Those pics show the rears were slightly overinflated. Drop down a pound and check them again. The fronts are OK, but what you really need are some stiffer swaybars. You can still use the Generals on the street, but they're badly worn for continued track use. Tires with 8/32nds of tread (or more) are usually susceptible to tread squirm under load, so that's the conundrum with running track days 4-5 times a year.

 

I'm tracking the concepts of tread squirm, understeer and tire pressure.
I get that I'm seeing the problems that come with even occasional use of street cars on track.

I'll have to checkout my sway bars and bushings.
My butt-dyno is completely off... I have more background off road where we remove sway bars.
Ridiculous body roll seems normal to me... I thought my Z felt planted, but I guess it could wallow like a pig.
Maybe I have to start researching swaybars and see if I can "waste" some more money.

 

Don't get me wrong, understeer is something that we all battle in the Z33, sometimes in slightly different forms. Learning how to modulate the brake pedal and learning to trail brake into some turns can also help manage understeer. Even after 37 years on the track, I'm constantly searching for ways to shift the weight distribution of my Z and gain just a bit more neutral handling in some corners. Compared to my friends who go to Moab, it's a different universe.

Don't get me started on adjustable shocks and swaybars- that can be very deep and expensive black hole for your ZR.

 

I love the car and its perfect for weekend drives and picking up to-go orders.
Just wanted to add some track days for fun and to keep the occasional crazy-itch off the public roads.
Didn't realize that even a few track days here and there would require so much more.
New rotors and pads - check
SS brakes lines and 5.1 fluid - check
Wider wheels - check
Tires - check, but not quite the right ones

I'm still original shocks - probably need replacing (16 yrs 112k).
No interest in coilovers... been looking at the Bilstein B6.
Now maybe even sway bars after the shocks.

I should have just commited to track wheels and tires instead of trying to have it both ways with "summer wheels and tires".
Guess I'll just finish trashing these Generals and if I want to keep doing this commit to a track set.

 

Another SCCA Track Night in America tomorrow - going to be hot 95+.
I've been debating track day insurance after watching the guy in front of me total his Dodge Viper.
I assume USAA wouldn't cover, but couldn't find it in writing.
After calling I had 2 reps tell me repeatedly that I was covered - "it's Pleasure unless it is an actual timed, competitive racing event".
I kept asking for the 86 page long policy with all the exclusions and I wanted them to email me with their name and that I was affirmatively covered.
They wouldn't do that of course and the supervisor finally sent me the exclsuions and noted

Exclusions:
We will not pay for....
Loss to "your covered auto:" or any
"non-owned auto", located inside a facility
designed for racing, for the purpose of:
(1) Racing or speed contest; or
(2) Driver skill training or driver skill

Don't trust the phone call without something in writing.

 

Sorry to say, but regular car insurance won't cover HPDEs or timed solo events. As for the premium for a specialized insurance policy for the track, get ready to pony up 20-25% of your vehicles estimated value. And want to know about another insurance fable? Some trackday drivers assume that since the "track has $1M in insurance for this event", they'll be covered. Wrong- that kind of policy only covers damage and liability if track property is damaged. Nothing in it for participants, so caveat emptor.

 

Another great day at the track with SCCA.
For the first time there was another 350Z instead of the just the usual corvette, porsche, BMW...
I stayed in the beginner group, he pretty much ruled the intermediates.

Still debating my track future since the ZR has no other option.
I've test driven/sat quite a few cars and really don't fit in much.
Seems like I need a back seat, I can't fit in a coupe roofline with a helmet - so Mustang?
Going to just stick with the ZR and see if 5x with SCCA a year is enough to scratch my track itch.

Action shot.
The C8 blew me away before the lap was over.
I could run with the C7 on the curves but let him pass so he could go ungodly fast on the straightaway.

 

Car still doing just fine.
No overheating, no brake fade, just adjusting tire pressure as it gets hot.
My driving and times seem about the same.
Getting more comfortable with the feel and when I lose traction.
Last track day for me coming up in early October.

Another action shot - and yes this guy passes me soon.

 

Had my last track day and it was a beautiful overcast and 75.
Car did just fine again so no complaints.
Parked next to the new GR Corolla... interesting car, amazingly practical for a track car, but just didn't excite me... it is a Corolla after all.
I did see some new GR 86s - really liked the look and size of those.
I will have to go check them out.
I didn't realize they were 2+2 so maybe I will fit a little better.
Think I'm going to hold off on any mods to the Z until I decide if I'm staying with it.
Was waiting for a deal on Bilstein B6's, but maybe I'll stick with what I have for a while longer.

 

Finally tackled the valve cover replacement on my VQ35HR that I put off for 11 months.
I went with the Z1 OEM kit since I figured the cost was worth it since it was not going to be something I wanted to repeat.

It wasn’t terribly technical for a YouTube trained mechanic like myself, but seriously tested my patience.
There is always one bolt that just SUCKS – for me bottom-closest to the driver.
I just kept pulling coolant hoses until I could get to it better with weird combinations of extensions.
Luckily it was a low torque bolt since I ended up using a tiny ¼” driver.

And so may damn wires in the way – particularly on passenger side.
There is very little slack in those and they all but disintegrate as you try and get clips you can’t see to move them around.
Getting covers out wasn’t too bad.
Delicately getting new covers in place without f’ing up the gasket was the challenge.
I eventually got it, but it seriously tested my patience.

Getting it all back together was a bit of a puzzle too.
I started out well labeling everything… but as I pulled more wires and hoses, I failed to label.
Luckily, I took a few before photos and videos and was able to recreate the puzzle.
Only hoses I ALMOST messed up were brake booster and PCV on the back of the plenum – had them swapped at first.

I ran it for a few minutes with no oil or coolant leaks.
No issues with throttle body idle.
I then drove slow in the neighborhood for a few minutes – checked again – no leaks.
Then put a few miles on at speed – again no leaks.

Did an oil & filter change in case something was floating around in there.
And I’m tentatively declaring this a success... we will see what I just jinxed.

 

Good stuff! Lots of updates going back to 2022! Not sure how I missed this thread before.

Helpful tip for wire harness nonsense in future. Pick up a bucket of mini-bungee cords from Walmart, use the bungees to hold the wiring or loose hoses out of the way for you, like an extra set of helping hands. Many people use large zip-ties, but bungees are faster and actually much cheaper since they can be easily relocated and re-used. I got the idea from a mechanic on YT and was like...damn, that's smart, and super simple. Been doing this ever since and it has truly made valve cover jobs a whole lot easier.

Your red ZR looks fantastic! I'm actually shocked you haven't had any overheating issues with it yet, this is a pretty common issue, VQs get hot fast. I'm assuming you're not going full "Speed Racer" on it. More a test of your skills in the car, than what the car itself can do. One day, I'll take my Z to the track, but before then, I need to skill up more. A driving skill I still lack is proper heel-toe shifting. I'm also a pretty tall guy and maybe my feet are simply too big, I don't know. I play with the technique every now and again, and it feels horribly awkward and sketchy for me.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

One of the instructors also asked me if I was having cooling issues - he said he always did with his old Z.
Luckily no overheating and I think I'm pushing it pretty hard, but that said I'm not that experienced of a driver.
The track is Dominion Raceway in Virginia - 2 miles with 2700' straightaway and 12 turns coming back.
I'm pretty much WOT-Brake-Turn the whole time except I've started backing off a bit on the straightaway to let the big boys pass.
Plus, I honestly scared myself a few times and try and keep it under 120ish now.

 

So, I was all proud of my valve cover repair this weekend and as I put the engine cover and strut brace back on I f’d up.
One of the strut brace bolts gave me problems.
So, I decided to chase/refresh the hole and being in a hurry, I totally forgot the oil.
And yes, as we all know, going at a hole unlubricated can cause big problems.
And I realized after the fact that the hole was x1.25 and I used a x1.5.
So not only did I do it wrong, I used the wrong tool.
I twisted the thread tool in the hole and then broke it as I tried to get it out.
I went through various failed extraction techniques and eventually just drilled it out.

Humorously, since I used the wrong one, I still have the correct 10x1.25.
I kept it real wet and backed it out and cleaned it multiple times, but thankfully it worked.
Otherwise, I was going to have to learn to tap a hole

 

Spent the winter sitting in potential ZR replacements for fun and further cemented that I am the wrong size.
Track focused cockpits are not made for 6’3” and 245lbs.
Especially if you want it to be street legal with regular seats… I’m not dedicated enough to pull carpet and cut/weld yet.
I confirmed I do not fit in the Toyota GR86 & Supra, Ford Mustang, Porsche Cayman, C5 or C6 Corvette and Nissan 350Z & 370z coupes.
I surprised myself by fitting in a BMW M2 with a helmet – it has an impressive 40” of headroom.
It has to be slick top, so that takes out 99.9% of the M235i and M240i variants.
I humorously learned that the M235i/M240i came stock with a power moonroof and you had to pay $1800 and special order one slick.
Canadian models were stock-slick, but finding a non-rusty unicorn isn’t likely.
Most actual M2’s are slick, they added a moonroof as an option later.
So, I at least know I have an option 2016-2018 BMW M2.

Other cars I found with about 40” of headroom were
· R53 Mini Cooper S - supposedly fun, but all sorts of reliability issues and it’s a Mini…
· Honda Civic Type R - again supposed to be great, but not sure I’m a CTR guy… I don’t have even any Anime stickers…
· Tesla Model 3 Performance – hmmm… didn’t check this one out yet… maybe some day

As I continue to drive the ZR, I can at least think about the M2 and see if the perfect deal falls in my lap one day.
But today was sunny and 72...ZR can go topless, M2 can't do that... maybe I can sell the idea of 2 fun cars to the wife...

 

SCCA Track Night schedule is posted and my local track has 5 nights again.
I'm signed up for 17 April and 23 May.
Future dates are 13 June, 18 Sep and 10 Oct - misses the hot July/Aug days this year - perfect.

My daughter just got engaged, so I suspect the money I've been saving for a different car has just disappeared.
A few more years with the ZR is not a bad thing... maybe now I need to get a suspension upgrade...

 

I've actually been considering an R53 Mini as a track build. The reliability issues with these have been addressed by the aftermarket industry. You can make a very robust/reliable car out of the R53 platform. The ones to avoid are the later variants when they switched to a turbocharger vs. the R53's supercharger. Surprisingly these little cars are pretty easy to work on for the home mechanic and parts are not that expensive. Used car market inflation made prices for R53s skyrocket a few years back, but I think they are coming down to reasonable levels again. Virtually every Mini from this vintage is going to require some work, but the R53 would be my choice if I ever pull the trigger.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Today was my first day back on the track and I made it 2 laps before getting black flagged.
The new track safety crew is now enforcing the broomstick test for convertibles.
SCCA hasn't cared if the track didn't care... VIR and Summit were always a No.
Dominion didn't care for SCCA events until today.
Oh well, can't complain too much, it is the right answer.
Just because I am willing to take the risk (which is admittedly dumb) I understand why they don't want to take it.

And to make the timing worse, I just ordered Bilstein B6's yesterday.
Planned on doing the first event with old suspension and the next one with new to feel the difference.
Guess I'm going to eat the shipping and return those, I don't really need them for weekend leisurely drives.
Now I'm back to not knowing what to do for a track itch... or really not being able to afford what to do.

Final track pick for the ZR (the C7 guy was fast as hell).

 

I would still keep and install the B6s. They are an excellent dual purpose strut/shock. I use them on my Z for street use in combination with OEM Nismo Z33 coil springs. It's just the right amount of rigidity without being uncomfortable. Good luck with the Wedding! That's something later in life I'll have to worry about (financially I mean), I have 3 daughters .
Cheers!
-Icer

 

I've only had one key and fob since I bought the car in 2021 and never felt 100% comfortable about that.
I went the DIY route and it worked out.
Ordered a Simple Key programmer from Tom's Keys online - $63.
And bought some blank Nissan transponder keys online from Keyless Remotes - $23.
And had a local locksmith cut the keys - $14.
And I already had an extra non-functioning fob - $0.

OBD programmer was pretty easy to use - just have to start with one functional key.
Now I have 3 keys and 2 fobs for $100.

 

Still searching for something that works for me since I can't pass the broomstick test.
Drove a 2005 R53 and a 2013 R56 Mini Cooper S.
I know you are supposed to like the supercharged R53 better, but I actually preferred the R56.

R53 was a little tight in the footwell, plus I didn't care for the clutch engagement... I know that can change.
Supercharger was okay, a little lag.
The sound didn't thrill me as the internet said it would.
It moved nice and cornered well, but it just didn't speak to me.




I fit better in the R56 - roomier footwell and a real nice clutch.
Turbo lag was noticeable compared to NA 350Z but the car would fly once it started going.
Drove even better than the older R53, but still just wasn't right, plus the internet has scared me on R56 maintenance.



Crossing Mini Coopers off the list even though I actually fit in the R56.