Electric failure…already changed everything
#1
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Hello all! I’ve used the forum in the past for some guidance but decided to finally register and hopefully help me solve the situation with my 350z.
I own a 350z HR 07 with 100K miles.
These are my codes:
P0335 - Present even if I clear codes.
P2135 - Will pop up after a few minutes and sent my car into limp mode
P2101 - Will appear also after a few minutes.
Another weird issue I have since this failure happened is that my rpm’s move very randomly when accelerating(just on dash, not on motor). I’ll leave a video.
Originally I thought this could be a faulty cluster but upon replacing, the problem persists. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hlg1p7810n...%20PM.mov?dl=0
I’ve changed everything that could be the problem:
1. Crankshaft position sensor - couple of times.
2. Throttle body - both new from Rock auto (did relear procedure)
3. Pedal Sensor - Used but got exactly same behavior (Did relearn procedures)
4. Car had a different used ECM so I was thinking that could be the reason. So Last week I bought a full set: ECM, BCM, Ignition from a 08 HR. (Everything replaced with disconnected battery).
After replacing all these things above and still having same fault codes and rpms “shaking” condition, now I’m thinking Grounds or short wires.
Does anyone have some suggestions on what could be the problem? what to check next? Grounds locations?
I hate that I love this car but haven’t been able to drive and enjoy it.
Thanks to all the community!
I own a 350z HR 07 with 100K miles.
These are my codes:
P0335 - Present even if I clear codes.
P2135 - Will pop up after a few minutes and sent my car into limp mode
P2101 - Will appear also after a few minutes.
Another weird issue I have since this failure happened is that my rpm’s move very randomly when accelerating(just on dash, not on motor). I’ll leave a video.
Originally I thought this could be a faulty cluster but upon replacing, the problem persists. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hlg1p7810n...%20PM.mov?dl=0
I’ve changed everything that could be the problem:
1. Crankshaft position sensor - couple of times.
2. Throttle body - both new from Rock auto (did relear procedure)
3. Pedal Sensor - Used but got exactly same behavior (Did relearn procedures)
4. Car had a different used ECM so I was thinking that could be the reason. So Last week I bought a full set: ECM, BCM, Ignition from a 08 HR. (Everything replaced with disconnected battery).
After replacing all these things above and still having same fault codes and rpms “shaking” condition, now I’m thinking Grounds or short wires.
Does anyone have some suggestions on what could be the problem? what to check next? Grounds locations?
I hate that I love this car but haven’t been able to drive and enjoy it.
Thanks to all the community!
#2
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Could be a number of things causing these issues. I strongly recommend using only OEM sensors/components when it comes to items such as Crankshaft and Cam position sensors, if you replaced the crank sensor with an aftermarket, that could be causing your issues. Also note that if you recently had a clutch job done and the flywheel was replaced but not indexed properly to the crank, you will have starting/idle issues. You may also want to check your throttle body harness circuit. Look for damage to the wiring, check continuity, etc.
Good Luck!
-Icer
Good Luck!
-Icer
#4
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Update:
checked all grounds and connections from ecm to crankshaft harness and there was continuity however when manipulating harness to hook it, one of the cables broke. Got a new one from a junkyard, soldered it and plugged it.
Turned the car on and P0335 was still present but “wobbly” rpms were gone.
took it for a test drive, everything was smooth, car very responsive so I was pretty happy that the culprit could be a weak connection on the cable to the harness!
…However something new that happened is that car takes like 5 secs cranking before start.
15 min later car died. Tried to start it again, and car goes now directly into limp mode with P2135.
If I clear codes with the car on, it will die which is not common either…P2135 and P0335 are not going away.
I’m starting to give up…my last resort is to take down transmission and check for bend teeth…
checked all grounds and connections from ecm to crankshaft harness and there was continuity however when manipulating harness to hook it, one of the cables broke. Got a new one from a junkyard, soldered it and plugged it.
Turned the car on and P0335 was still present but “wobbly” rpms were gone.
took it for a test drive, everything was smooth, car very responsive so I was pretty happy that the culprit could be a weak connection on the cable to the harness!
…However something new that happened is that car takes like 5 secs cranking before start.
15 min later car died. Tried to start it again, and car goes now directly into limp mode with P2135.
If I clear codes with the car on, it will die which is not common either…P2135 and P0335 are not going away.
I’m starting to give up…my last resort is to take down transmission and check for bend teeth…
#5
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Wow- So many moving parts! I'll start with the obvious first since it's I didn't see it stated-
1) What 1st changed between when the car ran well and suddenly it didn't. Or was it gradual?
2) Don't overlook the simple things at this mileage- new plugs, clean air filter, gas < 1year old, injector cleaner.
I'm starting to hear more and more stories regarding wiring in the engine bay failing. You state you've checked for continuity (and hopefully correct voltage ). It may be worth an $8 can of CRC Electronic Cleaner to spray on the connections. Gl!
1) What 1st changed between when the car ran well and suddenly it didn't. Or was it gradual?
2) Don't overlook the simple things at this mileage- new plugs, clean air filter, gas < 1year old, injector cleaner.
I'm starting to hear more and more stories regarding wiring in the engine bay failing. You state you've checked for continuity (and hopefully correct voltage ). It may be worth an $8 can of CRC Electronic Cleaner to spray on the connections. Gl!
#6
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+1 to basic maintenance to eliminate that as a potential fault.
Also, if you’re following along in the FSM, the accelerator assembly is in the diagnostic tree for both codes. Might be worth a look. Also, can you start it if you feather the accelerator while cranking? That says to me a rich startup condition and your idle air needs a relearn.
Either way, worth through the diagnostic steps in the ECM section of the FSM one at a time. Both codes are priority 1, so one likely isn’t causing the other.
Good luck.
Also, if you’re following along in the FSM, the accelerator assembly is in the diagnostic tree for both codes. Might be worth a look. Also, can you start it if you feather the accelerator while cranking? That says to me a rich startup condition and your idle air needs a relearn.
Either way, worth through the diagnostic steps in the ECM section of the FSM one at a time. Both codes are priority 1, so one likely isn’t causing the other.
Good luck.
#7
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Hello Esqueda,
Sorry to hear about your continued woes. You never mentioned where you sourced your crank sensor. Is it OEM or aftermarket? I strongly suggest replacing this with an OEM unit if you used aftermarket (same for throttle body and pedal sensor). As others have suggested, wiring faults are becoming more common as these cars age. Failures for items like injectors, coil packs, MAF, etc. are not uncommon. Probably the most common issues on higher mileage Zs tend to be crank/cam sensors causing issues. Sometimes issues with these sensors can cause confusion during the diagnosis. You may need to find a shop that understands how to interpret live data in order to get down to the root problem. There's a lot of moving variables here. You've replaced the crank sensor, throttle body, pedal sensor, and ECM/BCM (no antitheft issues?). Moving forward I would test and gather data before replacing any more parts. It's a slow grind, but at least you won't be guessing.
Good Luck!
-Icer
Sorry to hear about your continued woes. You never mentioned where you sourced your crank sensor. Is it OEM or aftermarket? I strongly suggest replacing this with an OEM unit if you used aftermarket (same for throttle body and pedal sensor). As others have suggested, wiring faults are becoming more common as these cars age. Failures for items like injectors, coil packs, MAF, etc. are not uncommon. Probably the most common issues on higher mileage Zs tend to be crank/cam sensors causing issues. Sometimes issues with these sensors can cause confusion during the diagnosis. You may need to find a shop that understands how to interpret live data in order to get down to the root problem. There's a lot of moving variables here. You've replaced the crank sensor, throttle body, pedal sensor, and ECM/BCM (no antitheft issues?). Moving forward I would test and gather data before replacing any more parts. It's a slow grind, but at least you won't be guessing.
Good Luck!
-Icer
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