Sub/Amp Installation in a Roadster
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sub/Amp Installation in a Roadster
Ok, I have spent countless hours looking over the numorous posts on this subject, but I have a few remaining questions that I would really appreciate some help with. I am used to installing amps/subs in trucks and SUVs, and the cramped space of the roadster is driving me nuts in my installation efforts.
At the current time, all I have done is install a ton of Dynamat Extreme and Dynaliner in the stock sub area compartment. I am now trying to figure out a way to mount the amp in the glove box, run the wires for the amp, mount the sub to the stock bracket, and then somehow snake the speaker wire from the amp to the sub.
(1) Has anyone installed the Pioneer 254f Free air sub? If so, how does it sound, and do you have any recommendations on how to mount the sub to the stock sub bracket? Problems that I see are that the hole is too big and some sort of seal needs to be installed to fill the gap. Also, the sub does not see to lie on the bracket completely flush.
(2) Given the fact that the plastic housing around the roll bars is so delicate and may require breaking to disassemble the rear plastic panels behind the drivers seat, I am not willing to take the chance of screwing up the roll bar plastic. Given that, can I remove the lower plastic panels behind the drivers seat, or is removing the subwoofer panel my only option for access for installation of the sub and amp? My problem is that I have no idea how/where to run the power wire from the glove box to the battery or how to run the speaker wires from the glove box area to the subwoofer without disassembling the rear plastic panels.
(3) For those of you that have installed amps in the glove-box area and installed an amp in the stock sub location, how did you run the speaker wire from the glove box to the subwoofer. Remember, I dont think that I can remove any of the plastic panels. Is there a way to snake the speaker wire from the sub compartment to the glove box area?
(4) Any other helpful tips would be appreciated. I know, I know, a Basslink or enclosure would have sounded better. I just do not want to screw up the roll bar housing or seal off that whole compartment with fiberglass, so I really consider this my only option. Besides, I have bought all the crap already, so there is no turning back.
Please dont move this thread to Audio since its Roadster specific.
At the current time, all I have done is install a ton of Dynamat Extreme and Dynaliner in the stock sub area compartment. I am now trying to figure out a way to mount the amp in the glove box, run the wires for the amp, mount the sub to the stock bracket, and then somehow snake the speaker wire from the amp to the sub.
(1) Has anyone installed the Pioneer 254f Free air sub? If so, how does it sound, and do you have any recommendations on how to mount the sub to the stock sub bracket? Problems that I see are that the hole is too big and some sort of seal needs to be installed to fill the gap. Also, the sub does not see to lie on the bracket completely flush.
(2) Given the fact that the plastic housing around the roll bars is so delicate and may require breaking to disassemble the rear plastic panels behind the drivers seat, I am not willing to take the chance of screwing up the roll bar plastic. Given that, can I remove the lower plastic panels behind the drivers seat, or is removing the subwoofer panel my only option for access for installation of the sub and amp? My problem is that I have no idea how/where to run the power wire from the glove box to the battery or how to run the speaker wires from the glove box area to the subwoofer without disassembling the rear plastic panels.
(3) For those of you that have installed amps in the glove-box area and installed an amp in the stock sub location, how did you run the speaker wire from the glove box to the subwoofer. Remember, I dont think that I can remove any of the plastic panels. Is there a way to snake the speaker wire from the sub compartment to the glove box area?
(4) Any other helpful tips would be appreciated. I know, I know, a Basslink or enclosure would have sounded better. I just do not want to screw up the roll bar housing or seal off that whole compartment with fiberglass, so I really consider this my only option. Besides, I have bought all the crap already, so there is no turning back.
Please dont move this thread to Audio since its Roadster specific.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: florida
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my amp is installed behing my sub in the stock sub location it worked out well as for the sub i use a DLS free air sub 10" and it fit perfectly and sits flush. the amp i have is a huge 5 channel.
i have a 05 ss roadster.
if u have more questions email me drummer793@aol.com
i have a 05 ss roadster.
if u have more questions email me drummer793@aol.com
#4
Veteran
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Naples, Florida
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I have my brains behind the drivers seat and had to run some wires to the glove box for some other devices. There are a few holes that go between the 2 places. You can get a close hanger in there and fish the first wire through. After the first one is through you should be able to get the rest through easily. On the glovebox side you can either take out the whole glove box or just take out the plastic tray on the bottom under the carpet piece. There is some room to work with down there too if you need some space. If you have any questions just IM me on AIM. I'm just about always logged on...I just set away messages so I'll be able to get back to you if I'm not there.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I appreciate the help on running the speaker wire.
As for the power and remote turn on wires, any help on how I can run those without taking apart the whole rear plastic paneling?
Can I remove JUST the glove box plastic without taking apart the other plastic?
Thanks in advance.
As for the power and remote turn on wires, any help on how I can run those without taking apart the whole rear plastic paneling?
Can I remove JUST the glove box plastic without taking apart the other plastic?
Thanks in advance.
#6
Veteran
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Naples, Florida
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The botttom portions of the plastic can be taken off without removing the roll hoops. When I had some stuff being done however the shop removed the front 1/2 of the roll hoops just because. Not really sure why on that one...maybe it comes off with the top piece. You can however remove just the bottom piece (which is basically just trim around the sub. and glove compartment and a few inches above the 2. The piece on top of that which contains the small compartments however, I have no idea how to remove them. I hear that if not done correctly the plastic could become damaged from stress when re-installed creating the white plastic strech marks in certain areas.
The power wire can easily be run from the battery, through the firewall on the passenger side (if you find a grommet great, if not drill a small hole about the same dia. as your wire), under the carpet(I assume you know how to remove the kick panels and door sill plastic parts), and up into the compartment.
If you drill a hole make sure to get some nail polish or paint of some sort to cover any bare metal you created. This prevents rusting if any water happens to drip down the firewall in the engine bay.
The power wire can easily be run from the battery, through the firewall on the passenger side (if you find a grommet great, if not drill a small hole about the same dia. as your wire), under the carpet(I assume you know how to remove the kick panels and door sill plastic parts), and up into the compartment.
If you drill a hole make sure to get some nail polish or paint of some sort to cover any bare metal you created. This prevents rusting if any water happens to drip down the firewall in the engine bay.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: black "partial" leather chair
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is a grommet directly behing the battery box along the fire wall, from ther you run your amp leads behind the right kick panel and beneath the passenger door sill there are psuedo conduits that make it easier. I fit my amp underneath the tray in the glove box with no problems. I have had most of my car apart at one time or another but I dont think you need to take off the roll bar hoops to acess the area behind the seat. Where are you in Texas btw?
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I really appreciate everyone's help - two last questions.
(1) Where is an easy ground for an amp in the glove box?
(2) Assuming I have the lower rear plastic removed, is there an easy way to tap into the rear speaker wires back there for my line-level converter or am I going to have to pull the whole head unit?
Also - does anyone know the color/striping on the rear speaker wires + and -?
(1) Where is an easy ground for an amp in the glove box?
(2) Assuming I have the lower rear plastic removed, is there an easy way to tap into the rear speaker wires back there for my line-level converter or am I going to have to pull the whole head unit?
Also - does anyone know the color/striping on the rear speaker wires + and -?
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: In g-d's country....
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dude - i did the killer install. I suspended the amps BEHIND the glove box. One on each side! No part of them touches any surface to trap heat. And they are SOLID! No rattles, nothing but power, baby. I did it with standard L brackets from Home Depot. Two largeones, two small ones. then i dynomatted the **** out of them, and carpeted over that. Just to add more fun, i cut a small hole over each amp in that little storage space between the rear shock tower and the driver compartment. I used computer power supply fans. One blows in, one blows out. Never need them, except on a long trip....but PERFECT cooling - amps are fine in that little area with the fans there. It looks clean and trick!
I also removed my stupid factory NAV cd-rom drive from the tower behind driver. I moved it too, behind the glove box area....on top of the drive shaft hump.
Ya know what i need? I need someone to sell me that little compartmentcalled the mailslot compartment(with the pushbutton door). I have nothing there right now. I cant find one anywhere. I'll pay 60.00 for one....;..
anyone, anyone?!?!
"all in all, a perfect install"!
I also removed my stupid factory NAV cd-rom drive from the tower behind driver. I moved it too, behind the glove box area....on top of the drive shaft hump.
Ya know what i need? I need someone to sell me that little compartmentcalled the mailslot compartment(with the pushbutton door). I have nothing there right now. I cant find one anywhere. I'll pay 60.00 for one....;..
anyone, anyone?!?!
"all in all, a perfect install"!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Extreme Dimensions
Southern California
0
09-24-2015 03:35 PM