have alignment checked (with new wheel/tire setup on) before rushing out for new FUCA.
Factory camber range setting is NOT that low (that is, negative). Front range is like 0.2 to -1.3 right-left (whereas rear wears a fair bit more negative camber, -1.1 to -2.1 also right-left). Test alignment will reveal your course of action...
If your front camber and/or other specs are out of that range - maybe due to lowering or suspension damage - then you might want to go with adjustable FUCA.
The toe issue that was mentioned may/may not be an issue here. Some of the early (2003-2004.5) cars had horrible tire feathering issues and were "sort of" addressed with suspension revisions 2004 mid year (hence 2004.5). As of '06, the problem was pretty much addressed. But, as above, if you are concerned or for reasons mentioned, your alignment settings can not be brought into range, adjustable FUCA will give you near full control over your alignment settings. $250-$1000, take your choice. I personally run middle-range SPC FUCAs and have had zero issues with them on my street/hills-no-track car.
Side word of caution: 275/35-18 square is out of the rolling diameter range between front and rear with the front OK but the rear is 1" shorter than factory. In a car with VDC or TCS, this might be a problem but as yours is a Base model, should be OK. But with increase in front grip, the car's steering attitude will have changed some and may feel a bit tail happy when pushing it. Just be careful and get used to the "new behavior" before pushing 10/10ths.
FWIW - I run a 9.5/10.5 setup on all my wheels 18 or 19, predominantly 255/35-19F 275/35-19R (effective same diameters as 40 aspect 18s) and run my camber angles at the lowest/negative end of the the F-R ranges to at least try and preserve the tires a bit. I've experimented going with more camber F-R to try to increase grip at speed but have noticed little in the way of improvement for MY type of driving so backed down to "within range". YMMV
Nope, stock base brakes. Plenty of room in rear but the best I can figure it's gonna take about an inch of spacer on the front. I'll do the same on all to keep it from looking like a pulling truck..............-Curtis
Nope, stock base brakes. Plenty of room in rear but the best I can figure it's gonna take about an inch of spacer on the front. I'll do the same on all to keep it from looking like a pulling truck..............-Curtis
Something weird here. Never seen a wheel that wouldn't clear standard brakes on a Z (which is why I asked about upgrade). Where are they interfering? On the barrel or the spokes/mounting surface? What wheels are these?
I have run over two dozen sets on my standard brakes 03 (both 18 and 19) and I have NEVER run into any brake clearance issues.
And, on top of that, you're thinking a 20mm spacer? That makes your effective offset 0. A 10.5" wide wheel will NOT fit without rubbing at zero offset. You WILL need to roll the guards and possibly pull the fenders or run a ridiculous amount of camber to clear - and I needn't say how stupid it is to run camber for clearance not performance. Performance which will be in the sewer at that point as well as destroy the tires. (Kind of your initial point of protecting the tires). You know, where the guy selling used tires/wheels says "There's inside wear but you can flip 'em." (Wow, ouch.)
But ya, show or at least tell us what wheels you bought because "something ain't right"....
Yeah with base that's just not right, I have the Nismo brakes on a +25 (the number is slightly irrelevant when it comes to brakes) but the "disc" or spoke profile does matter. Like Mic said, I don't think I've seen anything not clear the base brakes.
I.ve got there rears on and there's plenty of room. I have the fronts on a cart with about 3/4 space between wheel and hub and you can see the problem. Here's the wheels and rubbers 3/4 inch between wheel and hub Rears no problem Back of wheel Fronts sitting on cart with 3/4 space
On reviewing the order, I see now that the offset is +40, don't know how that happened. Seller's "will it fit" guide says they will fit. I could have sworn I speced +20 in the search by member's advice but I guess I should have looked closer.........-Curtis
Now I just gotta figure out how to put said crap back in said horse. If I use 20mm spacers then that will put my offset at +20, where it needs to be right?.........-Curtis
Now I just gotta figure out how to put said crap back in said horse. If I use 20mm spacers then that will put my offset at +20, where it needs to be right?.........-Curtis
Spacers will probably give you correct brake clearance BUT may also present a fender clearance problem. I did look at the listing and it does indeed say 40 but it's got weird construction inside the barrel, almost like the wheel face is on a raised step in the barrel causing the interference. Well, either way, no fit... weird. Good luck.
Yeah that makes sense now, stepped lip on a 18" wheel should have gone 19" for that or a different design, I'm not a fan of buying wheels only to make them fit with spacers but it's your car.
Yeah that makes sense now, stepped lip on a 18" wheel should have gone 19" for that or a different design, I'm not a fan of buying wheels only to make them fit with spacers but it's your car.
I'm not a fan of buying ANYTHING that won't fit but I'm into it now with no other way out..........-Curtis
I mean as unreasonable as it may seem, dismount the tires, sell the wheels and buy new ones...you are only adding more weight to the equation with the spacers too.
06-03-2021, 09:17 PM
about front camber
