Mating 300zx yoke to 350z manual driveshaft?
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Mating 300zx yoke to 350z manual driveshaft?
Hey y’all, just wondering if anyone would have any info on whether or not it’s possible to mate the 300zx yoke to the 350z driveshaft? Bought a Vh45de with 300zx manual gearbox and if I can use the carbon fiber driveshaft then that would be the easiest route. Don’t want to buy the yoke and driveshaft until I have an idea of whether or not it’s possible as they’re hard to source and expensive where I come from.
Cheers for the help.
Cheers for the help.
#3
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MY350Z.COM
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Hey y’all, just wondering if anyone would have any info on whether or not it’s possible to mate the 300zx yoke to the 350z driveshaft? Bought a Vh45de with 300zx manual gearbox and if I can use the carbon fiber driveshaft then that would be the easiest route. Don’t want to buy the yoke and driveshaft until I have an idea of whether or not it’s possible as they’re hard to source and expensive where I come from.
Cheers for the help.
Cheers for the help.
I would be leery of customizing a 350Z driveshaft (hereinafter, "DS") by a run of the mill driveshaft shop. The carbon fiber DS is constructed using a press fit between the yoke and shaft. Very strong with it easily meeting the standard torque standard (something like 2k Nm). I would think that your average shop would suggest using adhesives, the way they were built early on. I have doubts about the safety of a DS sloppily glued together. I needn't mention the danger of dropping a driveshaft, especially at the transmission engagement point. (Pole vault Z car...) Better run a safety hoop with that. Sure, take it to a shop and ask but if they do not have experience with CF, be wary.
I would instead have a custom drive shaft fabricated from good ol' chromoly. Not that expensive to do and you'll take out a good portion of the FUD factor.
This is just uninformed, old school opinion. There may be guys/gals out there running some really trick stuff I've never heard of..
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The carbon fiber DS is constructed using a press fit between the yoke and shaft. Very strong with it easily meeting the standard torque standard (something like 2k Nm). I would think that your average shop would suggest using adhesives, the way they were built early on. I have doubts about the safety of a DS sloppily glued together. I needn't mention the danger of dropping a driveshaft, especially at the transmission engagement point. (Pole vault Z car...) Better run a safety hoop with that. Sure, take it to a shop and ask but if they do not have experience with CF, be wary
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