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Most of your questions were already answered. But I can elaborate further on the Revup VQ. You have an 06 6MT, so you got the one-off year engine that could come in a 350Z.
03-05 had the standard VQ35DE (whether it was an AT or 6MT)
05.5-06 had the Revup VQ35DE (initially introduced on the 2005 Anniversary Edition I think)
07-08 had the VQ35HR (final evolution before the 370Z came out)
What makes the Revup VQ35DE different from prior years, was the intake and exhaust variable valve timing, also the oil pump was upgraded along with some of the rotating assembly internals. These improvements allowed for the rev limit bump to 7k and some good power increases compared to the years prior. It's a sweet engine, but became notorious for oil consumption issues. Nissan had a TSB campaign out for this engine and did offer Warranty replacement long or short blocks if a Nissan Dealer determined you had excessive oil consumption.
Because of these oil consumption concerns, I strongly recommend sticking with the factory 06 Air Filter Box. You get the best filtration/protection with the OEM filters and maintenance is a snap. Aftermarket intakes (Cold Air intakes) + cone filters do give some minor power gains, but those filters require regular cleaning and re-oiling to keep larger dust particulates from entering your intake (many users don't do this crucial service). Besides, your 06 filter box was also an improved design over the previous years which included a velocity stack from the factory. If you do decide to upgrade your intake system beyond the MREV2, I think a larger throttle body and something like the Mishimoto Tube would be better choices for the long term, especially since you don't like to rev your engine beyond 5k-6k, which is where most gains from a CAI cone filter or pop-charger will really shine. Your biggest gains will come from the exhaust, MREV2, and a tune (unless you take the nuclear option & roll forced induction with either a turbo or supercharger kit!).
If you wish to focus on utility and driver comfort, then I highly recommend the RJM Performance Clutch Pedal. Especially since you mentioned the clutch engagement is at the top of the pedal travel with little room for initial bite or feel. This single mod is a must have in my book for those with 6MTs, it greatly improves the feel and control of the clutch engagement duration and initial bite....and it nets me an extra 10 SPG (Smiles Per Gallon).
Next I would get your rear differential bushings replaced. If you do decided to change up the gear ratio on the diff, that would be the time to also replace the bushings. The rear bushing is fluid filled and they all fail from age. If you have a black/brown stain trail on your rear subframe, then the bushing is blown and should be replaced. Yours may still be intact with how low the mileage is, so worth a check.
Cheers!
-Icer
My car has used 1/2 quart of oil in the last 1000 miles. That's half what my 93 928GTS used
I have driven three Boxsters over the last seven months, but just couldn't pull the trigger on any of them. I'm really drawn to these cars - almost obsessed. I've owned Porsche's in the past and I love the way they feel. The Boxster is a prime fit for me at this point in my life and I know I will have one someday. the 2013 model is the one I want, but right now prices are just too high for me.
What's keeping me from buying a cheap 986 to bomb around in? Facebook Boxster Owners Group posts versus the 350Z Owners Group posts. If you spend some time perusing both, you'll see the majority of Boxster posts are about problems with their cars, some of which are pretty serious, while the majority of 350Z posts are about upgrades to the cars and parts availability from wrecked cars.
I haven't done the larger throttle body upgrade yet myself, but I think all the different aftermarket support companies use the same Hitachi TB (Hitachi is OEM mfg. for stock 70mm TB), the main difference is the adapter plates & hardware included. They all work just fine, so it comes down to personal preference. I don't think you could go wrong with the Z1 kit, but to see all your options, you should check out other vendors (conceptzperformance.com, zspeedperformance.com, & specialtyz.com to name a few). I really like the construction quality of the CZP TB adapter plate kit. How much power does it grant? I don't know, I think the mileage will vary depending on other supporting mods. It should improve throttle response at a minimum and to maximize gains, most recommend an aftermarket intake tube + filter & a tune.
Wow, you're really pumped to get going on your Z, congrats on the RJM pedal purchase, you're going to love it once it's installed. Be forewarned, the installation process isn't fun if you plan to do it yourself. The instructions are excellent, it's just very tight working conditions. NOTE: If you wish to bleed/flush the clutch fluid or replace the master or slave cylinders, RJM recommends doing this prior to installing the new pedal.
To help keep your intake plenum and galleries clean, I suggest picking up the Mishimoto Oil Catch Can kit (OCC), a great time to install would be during the MREV work. These engines are known for excessive blow-by through the PCV system, the OCC kit will help trap the fuel and oil vapors. Whether you get one or not, I recommend replacing the PCV valve, they are plastic and don't last forever. If yours is sticking or clogged, that can be a contributing factor to oil consumption. I have the Mishimoto OCC kit on my Z and I can confirm it's working as intended.
If you're in it for the long haul and want to bullet proof your Z (preventative maintenance), then I would consider the following services....coolant flush, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid flush, and full suspension (bushings/struts/alignment) inspection. The front compression rod bushings are prone to failure, especially on lowered vehicles. I recommend replacing the coolant bleeder fitting with an upgraded aluminum unit over the OEM plastic one (Z1 sells a replacement, as do others), same goes for the radiator because of the plastic endcaps, but with how low mileage your Z is, you're probably safe to wait on both items.
In terms of exhaust options, there are more than I can list here. This topic has been beaten to death on the forums, so I suggest searching the forums and watching some videos on Youtube. Some more tame options I can think of would be the Stillen or Nismo systems. But do you research, everyone has their own tastes and this really boils down to personal preference.
Porsches are sweet. My brother had a 2014 Cayman S, what a fantastic vehicle. I only drove it a handful of times, but loved it for what it was. I still prefer a proper manual transmission though and I don't think that was even an option for the Caymans (I don't know, I'm not a Porsche expert). Unfortunately, like pretty much all German vehicles, the maintenance is expensive and although no major issues developed on the Cayman, some items did pop up. I think the engine mounts needed to be replaced and those mounts are very special and incredibly expensive (I think $1K each or something). I think in terms of longevity and reliability, you really can't go wrong with a Z car when compared to others.
Cheers!
-Icer
Last edited by icer5160; Jun 21, 2023 at 11:34 AM.
icer5160
On the larger throttle body - do you think they are taking a stock one and machining it out from 70 to 75mm? Or is it just the plates/adapters that are enlarged? I ask because I wonder if I could simply 'enlarge my own throttle body' lol. But seriously, I wonder if it's just a matter of sanding out the inside plate hole or something along those lines?
RJM was running a special so I took advantage. Changing it out is something I would have my mechanic do. Last weekend he was working on the clutch slave cylinder and bleeding it I think. Not sure what he did, but he said it made a nice improvement. It's been raining every day so I haven't had a chance to get the Z out to test it myself.
Thank you for the suggestion on the oil catch can kit, I will pick one up.
When we 'baselined' the car right after I bought it, my mechanic checked the condition of the coolant and he didn't think it needed changing. He did the brake flush, engine oil, and topped off the power steering fluid. He thought the diff fluid was fine. We'll revisit the fluids at another time - they could be 17 years old after all.
I've listened to quite a few exhausts and there are a couple I liked more than others. But what I don't know is whether or not they drone. I definitely want to change the exhaust so there is better flow to match the improvements I'm making to the input side of things. The goal is to find something that does not drone. Not really sure how to figure that out.
I called and spoke with someone in the service department at Z1 Motorsports today. The cost for the initial 'before' dyno testing (three pulls) is $180. After I've done all the bolt on work, the car will be tuned and dyno'd at the same time. The cost at the end is $400 for the license/software for UpRev reflash and another $450 for the tuning work and 'after' dyno testing.
I think I'm going to have my mechanic do the bolt-on parts to save some money. Trying to keep all this around $5K.
From the Facebook listing - "Rev9 dual exit exhaust, came off my 05 G35. Only the mid pipe and mufflers, definitely been used but no damage, $225 obo."
Rev9 was one of the exhausts that I liked the sound of on a Youtube video
Greg
Last edited by TN350ZRoadster; Jun 21, 2023 at 08:40 PM.
The 75mm TB is from a newer Maxima or other Nissan/Infiniti model, hence no tune required, just a Idle Air Relearn worst case. The mouth & throat are larger overall, you can actually fit the stock TB inside the larger one. In short, you won't be able to just machine or port it open more. However, if you wanted to be technical about it, an old hot-rod trick used to maximize flow is to trim down as much of the butterfly hinge as possible (the cylinder piece that the inlet valve plate screws to) and also add a knife edge to the the same plate. This streamlines the airflow by removing resistance and thus increase the flow rate. How much of an improvement would require a flow bench test before and after. The gains would be minimal for the amount of effort required, but still, something that could be done with basic tools at home. I've thought about attempting this myself since I have a spare OEM 70mm TB, but these electronic units can be very sensitive. This little trick is most often done with older carbureted engines. Also, the 75mm TB is a simple bolt-on solution that's been proven reliable. The reason I've held off on it is because I live in CA and I suspect this is not a C.A.R.B. legal mod, it's kind of a grey area. It's also not something that can be easily hidden, the larger TB sticks out like a sore thumb.
In terms of exhaust drone issues, most reputable catback kits don't exhibit this behavior. Drone issues typically arise after replacing the OEM cats with test pipes. Pretty much all exhaust mfgs design their systems with the factory cats in mind, but going with test pipes alters the flow and sound characteristics. I'm sure there's a few systems out there that might have drone even with the stock cats, but I haven't seen a complaint about this in ages. The most popular choices on the market today are Invidia, HKS, Agency Power, Borla, Motordyne (pricey), and Tomei. Personally, I dislike the single exit exhaust systems, they are abnoxiously loud, like Harley Davidson d-bag with baffle ripped out loud. All the Fast & Furious wannabe kids go with these where I live (gotta stop myself before I go off on a rant). I've seen some members recommend the Borla system (Either Trav, Dark or Cobra) and it's a well constructed, good sounding system, with proper gains. No drone characteristics that I've heard about either. I think if you stick with well known make, you should be fine. The Invidia system is also very nice, more aggressive sounding than the Borla, but also no drone. The Fujitsubo kit also sounds very nice and looks very clean. Here's a link that might help you.
Glad to see you have a mechanic who you can trust to help cover your bases. You will need to work closely with him during the fine tuning process of the RJM clutch pedal, but for most people just leaving it at the default RFP setting is a massive improvement. I would start there work towards the height and angle adjustments. I'm a somewhat tall guy at 6'1" and I love being able to adjust the pedal height and angle.
Cheers!
-Icer
Last edited by icer5160; Jun 21, 2023 at 08:32 PM.
That exhaust system is missing components. That's the stock Y pipe, but it's displayed backwards against the rear mufflers. The mid-pipes are completely missing from this equation. I've never heard of the manufacturer either, probably a clone or knock-off. Lastly, I think the G35s, even the coupe model, had different hanger locations, so not sure if it would bolt right up. I would pass on this one. You can find a better deal if you're looking to score a used kit.
Cheers!
-Icer
That exhaust system is missing components. That's the stock Y pipe, but it's displayed backwards against the rear mufflers. The mid-pipes are completely missing from this equation. I've never heard of the manufacturer either, probably a clone or knock-off. Lastly, I think the G35s, even the coupe model, had different hanger locations, so not sure if it would bolt right up. I would pass on this one. You can find a better deal if you're looking to score a used kit.
Cheers!
-Icer
Yeah I see that kit is only $420 new. Got excited for nothing!
Sorry, barely catching up.
Ok, so as you seem pretty serious I'll help you out with decisions, and what I truly believe is needed vs "trying to maximize everything".
I have the TB, for budget I would recommend against it as it is really hard to use with stock intake.
For intake you are set (unless you want noise) with the K&N filter and your 06 box.
The MREV2 is the most expensive part other than exhaust, but it will make the most gains.
I would NOT get the Z1 spacer, go Motordyne instead, fitment with the hood, strut bar, plenum, etc. gets finicky with their spacer and IMHO the Motordyne is better.
For exhaust the Borla, Fujitsubo and Gemini are perfect IMO, with the Borla being the most OEM for looks and sound, Fujitsubo being in the middle and the Gemini being the most different.
The pumpkin is a straight swap I believe, there should be a write up here I believe.
Holy hell, I had not realized that the MREV2 had become so expensive and hard to come by lol.
Looks like the average cost of the whole thing is about $1k now!
Tell you what, I have a MREV2 clone, with the ISO thermal spacer, coated in and out, entire manifold.
I was saving it for science, but IDK if it's worth my time and money, and I'd rather it be put to good use.
I can give you a deal on the whole thing but I would need your stock manifold in return, if you are interested PM me and we can talk details.
Late to the party, but I'll try to offer some constructive feedback...
As far as the 75mm TB, I have done this. I did it a while back before Z1 offered it and I got it from NWP Engineering. It came with a Hitachi/OEM TB and an adapter plate which installs the TB at a slight angle. Fitment was perfect and everything lined up with the included gaskets and wiring harness. Definitely an easy DIY job. As far as actual gains, I don't know specifically since I did all my "breather mods" at once and then got it dyno tuned.
With respect to intakes and exhausts, everyone has an opinion on them. My opinion is that the more air you can feed and exit your engine, the more power it will make. Sure, you will see countless debates of "true" cold air intakes versus claimed cold air intakes where the airbox/filter sits in the engine bay and there are pros and cons to both. I went with a 3.5" Admin Tuning intake. It's not the biggest out there (like the 4" LMT intake). You will need to reroute or block off the PCV line that connects to the OEM intake tube since there is no port for it. I'm running a catch can for the passenger side PCV port with an open breather and routed some tubing from the driver's side PCV port to an open breather as well. It's not strictly street legal so depending on how stringent your inspection is being, it may not pass inspection (if it's required where you live).
When it comes to exhausts, the quieter options out there are what Dark mentioned - Borla, Fujitsubo, and Invidia Gemini. I had the Invidia Gemini for a while. No drone. I retrofitted that to my G35 by using some extension pipes since the G35 is slightly longer. All the hangers line up. If you end up getting a G35 exhaust to put on your Z, you will need an exhaust shop to cut out a 6"-8" section of pipe and weld the exhaust flanges on the ends. I think Rev9 is a clone knock-off of the HKS hi-power. The HKS uses a helmholtz resonator just before the exit. The Motordyne TDX2 does this also. I currently have the Motordyne. It is pricey and likely over-hyped, but I love it. It is on the louder side of things, but once it is warm, there is hardly any drone while cruising thanks to the helmholtz resonators. However, when you get on it at WOT, it screams in the best of ways. I also installed some less-restrictive Berk high flow cats. After everything was done, I was right under 270 at the wheels. Some headers and test pipes might get me an extra 10-15, but I'm not breaking the 300 mark without heads and cams.
Some quick points... G35's have a longer wheelbase than the 350Z, so any G35 exhaust would have to be shortened to fit. The MREV2 makes gains by lowering peak torque in the rev range. HP is just a way of showing torque vs rpm. It's not actually measured, it's calculated by multiplying torque by rpm and dividing by 5252. I had an '06 Rev-Up and preferred the top end HP of my engine over the low end torque of the DE engine. If you prefer low end torque, do the MREV2. If you prefer keeping the revs up, don't spend the money. If you want a better plenum, and want to keep your top-end power, search out an old APS plenum. That's what I had. I also had the Borla because I wanted more power without that VQ35 buzz. The sound is very bass heavy without the treble. I made 281 whp with my set-up. I had just about every bolt-on (stock TB that I gasket matched and cleaned up). I was about to do cams, but sold the car. Here's what my engine bay looked like...
I watched the Youtube videos on installing a 3.7 pumpkin in my 350Z. I'm convinced this is as important to my project as the MREV2 is. I don't rev up high and I don't even take this car on the highway. The results of the 3.7 or 3.9 FD in terms of mid-band acceleration are exactly what I'm looking for. I think there might be as many SPM gains with the 3.7 FD as with all the other bolt-on mods.
What is an open differential?
Not sure LSD would be of benefit to me. How important is this for my project? Does it come standard with all 370Z diffs?
Other than the difference in the driveshaft mounting flanges, are the AT and 6MT 370Z differentials the same? So if I find a good 370Z AT diff that has the round, four-hole driveshaft mounting flange, will that work?
Greg
Last edited by TN350ZRoadster; Jun 22, 2023 at 06:10 PM.
Late to the party, but I'll try to offer some constructive feedback...
As far as the 75mm TB, I have done this. I did it a while back before Z1 offered it and I got it from NWP Engineering. It came with a Hitachi/OEM TB and an adapter plate which installs the TB at a slight angle. Fitment was perfect and everything lined up with the included gaskets and wiring harness. Definitely an easy DIY job. As far as actual gains, I don't know specifically since I did all my "breather mods" at once and then got it dyno tuned.
With respect to intakes and exhausts, everyone has an opinion on them. My opinion is that the more air you can feed and exit your engine, the more power it will make. Sure, you will see countless debates of "true" cold air intakes versus claimed cold air intakes where the airbox/filter sits in the engine bay and there are pros and cons to both. I went with a 3.5" Admin Tuning intake. It's not the biggest out there (like the 4" LMT intake). You will need to reroute or block off the PCV line that connects to the OEM intake tube since there is no port for it. I'm running a catch can for the passenger side PCV port with an open breather and routed some tubing from the driver's side PCV port to an open breather as well. It's not strictly street legal so depending on how stringent your inspection is being, it may not pass inspection (if it's required where you live).
When it comes to exhausts, the quieter options out there are what Dark mentioned - Borla, Fujitsubo, and Invidia Gemini. I had the Invidia Gemini for a while. No drone. I retrofitted that to my G35 by using some extension pipes since the G35 is slightly longer. All the hangers line up. If you end up getting a G35 exhaust to put on your Z, you will need an exhaust shop to cut out a 6"-8" section of pipe and weld the exhaust flanges on the ends. I think Rev9 is a clone knock-off of the HKS hi-power. The HKS uses a helmholtz resonator just before the exit. The Motordyne TDX2 does this also. I currently have the Motordyne. It is pricey and likely over-hyped, but I love it. It is on the louder side of things, but once it is warm, there is hardly any drone while cruising thanks to the helmholtz resonators. However, when you get on it at WOT, it screams in the best of ways. I also installed some less-restrictive Berk high flow cats. After everything was done, I was right under 270 at the wheels. Some headers and test pipes might get me an extra 10-15, but I'm not breaking the 300 mark without heads and cams.
Thanks. Nice to know your experience with the Gemini was drone-free.
