Yet another over heating 350z
Alright first post here we go!!! (2005 convertible 6spd brembos navigation)
i live in south fl and im on my 4th z car...difference is the first three were a 300zx so im not really familiar with the z33 chassis...
Ive changed thermostat (boil tested just in case)
Ive gotten new fan motors (both fans are kicking on when they need to)
Im using 5w-20 motor oil i believe
And 50/50 coolant
Ive bled the system on incline plus jacks lifting the front using my reservoir and a bleeder just tode it to the hood hanging high and kept it filled with water.
My bleeder screw no longer exist lets just say that haha
I believe my water pump could be at fault because my coolent never flows in the radiator just keeps rising and boiling over...like theres no flow into the motor....before i start this water pumo swap out i just want to make sure this is the issue...no noise from fins or leaks or smoke...so i doubt it but its all i got left to diagnose for a heating issue...lmk what you think thanks
Ps vg30dett all the way
**** was way less complicated
Oh and the car i believe is going into limp mode...when i floor it she wont move...i have to press on the gas verrrrrryyyyy lightly so acceleration is straight garbage Right now i get a code for p0011 and p0012 even after i changed those. 2 vvct sensor's code came back.... Not really to worried about it yet im sure this limp mode caused by over heating is my only issue...just wanted to let you guys know
i live in south fl and im on my 4th z car...difference is the first three were a 300zx so im not really familiar with the z33 chassis...
Ive changed thermostat (boil tested just in case)
Ive gotten new fan motors (both fans are kicking on when they need to)
Im using 5w-20 motor oil i believe
And 50/50 coolant
Ive bled the system on incline plus jacks lifting the front using my reservoir and a bleeder just tode it to the hood hanging high and kept it filled with water.
My bleeder screw no longer exist lets just say that haha
I believe my water pump could be at fault because my coolent never flows in the radiator just keeps rising and boiling over...like theres no flow into the motor....before i start this water pumo swap out i just want to make sure this is the issue...no noise from fins or leaks or smoke...so i doubt it but its all i got left to diagnose for a heating issue...lmk what you think thanks
Ps vg30dett all the way
**** was way less complicated
Oh and the car i believe is going into limp mode...when i floor it she wont move...i have to press on the gas verrrrrryyyyy lightly so acceleration is straight garbage Right now i get a code for p0011 and p0012 even after i changed those. 2 vvct sensor's code came back.... Not really to worried about it yet im sure this limp mode caused by over heating is my only issue...just wanted to let you guys know
Last edited by Mixboychriz33; Mar 4, 2020 at 10:58 AM.
Welcome to the forums! Here it goes...
[QUOTE=Mixboychriz33;11015826]my bleeder screw no longer exist lets just say that haha[/QUOTE]
I would highly suggest resolving this issue. It is called a bleeder screw for a reason (tone can be misinterpreted outside of face to face, but dont take that as a-holeish). If you plan to keep this car for a while and anticipate performing additional mods to it that require opening the cooling system (i.e. larger radiator) then you will want to get this:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...i461c3pc9vc4o1
Install is extremely easy. Cut the hoses and pull the old one out, push this one into the hoses and clamp it down. You now have a bleeder valve that could survive our next Cat5 hurricane.
This bleeder valve plays a big part in getting a proper bleed. Ask me how I know lol
Two different statements here. Does it flow into the motor? Or does it not flow into the radiator. It would need to enter the radiator first before it enters the motor. If it is entering the radiator then your top radiator hose would be warm to the touch. If that hose is cold then yes, you're most likely looking at the water pump. If the top hose is warm and the bottom radiator hose is cold then you are looking at two possibilities, a bad thermostat (not likely if it passed the boil test and install was done correctly), or a blocked radiator.
[QUOTE=Mixboychriz33;11015826]my bleeder screw no longer exist lets just say that haha[/QUOTE]
I would highly suggest resolving this issue. It is called a bleeder screw for a reason (tone can be misinterpreted outside of face to face, but dont take that as a-holeish). If you plan to keep this car for a while and anticipate performing additional mods to it that require opening the cooling system (i.e. larger radiator) then you will want to get this:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...i461c3pc9vc4o1
Install is extremely easy. Cut the hoses and pull the old one out, push this one into the hoses and clamp it down. You now have a bleeder valve that could survive our next Cat5 hurricane.
This bleeder valve plays a big part in getting a proper bleed. Ask me how I know lol
Two different statements here. Does it flow into the motor? Or does it not flow into the radiator. It would need to enter the radiator first before it enters the motor. If it is entering the radiator then your top radiator hose would be warm to the touch. If that hose is cold then yes, you're most likely looking at the water pump. If the top hose is warm and the bottom radiator hose is cold then you are looking at two possibilities, a bad thermostat (not likely if it passed the boil test and install was done correctly), or a blocked radiator.
Last edited by 813_350Z; Mar 4, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
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