MannishBoy

iTrader: (1)

Superchargers with coolers are just that much better, though Not required, but cool air = more density = good. I suppose, though, without changing the compression on the engine, with the limited boost you'd be able to run with the supercharger, intercooling might not be worth the added cost.

Also, is he talking about a roots type blower, or a centrifugal blower? I'm assuming centrifugal, due to mounting and modification simplicity reasons.

Mikey Likes It

My guess with the resistor and the screw, he might mean a variable resistor. They usually have a 'screw' in the top of them to vary the amount of resistance. This seems viable if you need to vary the voltage, fooling the ECU into thinking it's correct.

Mike

MannishBoy

iTrader: (1)

Another thing, ask if he knows what the differences in the engines between the Z and the G35C are. I suspect they either detuned the G35C slightly for marketing reasons, quoted a lower number for marketing reasons with really no significant differences (ala F bodies), or it is intake and exhaust restrictions due to body design or the desire to make the G35C more luxury oriented (read quiter). Also, are the mods going to be similar across the brands? I think Infiniti's coming performance group is going to be called R-Type or similiar.

typeR

wow its sounds like you hit the jack pot..his comments on the ecu trickery sound fimiliar my engine maker is an engineer fromerly with john brown racing castrol syntic civic 9.003 1/4 mile all engine...anyway he has a part for my cl-S that is supposed to be being released that's good for 20hp 10lbft and is electrical simple plug and play and has been testing it so as not to get check engine light....150$ approx. I.d say you new Z's will be in the low 13's in no time...good luck



oh and BTW why not record that guys convo just for purpouses of transcribing some of what he says to text...

jelledge

Abyss,
Can you ask what the best way to launch the Z from start through 1/4 mile is. i.e. what rpm to dump the clutch from start and any other tricks and techniques Nissan might have come up with. They undoubtedly spent a lot of time racing these cars around.


Also be interested in what tire pressures they thought of for track racing and other track racing driving techniques for these cars.

Thanks

sage

I think if ever there was a time to pour it on, this was it.

Thank you!!

frayed

Quite a bit of what your engineer friend stated synchs up with my experience with attempting modification to other, new cars running OBD II+ engine management systems, that come n/a from the factory and are pretty tweaked.

My approach to tweaking a car is to make it more capable on the track without unduly compromising durability and, to a certain extent, drivability. As such, my modifications generally revolve around well engineered bolt ons for the motor, suspension, tire/wheels, brakes, safety gear.

Owning and tracking an E36 M3, I'm over here b/c I'm intrigued by the chassis, suspension sophistication, balance, and base powerplant in the Z. What makes the powerplant interesting is not on just its specs, but that fact that it is now ubiquitous in the Nissan line. That means only one thing: there will be awesome aftermarket support. With weight removal, better dampers/springs, sticky tires, better alignment and whatever else is necessary to dial out that nasty factory understeer, I think it could be a great track car, or combo track/street car. But that remains to be seen.

That said, I'd vote 'no way' to forced induction on your cars, given the fact they were not originally designed to see positive pressure (relative to ambient), and durability will take a big hit. I've seen the best aftermarket kits on M3's bring driver's to their knees on the track, in pain from all the hassle these systems bring. I could go into all the issues here, but I'll spare you. . .

Here's what I would do. . . get good rubber on your cars. Your OE rubber sucks. Hit the track; sign up for your first DE if you've never done one. For those of you in Cali, speak with Ground Control about building a quality, double or triple adjustable suspension setup, and critique every bushing in the suspension setup using linear rate springs.

I'm very eager to see what the Z can do with some well engineered track oriented parts in a venue that is a whole lot more fun and engaging than a 1/4 run or a stoplight drag.

End rant. Just thought I'd share an outsider's perspective on 'modding' your Z car.

Jeff

jelledge

Thanks for the input from the BMW side. I agree 100% with everything you said.
1. Learn how to drive.
2. Get the suspension setup to handle track conditions
3. Get good tires

Let her rip....

Turbos and superchargers are great but expensive and serious hit to reliability overall unless done very very well.

I am sure the Nissan engine could take the pressure from the supercharger or turbo but keeping the system running perfectly so as not to blow up the motor requires seriously good computer system from aftermarket sources and high quality fuel control.

You could probably add another 50-75 hp to these engines pretty easy, but unless the car AND driver know how to run fast at the track it won't matter.

barnicleboy

Your the man, thanks for sharing the info with us!!

Apexi350z

iTrader: (3)

If I can add a chip like the cl-s, that gives me 20hp gain, I'll be happy. Especially for $150!!

Sounds like Stillen or Jim Wolf needs to work on a mod for air/fuel/timing map for aggresive driving

Boomer

If the Z is detuned from 320 to 287hp, ask him when and how can we recover the lost hp. 320 would be plenty for me if it dosen't damage the engine. I don't want to add a supercharger or turbo, NA all the way. Also, how much would he estimate the NA and FI mods would coost, ballpark, I doubt he would know exactly, but you could try.

Thanks, Boomer

Michael-Dallas

My questions:

1- how much power can the bottom end hold reliably?
2- are the internals forged?
3- is the block open deck?
4- is the block girdled?
5- how do you advance ignition timing? stock spec is 15 degrees +/- 5 degrees

Michael.

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

Based on this info, what I've seen for other cars, and what has been in other posts from Fairlady Z in Japan, etc about current mods underway in Japan....it appears that the best prospect for power increases while staying NA will be a complete package from a reputable manufacturer.

In other words, it looks achieving 320hp is possible, but everything would have to be balanced and tuned as a whole package...ECU, exhaust, headers, intake all designed to work together.

Abyss, Maybe you could ask your source if NISMO will release a whole package that will be designed to work together to hit a desired power level, or if they will be just releasing individual pieces (I'm talking NA, not forced induction).

I guess it will be possible to piece together a full setup from various aftermarket providers, but it would necessitate a bit of tuning to get the parts to provide the max gains in unison....ECU's won't take into account different setups unless they are adjusted to do so...and barring a setup that is adjustable via laptop, and an experienced tuner, it doesn't seem likely. Therefore it seems evident to me that if a whole package designed to work together was released, the producer would make an absolute killing.

Also, maybe you could see if he could give some sort of ballpark cost for something like this if it were to happen. I would assume something in the $2500 range wouldn't surprise me.

Some other questions regarding the power potential of the car. I'm curious what kind of power levels the stock engine internals and transmission were designed to handle. Is this car made to hold a power upgrade from the factory (sounds like it might be if they were planning for a more powerful product cycle)? If so, just how overbuilt is it? You could reference the Supra TT, which was basically designed as a 500hp engine, than detuned waaaay down. Obviously the Z isn't that overbuilt...but I'd like to know what kind of power the thing could consistently produce and still maintain reliability.

Thanks for the great info Abyss...keep up the good work!

WashUJon

Thanks a lot, Abyss. You've turned a pretty crummy situation into something very positive for everyone here.

Can you find out what kind of power gains a SC would be looking at? I'd love to opt for a blower over turbos. I owned a turbo car and it was a bit of a pain in the ***. A blower would be much more reliable and easier to care for. I'd also like to know, and this was mentioned before, if the SC is a roots-type or centrifugal.

Thanks again and best of luck with the fixes again!

I'm so glad to hear that they're taking care of you.

-Jon

EnthuZ

iTrader: (2)

Just one question......are the connecting rod caps "cracked" or machined? He will know what I mean.

Thanks for all the info

silvrz5

AB, you might ask him if racing the f-bodies and c5 vettes had somthing to do with your tranny touble???? just kidding!

Like i posted before and got slammed by vqracer, i said a new ecu would help with the hp gains, and i was told that only forced induction engines gain from new chips!!!!!

Nice info......so did nissan get you a loaner car or are you out a car till you get your tranny fixed???? And also are you the same person that was told by the nissan dealer they were flying reps out to look at your car and they never showed and it was all just bull ****? Then you car had like 110 miles more on it than when you left it there? If so did you relay this on to this new contact?

My only question to him would be on the g35c regarding hp compared to the 350z? i heard that they are the same engines and that Infiniti just lowered the hp on paper to make the 350z the more sporty car.

good luck with getting yours fixed and im sorry that you have to be the ginney pig. Hope you get a quick fix soon.

sands

iTrader: (3)

I would be interested in this information also.

Moodie

iTrader: (3)

Can you ask if Nismo will have a performance chip/program that will bring the Z back to it's optimal performance without voiding warranty?

jcochran

I've read in magazine articles (Road and Track...if memory serves) that the crank and rods in the block are forged components. However, nothing was said of the pistons. I'm also wondering what the tranny, clutch, and rear-end can take without dying.

If you compare the Porsche 993 aftermarket supercharger systems, you can extrapolate some rudimentary information. Do note that high CRs make big boost impossible without octane boosters. Worse, you run the high probability of breaking something in the block under high CR + mid-high boost conditions (holed pistons, snapped rods, blown gaskets, etc...).

I posted earlier (in the mod folder) that the 993 can handle ~6 lbs of non-aftercooled boost from a supercharger on 91 pump gas for a crank HP measure of ~360hp. This is with a stock CR of 11.3:1. A 3.2 M Roadster with the 240hp (S52?) motor runs a CR of 10.5:1. With ~10 lbs of aftercooled supercharger boost, it sees ~396 hp (with matching exhaust and intake upgrades). Since a 3.5 L Z runs 10.3:1, I think 10lbs of properly set up boost w/aftercooling and matched intake/exhaust upgrades could see 400 crank hp.

If Nismo/3rd party aftermarket supercharging becomes available, make my SC a Lysolm twin-screw. (expensive, but worth every penny)

James

Flyingscot

Why not direct Nissan to the "Nismo Parts" poll I started months ago? The supercharger option is slightly ahead of the turbo but more Hits could do wonders

I still think the information we all posted against the thread is still looking fairly accurate so this could be a good place to start.