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Idle and reving issues.

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Old Apr 5, 2025 | 09:46 PM
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Orestis
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Default Idle and reving issues.

Hello everyone, I’d like some some input on an issue keep bugging me for 2 months now.
Well, the vehicle has some issues the idle. When I accelerate, first of all the car feels like is not pulling. On every change of gear there is a delay on dropping the revs down. And sometimes when I accelerate, while I release the clutch, it’s slightly unnecessarily reving up on each gear shift.
I cleaned the throttle body and I have tried the throttle body relearn couple of times. Recently after a throttle body relearn procedure, while I was reving up the car the service engine light was randomly blinking and disappearing for sometime.
Where should I start looking first? I know there might be different things to check related with the issues I’m describing.
if anyone has any information, I would be glad to see.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 10:28 PM
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isy_nismo
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Hello, I hade same issues with the blinking engine CELL light, I was reading that when it flashes or blink means a misfire, in my case I have change injectors, manifolds etc that is why I think mine will need a re-tune. In your case I don't know, I suppose If is me I start with a code reader to see what code the ECU is storing, if it is the famous P300 for misfire or if it is something else... I'm up for more info in this respect because as I mentioned I had a similar issue.
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Old Apr 7, 2025 | 06:16 PM
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Could be a lot of things. But first, get a scan done and look at active/stored or historical codes. That should at least help point in the right direction. Next, I would check for any unmetered air (aka vacuum leaks). If the engine is idling high, that's usually an indicator of rogue air entering the intake manifold after the MAF sensor. Since you cleaned the throttle body, you "might" need to do a Throttle Position memory clear and relearn. This is different from an idle air volume relearn. I've had to do this procedure on Hondas in the past, it may be the same for Nissan, I can't remember. I've cleaned by TB before, but I think I also used my bi-directional scanner immediately after as a precaution, to clear stored memory and force a throttle position relearn followed by an idle air volume relearn.

If a scan shows random misfires, then there are a number of causes that should be checked.
1) CAM/Crank sensors.
2) Coil Packs.
3) Injectors.
4) MAF sensor.
5) Oxygen Sensors (upstream)
6) Aftermarket modifications & installation error.

Other things that can cause poor running conditions (more rare), weak fuel pump, poor quality fuel, bad ECU, faulty wiring, timing chain is out of sync either due to excessive wear or installer error, ABS sensors, mismatched wheels/tire diameters between front and rear, head gasket issues, burnt or bent valves, VTC solenoid failures, and probably more (you get the idea).

Example story of modifications that can go wrong and cause more problems - Last weekend, I pulled a complete intake manifold off a 2006 350Z in a Pick-N-Pull. The previous owner had installed a plenum spacer on it, but they installed it with the center gallery plate gasket on top of said plate and not under it (should've been between gallery plate and lower plenum). Not only did this destroy the MLS gasket, but this would have introduced small air leaks! Also one of the upper plenum bolt spacers was missing (should be 6, only found 5). Poor workmanship was in evidence all around that Z before it wound up in the parts yard.

One last thing to consider. If you're running test pipes, you really should get a tune done for the car to run right. When it comes to sensors, replace with OEM. Don't go aftermarket and don't trust Ebay and Amazon (If it's too good to be true, IT IS), buy from a reputable parts seller. For sensors, I prefer online Nissan Dealers even if I can source the same Hitachi or Bosch P/Ns on RockAuto.

Let us know what a scan reveals.
Cheers!
-Icer

Last edited by icer5160; Apr 7, 2025 at 06:19 PM.
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