I took apart the engine cover and replaced both the knock sensor and wiring harness, but the light is still on and resetting the code didn’t fix the problem. My issues started with a misfire, so I replaced all 6 spark plugs, which didn’t fix the problem. Then I replaced a broken coil, which did fix the problem, but shortly afterward I got code P0327 and the car won’t accelerate quickly and refuses to go over 60mph unless I’m going downhill. Could it maybe be the cable that connects to the knock sensor harness? Could it be another one of the 5 coil packs I didn’t replace?

 

Hey Joe, long time lurker but posting because I can't seem to find any information either. I seem to have the exact same issue, only code was p0327.

Replaced with OEM knock sensor, steel braided knock sensor harness (the rodent-proof Amazon harness), and while the plenum is out I replaced my valve covers, cam/crank position sensors, and ignition coils to fix a misfire which I presume is a separate issue.

Afterwards car runs amazing, p0000 no code after ECU reset and some hard driving and I assumed all was good. However a couple days later and a few more miles I checked for codes again and p0327 is back.

I am honestly stumped and don't know how to approach this. Car seems to have plenty of power, revs freely to redline, but the code is still there. Hoping to provide as much context as possible to see if someone else has had the same issue and if you had resolved it.

Cheers.

 

I feel you on this issue. I’ve replaced the knock sensor and pigtail harness from Amazon with the rodent proof kit. Codes remains. I then replaced the knock sensor again from import direct. Car drove amazing with the performance tune, hours later the knock sensor ode P0327 came back. I’m wondering if the steel braided harness is no good? I’m thinking for checking for continuity in the steel braided harness. I’m wondering if the steel braided harnesses is either no good or there’s another issue with the circuit. I’m going to find the problem eventually. Has ANYONE had a fix for this? If so let us all know lol. I’ll keep the thread updated as I find the fix.

 

So I think I finally figured out this problem, at least for the VQDE35. I recently purchased the Amazon rodent proof kit which came with the steel braided harness and a knock sensor. I’m not sure if those harness are garbage or what but here’s what I did that fixed my P0327 code and now my 350z is in correct tune. After realizing the Amazon knock sensor/harness wasn’t working correctly, I decided to go to oreillys to purchase an Import Direct knock sensor. I wanted to see if it was the knock sensor was bad that I had purchased off Amazon. When replacing the knock sensor I made sure to clean the engine block/knock sensor mounting surface with a brass brush because corrosion can cause a bad connection. After installing and test driving, I noticed that the code p0327 would intermittently clear and stay gone for minutes and then comeback. Before this recent repair, I would get an immediate p0327 pending DTC and then a permanent p0327 DTC. I knew it must of been a connection issue in the harness. I bought a generic knock sensor harness off amazon( not the rodent proof one) and I installed it. I also noticed that the way I had routed the rodent proof harness, the wires were sitting on my left (bank 1) engine block so they probably melted together causing a short to ground. The new harness I bought, I routed with the engine harness so the pigtail harness I was installing wouldn’t get got again and melt. I believe this was the true reason I was having the constant P0327 issue, it’s a heat protection issue. I dove 100 miles several different days and not Dtc’s found. My advice is to check for corrosion, and good knock sensor and check the routing of the knock sensor harness.