EDIT: THREAD TITLE CHANGED FROM:

Help me find tow hooks from other cars???

TO:

NEW CUSTOM REAR TOW HOOK POINT - in order to be a good search tool since the tow hook ended up being a custom install.



Hi guys,

was wondering if anyone can help me locate a factory tow hook off of any car really that would work for rear tie down points when towing.

See, I want to use a spacer and longer bolt, along with welding...

I want a tow hook mounted to the rear pin stay. (I have a single exhaust and bumper tuck so its easy access). Then i can tie down the rear of the Z in an X pattern and call it good. I chauk the car as well, so this should work just fine...

This is the rear pin stay:



For example, this is the tow hook off a toyota tundra, older model:


forget where this one came from:

like this, with out the silver loop:


please look under your 2nd cars, wifes car, moms suv, co workers civic...LOL...
Im going out to my work parking lot during break to check out all the cars i can.

if not, im gonna go to the old school junk yard where you pay entry fee and get to hang out all day.......i plan on climbing under all types of old cars and seeing what i can find that may work???
-J

 

I found these just now???


http://www.liftingsafety.co.uk/produ...oint-2969.html

 

I know you'll think I'm kidding, but I once had a local blacksmith make me a custom bracket/hook for one of my Alfa Spider's. Low cost, and great work.

 

^ i believe it........ive considered just buying a hitch ring from curt manufacturing and welding it all to hell with a hardened steel washer to also bolt it on as well.......

might end up doing that..

-J

 

Jason, i really don't think the point you want to install them on is really that strong. Just use one of those locking U hooks installed on the outside seam hook.

 

Just use "thru-the-wheel" tie-down straps...much easier!!!

That is if you have wheels with larger enough openings to slide the straps thru...

 

yeah, i have considered making a RH hook and moving the evap canister....I think it will be a okay spot as the car is in gear, parking brake up, wheels chualked and the straps to hold her down.

I do that now, but I want to refrain from doing that and have an easier option to hook up too....

If i find a OEM factory hook off of whatever car i find at the junk yard then it will be cheap bolt on operation that i will also weld for added measure OR I will buy a hitch ring and weld as mentioned above with a bolt also.

FRONT:
The front of the car, i use the oem transport hook holes under the car...

Im looking to add chain and hook and go through the floor of my trailer and connect to a steel cross beam that just happens to be right under and fwd of that point......so loading and unloading will be ON THE FLY!

HERE:




-J

 

http://www.awdirect.com/tuff-edge-xt...traps-and-acc/

 

^ ya,i have Sline units just like that....

wanna get away from that..
-J

 

I just wrap mine around the rear LCA inner mount and pull cross-ways so the load goes into the mount, not the LCA. I use the factory tie down points in front.

 

where now? the toe arm(spring bucket) or camber arm? pulling cross ways to catch the subframe?? that means the subframe bushings are being pulled...????

I'm choosing to make this mounting point because its not part of the suspension, its a hard point to the body of the car just like the front tie down points are hard points to the car...

I may just create a passenger side rear tow hook similar to the drivers side one...as its mounted directly to the car body. then just relocate the evap canister...

-J

 

Sorry, toe link inner mount. The mount on the left in this picture:



I pull on that left mount across the car to the right rear tie down on my trailer. I also cross the front tie downs that go from the factory tie down points. No need to ratchet it down super tight, just tighten it, drive for a a few miles, and then check it.

 

I decided to get longer bolts and weld..........

I am going to weld these rings, plate with hole and a shaft (not shown) with a longer bolt:
2010-11-16223434.jpg?t=1290003059
Gotta cut the plate at the silver marker line shown....Also gonna have the pin stay welded all over as it currently just has a series of tack welds all over it. Gonna beef it up some..
Bolts will be 10.9 flanged hex head bolts.

FSM torque specs added:

OEM bolt at my suggested location is M10x1.25-25mm Nissan spec 10.9

With my added stack up, I will need an M10x1.25-70mm (strength 10.9) bolts at a minimum. Longer is okay as the hole in the Z is deep and there is room for a longer bolt.

-J

 

Pin stay removed, going to the welder today....

Some pics:
2010-11-17164803.jpg?t=1290114041
2010-11-17164814.jpg?t=1290114041
2010-11-17164822.jpg?t=1290114041
2010-11-17164831.jpg?t=1290114041
I plan to hack off the unused fwd facing portion of the loop.
I have an event this weekend, if not i would be dropping it off for powder coat, but that will just have to be later.

-J

 

Welded/Painted:
2010-11-18175942.jpg?t=1290171371
2010-11-19054912.jpg?t=1290171037
2010-11-19054843-1.jpg?t=1290171311
I plan to cut off the fwd facing unused loop...

-J

 

I know there was an event yesterday...get any pics of the goodness?

 

^ werd!

Finished and tested.....works great! Car is tied down at solid points front and rear, so the car doesn't bounce at all on the hwy while being trailered........no more cranking down on the rear subframe, tie'n around wheels, risk of pulling out alignment (if you have eccentric bolts), etc...

Mounted and painted:

fwd facing loop cut off:

Hooked and secure:




-J

 

^^^oh wow - you did end up cutting the other loop...dude that looks easier too...

Awesome work bud..

 

yes......cut the fwd loop........looked kinda silly there with it.

-J

 

Not to thread jack, but do you just have a solid diff mount? Or did you do trans/motor mounts as well? I know in some cars it is a no-no to just do one mount or the other. Is this true with the Z33? This is something I would like to do in the off-season.