overlord tom

That is odd. Since I noticed a significant change in exhaust note from 12 miles to 200 miles. If they really broke it in at the factory for 24 hours, why did the car sound so different during that period?

SOLO-350Z

iTrader: (26)

LOL exhaust note?!!?!? OMG you can't go by that. It's like putting a Stillen exhaust on your car, after puitting a few hundred miles on it, the exhaust note changes after it breaks in more. NOT THE ENGINE.

Zpeed Freak

They run every single engine they make for 24 hours? I won't disagree because I don't know differently. It seems to me like running every engine they produce for that long is an aweful lot of time and money spent. How much gas do they use in the process? What exactly is their procedure? At least 24 hours? Does that mean some are run for 24 hours and some run longer? Since you clearly know more about this than I do... please explain more, and please don't defer to nissan (besides, nissan are the ones who say to follow a break-in, reguardless of what they do in the factory). From what I know, most manufacturers test their engines to make sure they aren't shipping a product with a very obvious defect, and the break-in periods are engine specific. One break-in procedure isn't best for every engine. I will listen to the manufacturer way before I will listen to Pat McGivern.

marhot

Well, here we go again.

A “break in” thread comes up about every 3 months on this site. The sides are drawn and the fight begins. I just love the side that takes that “breaking in” a car is some sort of “automotive myth” or it is just a bunch of “bullsh**.” I just don’t understand you guys.

Why do think YOU know more than NISSAN’s engineers? Do you think it is some sort of conspiracy or it’s a joke by NISSAN in order for us not to enjoy our cars for the first 1,200 miles? Like, the engineers are back in Japan laughing in the break room at us; “Those stupid Americans, driving slow and easy for 1,200 miles. HAHAHA! For no reason, they don’t even have to. HAHAHAA! What suckers! HAHAHA!”

I guess the recommended maintenance schedule is also a joke? Should I really change my oil every 1,000 miles or should I change it every 10,000 miles? Because since NISSAN recommends 3,750 that must be wrong.

Well, stupid me. I varied my speed to avoid long periods at constant speed, avoided quick starts & quick stops, kept it under 4K RPMS the first 1,200 miles. I change my oil every 3,750 or 3 months. I feel like such a moron.

All you anti-break in guys, go for it. Red line it every day from day one. Screw the maintenance schedule. You’d better change that oil every 1,000 miles or each month. Better yet, no need to do it that often. It’s probably really just a conspiracy between the oil cartel & Nissan; actually don’t change the oil but once a year or every 12,000 miles. No need. What do THEY know??

Those NISSAN engineers are such buffoons.

scathing

I'm from Australia, and my service manual doesn't even mention a running in period (that I could see, it was one of the first things I went looking for when I took delivery).

However, I did used to have another Nissan that told me to break it in for the first 650 miles or so, and so I followed the same procedure.

I didn't baby it too much. While I did warm it up, I revved it out to 4,000RPM or so on a regular basis, and varied the speed. I also kept it under 60mph. Occasionally I'd take it higher, especially as I was hitting the 500 mile mark, but never redlined it.

I haven't had any issues with mine either, and it took me all of a fortnight to do. What's a fortnight of driving it a little gently, and getting used to the car, before you open her up?

Maybe its OK. Maybe you can run it to redline as soon as you drive it out of the lot, and wring it out in every gear.

Of course, Nissan has a warranty which means they need to repair for free if the engine breaks something unless there's clear signs of driver abuse / modification. So they do everything they can to ensure they prolong the engine's life. Otherwise, the printing of the running in period is just a waste of paper, and their time.

I'd rather be safe than sorry with my baby. While it may be nothing, it does no harm to the engine to limit yourself to the first 2/3 of the rev range while the driveline, suspension, brakes, etc all bed themselves in properly.

Zpeed Freak

The exact opposite of what these "set them thar rings" guys claim is true. I've heard of people claiming this myth before, but I am fairly new to these forums so I apologize if this is an old topic.

Under a microscope, a new cylinder wall is rough. As you break an engine in, the roughness of the cylinder wall is worn down. How much the cylinder wall is worn depends on how hard the engine is broke in(the hardness of the materials used also affects this process). Breaking the engine in according to the manufacturers specs is what ensures that the wear is kept to a proper level, and a snug fit between the wall and the ring is maintained. The limited wear on the wall also allows the wall to retain oil, but not too much. A too hard & fast break-in ensures that the extra pressure, heat and friction will cause a much smoother cylinder wall(known as glazing), which will reduce the walls ability to hold and retain oil, and will also increase blow-by. The reality of this issue is exactly the opposite of what is stated by the above misinformationists. To the poster: A hard break in will cause higher oil consumption, lower performance, and shorter longevity. I will happily defer you nay-sayers to nissan.

Not to mention, in a piston engine there are many moving parts. The rest of the internals also need to become fully acquainted with each other before it's ***** to the wall.

NOT TO MENTION, the rest of the car needs to become accustomed to itself (not you, the know-it-all driver).

NOT TO MENTION, if there is a serious defect with your car, you don't want to be screaming down a public road when you have a catastrophic failure. If something is seriously wrong with your car, you will generally know before the break-in is over.

Yes, most people who break their cars in hard may never notice anything. Some people will also trade 100k miles for a half second in the quarter mile. To each his own.

Nissan would not waste their time lying to us on such an issue. They are telling the truth for a very good reason. They want their engines to remain efficient and last 200,000 miles like they were designed to do.

Cheever

Hey guys, one of my friend's dad is a NISSAN Quality Engineer. While at a party last month, I asked him what he thought of the break-in procedure for Nissan.

Now I didn't catch all of the conversation, but here's what I remember:

1. Break-in procedure for a modern day engine is NOT 1200 miles.
He almost started laughing when I told him that was what the manual says.

2. You do want to allow the piston rings to seal. So, do take it easy for a little while. I asked him how many miles does that take... He told me certainly not 1200 miles.

3. I don't recall him mentioning that they run every engine for 24 hrs. If you think about it, that would be really expensive. He did mention that they do pull a engine off the line and "hot" test it occasionally.

4. He also told me that cars, in general, used to have a special "break in" oil, which is not used today.

Anyhow this guy has been an engineer for 30 years ( I believe 20 of those years with Nissan) and he knows a ton about Nissans.

Cheever

PhoenixINX

Wow... you guys are clueless.

No need to reply to this thread. You baby your motor, and I'll break in mine...

Then I'll remind you I dyno'd higher than any other track model I've bumped into.

... 1000 miles break-in, drive it NORMALLY... every 100 miles, take it to redline. Simple enough.

yobri

iTrader: (2)

Interesting read there... thanks for the info

Your friend's dad lives in Japan?

admorris

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Take a read...very sound logic and I've used this method on all of my sportbikes with success...i.e. 0 oil burn and high horsepower dyno runs.

Zpeed Freak

admorris, did you care to notice the big red letters at the top of that page saying "THIS IS VERY CONTROVERSIAL".

Did you also happen to notice my post about listening to the engineers before you listen to Pat McGivern, aka motoman, aka the guy on that link you just posted?!?!

Zpeed Freak

A motorcycle engine is far from a car engine, and what may be good for a little engine for a season of motocross... is leaps and bounds what is best for a 200,000 mile performance car engine.

Wow... you guys are clueless.

Wait a second. I'm clueless because you couldn't answer the questions I asked in response to YOUR post? Or was it too obvious that you wouldn't know the answers?

No need to reply to this thread. You baby your motor, and I'll break in mine...

But you felt the need to reply anyway....

Then I'll remind you I dyno'd higher than any other track model I've bumped into.

If you believe your DYNO means anything whatsoever.... maybe it is best that you don't respond. Try harder this time.

admorris

Actually, it's not a 'little' motorcross engine that I race on the weekend. It's a sportbike engine that makes over 160 rwhp (weighs in at 433 pds. fully fueled if you're interested) that is frequently at redline and is used on the street daily. Over 23,000 miles without losing an ounce of oil between changes. You do it your way, I'll do what has been proven to work for me. And I did read where it says it's controversial....can't miss it. It's controversial b/c there are many people out there who believe what you believe and don't bother to question. It's all good. I like horsepower and durability, and with my method of breaking in, that's what I get. To all a good night!

ZLover4Life

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

break-in varies with how you want your car to perform. If you want a long lasting, comfortable 350Z, break it in easy. If you want the most power, break it in hard.

I'm not going to add anything else, just posting that, take it however you want =D

SOLO-350Z

iTrader: (26)

Don't ASSUME. It will last just as long if you break it in harder. It's how you take care of it OVER TIME that will tell.

Zpeed Freak

That link of motoman is full of misinformation and garbage. I mentioned motoman originally on this thread with hopes that nobody would bother posting that garbage here, but two of you fools did it anyway. Intelligence on internet forums prevails yet again!

marhot

Exactly.

Some clown has a website and people accept it as the gospel. Actually it’s pretty simple; who would you TRUST, Nissan’s engineers or some clown on the internet??

Obviously, it's a tough decision for some people.

wick3d350Z

drive your car backwards for 5 miles...then your set j\k

admorris

Hey dipshit...did you bother reading my last thread? This ******** method that you refer to has worked quite well on my machine that makes 2/3 the rwhp of our cars and weighs in at 1/8th the weight. Actually it has worked on all three of my bikes (over 30K miles on the other two) as well as my current Z and past sportscar. That's all the proof I need.

enjoy your car.

admorris

My two brothers are both aircraft mechanics and sent this little bit of info. for you doubters to digest. Oh yea, it is quoted from Lycoming's website (aircraft engine maker for you hillbillies). The same info. applies to automobile engines. Keep breaking them in soft...this is enough information for me.

A new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine should receive the same start, warm-up, and preflight checks as any other engine. There are some aircraft owners and pilots who would prefer to use low power settings for cruise during the break-in period. This is not recommended. A good break-in requires that the piston rings expand sufficiently to seat with the cylinder walls during the engine break-in period. This seating of the ring with the cylinder wall will only occur when pressures inside the cylinder are great enough to cause expansion of the piston rings. Pressures in the cylinder only become great enough for a good break-in when power settings above 65% are used.

Full power for takeoff and climb during the break-in period is not harmful; it is beneficial, although engine temperatures should be monitored closely to insure that overheating does not occur. Cruise power settings above 65%, and preferably in the 70% to 75% of rated power range should be used to achieve a good engine break-in.

It should be remembered that if the new or rebuilt engine is normally aspirated (nonturbocharged), it will be necessary to cruise at the lower altitudes to obtain the required cruise power levels. Density altitudes in excess of 8000 feet (5000 feet is recommended) will not allow the engine to develop sufficient cruise power for a good break-in.

For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.