Originally Posted by patrickoneal

That was my thread. If I did it over again, I'd try to find something a little better than cardboard to protect the top. I didn't slip, but I doubt it would offer much protection. The hardest part is punching the rivet nubs through after drilling the head off. I could have used a larger bit and drilled it out rivets completely, but I was concerned about enlarging the hole and the new rivets not holding. Definitely put down a towel to catch all the aluminum shavings, I made quite a mess.

I see you mentioned using some elastic material sourced from a craft store. I think this would be difficult to attach with rivets. The latest OEM straps are double thick, and I think they're tripled up and sewn at the ends where the rivet holes are. If you have a sewing machine and some leather punches, you could probably duplicate the design, but for the price of the OEM strap kit, I think it's the better way to go.

I've got some extra new OEM straps, I can measure the rivets, hole spacing, length, and document the folding and stitching if you like.

Originally Posted by red roadster

Just found the tread on using the two sided tape. Last post date 12-4-12, not sure if the paste below will work.
Tread title " Replace Elastic Bands (no drilling)


https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...-drilling.html

Originally Posted by Cavallino

Can you be more specific on pushing the 2nd bow into position???? I am having a similar problem as the car in the video posted by the OP. However, it is winter and very cold where I am in New York, and I know you're technically not supposed to open/close the top in cold weather, but I just bought the car and wanted to make sure it worked. I did lube some of the moving parts up, and it went down fine, but now it is stopping just before going in, like the car in the video.