Hey everyone just wanted to say hi and post a pic of my Z i recently picked up. This is my second z I purchased in the last 3 years ago. First one 2005 GC in yellow. Kept it for 6 months then sold. Now I bought this 06 GC. 2 owner car. Only bad part it has 186000 miles on it. 1st owner put 16000 miles a year on it then for the last 5 years it was seldom driven. 1-2000 a year. That being said engine is bone dry underneath and still pulls really well since it has not been beaten on. It's older and I dont want to go crazy sticking too much money into it as I'm on a budget since kids aren't cheap. So a few questions I have are:

-Shocks are shot- any good replacement options for street use, its going to be a weekend cruise and fun into work car.
-Top was replaced 5 years ago but it is showing signs of wear and stitching. Any good resources in the Dallas area?
-Any part replacement, mods that are really worth doing without breaking the bank.
I'm just looking to restore this car and get as much life out of it as i can.

 

Maybe some eBay shocks or coilovers, and a nice detail? I also don't like those wheels. Don't bother with performance mods that VQ is pretty much maxed from the factory.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/363018517165...Bk9SR76_-vDvYA

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/351686696251...Bk9SR76_-vDvYA

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/403768373747...Bk9SR6CWgPHvYA

 

Shocks (if you're staying OEM ride height): Bilstein B6

Top: Robbins Haartz Stayfast cloth

With a Z with that kind of mileage, I would focus on maintenance items first prior to performance modifications - fluids, brakes, etc.

 

Weight reduction.
Send me those front brakes/rotors/brackets and lines and I'll send you the non-brembo versions.

But seriously. Kinetix v+ plenum imo is the best mod for the buck, that and test pipes.

Struts just get oem replacement on rockauto.

 

Please don't test pipes. Makes the car sound obnoxious. Put silencers in if you do.

 

I'm running test pipes on a stock exhaust. Can't even notice any change in sound
I've also run test pipes on an injen exhaust and it sounded great with zero rasp.
What experience do you have with test pipes?

 

Are test pipes and straight pipes the same?

 

Hard disagree with both of these.

If you need new shocks/dampers the bilsteins are a really good recommendation. Coilovers are going to be 1500$+ before you get to a coilover that has as good of a damper as the bilsteins.

The kinetix v+ is prone to cracking and is only beneficial with boost. The NA way to get a bump is a larger intake that pulls from infront of the radiator with a large velocity cone, high flow cats, a larger bore exhaust (the Z1 single is a good option), an intake plenum spacer, and a tune.

More importantly would be to change all the fluids (coolant, brake, trans, diff, PS, oil, clutch) and then do all of the suspension and rear subframe bushings.

 

No, straight pipe would have no cats, resonator or muffler.
When you take the resonator out that's when you start getting rasp

 

This. ^^

Baseline the car first. As mentioned, fluids, shocks and other wear items replaced. Get it in a stable condition first. Drive it for a few months (at least) THEN determine what else you'd like to improve to meet YOUR needs.

Honestly, a large percentage of Z owners jump in headfirst and only then realize that things like non-stock air boxes (cone filters and the like), exhaust systems, etc. don't make a lot of difference on the street. Suspension, IMO, gives the greatest improvement in overall feel. And, you don't need to invest in coilovers and the like if you aren't tracking. Even a good set of OE replacement shocks will make a BIG difference on a car with that many miles (but the Bilsteins are a definite upgrade!). Factory shocks *might* last 50-70k before they give up the ghost.

 

Thanks for all the information especially for the last responses about maintenance. I think thats where I need to focus first. Probably just use KYB shocks, maybe splurged for the bilsteins. Its more of a weekend tool around town vehicle and a few times into work.

Now I just took it into discount tire to balance tires and 10 miles later I have the VDC off and SLIP lights on. The BRAKE light will intermittently come on and off as well.

 

Did they rotate them also? If so, that's your issue since I'm assuming that you have the original staggered setup. If the amateur tire tech moved your rear tires to the front, it will definitely throw those lights.

 

This. Check this first. Then, pull codes and see if it's got cam sensor codes. If it does, replace with OEM from the dealer, not aftermarket from the parts store. Before modding, save up about $2k and stick it in your sock drawer for repairs. With 186k, now's the time you're gonna start seeing failures just do to wear. Things like water pumps, timing guides, differential bushings, front lower control arms, etc...

 

Yes that was one thing that I did check they didnt mess up. Fluid is just above minimum so ill top off. I'm going to try and get the codes read this weekend. I have not worked on my own car in years other than simple things so I'm a little out of touch with whats out there. Is the autozone reader any good? I have a bluetooth obd is there a app that is well regarded?

 

If you take it to an auto parts store, they can give you the codes. Then you can either look them up here or cross reference it with the codes from the FSM (which I have attached here).

The brake light coming on and off intermittently is generally a sign of low brake fluid. As previously mentioned, the VDC and SLIP lights will sometimes point to failing cam/crank sensors. If you have the rev-up, then you've got 4 of them. Don't cheap out and go with OEM replacements.

Other possibilities: brake pads, wheel speed sensor(s), abs sensor(s), etc. Best to pull the codes first. As far as BT apps, Torque used to be good but it can be a little temperamental depending on the OBD device.

What size are your tires?

 

-I have a feeling the brake light will be fluid. I'm just going to have it flushed lord knows when it was last done.
- Tires size is stock and staggered, i double checked they were put back on correctly.
One other thing is that it is the driver rear where the wheel stud was cross threaded. Could they have possibly broke something in that area when they were removing tire that would trigger the lights?
I'll get the codes and go from there.