all_bark

iTrader: (5)

I like that mount in the mirror!

great idea, real clean and professional...

350zluvr

Wow! I must say the install looks very clean and professional. Great Job man!

Alang

iTrader: (1)

So did you just scrape off the reflective backing on a section of the mirror so it would show through? Any issues with fitting the remote unit inside the mirror housing?

Great job, more details on how you got the remote display inside the mirror would be helpful.

BrickydZ

iTrader: (22)

Could you give us a play by play on the interior install to the mirror.?

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

I did scrape the reflective backing off the mirror so the display would show through. It took quite a bit of time to get the reflective backing and the black protective coating off the back of the mirror. I taped off the area around what I wanted to remove and very slowy (with a razor blade ) scraped off the coatings. I then used a large pencil type eraser to finish removing the reflective metal film coating.
I first disassembled the V1 remote display to find a place in the mirror it would fit. The display is way too big intact. Only the V1 display circuit board, lens, and lens cover would fit. I had to shorten the lens cover about a half inch. The part of the display lens cover that houses the mute button had to be removed.
I also had to do some cutting with a dremel inside the mirror to remove some of the plastic case bracing.
The mirror circuit board takes up most of the center section. The homelink circuit board takes up all the empty space on the left side of the mirror. There was only room to mount the V1 display on the right side. Once I found a suitable place for the V1 display, I worked on getting it mounted flush with the back of the glass. Then I marked the area on the mirror where the display should show through and started removing the coatings. I mounted a RJ11 telephone jack on the back side of the mirror case to plug the V1 cable into.
I don't have any pictures of the install because I didn't know if I would be able to use the mirror once it was done.
I plan to do another one before long and sell it on ebay. I'll take pictures of that one while I do it.

ssc

iTrader: (1)

very nice, man...i dont think i have the patience to do something like that...i would rather pay somebody to have it done

maserom

iTrader: (2)

Would you mind explaining how you installed the fuse box and direct wire adapter and what is needed.
Thanks. Great Job!

___DJK___

iTrader: (2)

brilliant!!!

nitrousoxidex

iTrader: (4)

Slick...

FurtureZOnwer

damn thats a pretty clean setup, btw... did you cut your finger while trying to hide them wires.

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

First, I found a place near the fuse box to mount the Direct Wire Adapter ( marked in yellow in the picture ). You can't see it in the picture because it's hidden by the adapter. But there is a 3/8 inch screw ( like the one marked in green in the picture ) about 3 inches above the fuse box that holds a metal bracket holding the cable harness to the side of the car.

I made an L shaped metal bracket ( see pic of similar below ) to mount to the car with the screw mentioned above and attached the Direct Wire Adapter to the end of the bracket with hot glue and a very small screw.
I attached the ground wire for the adapter to the car with the same screw I used to attach the bracket.

The 4th fuse slot in the top of the fuse box in my car was empty and has power on the bottom terminal of the slot when the ignition switch is in both the ACC and ON positions so I used it for power to the Direct Wire adapter.
Marked in pink is the fuse holder pluged into the fuse box.

I bought a fuse holder from Auto Zone that uses the same size fuses as the car and plugs into the fuse box. I think it was called "Add a Circuit" ( see pic below ) I connected the red wire from the V1 adapter to the fuse holder.

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

pic of bracket

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

pic of fuse holder.
This fuse holder will actually hold 2 fuses. One for the original circuit and one for a new circuit.
My car didn't have anything in this fuse slot in the fuse box so I'm only using the "new" circuit fuse.
You can barely see it in this picture. Sorry my camera won't focus that close.

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

it wouldn't be a proper install without a little blood.
I did it pulling off those #*@&!$ interior panels.

johnlotusboy

iTrader: (1)

How do you get inside the rearview mirror?
I want to mod the dimming circuit. My Nismo wing shadows the pickup eye, I might add a variable adjustment to the rear side of mirror.

daytona350

The rear window looks like a great place to mount your V1 but one question. When your driving does the main V1 until still light up with radar with the remote until hooked up? If so wouldn't this visible through your back window?

twinship

iTrader: (3)

What's next... a cure for cancer?

Seriously, nice work!

Reggi914

iTrader: (3)

wow, very very very impressed

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

The front (mirror side) snaps into the back ( windshield side ) of the mirror with small plastic tabs. I used a very small flathead screwdriver to gently pry the mirror apart. The facing around the mirror glass will completely come off the mirror leaving everything else intact inside the back part of the mirror case.
It's very easy to scratch/dent the mirror housing while prying it apart. There are several snap tabs around the perimeter of the mirror. The toughest ones to get "un-snapped" were the ones on the bottom between the homelink buttons.

SunsetZ33

iTrader: (11)

The Main V1 unit is completely dark when the Remote display is hooked up. Only the Remote Display illuminates.

You could mount the remote display somewhere out of view from other cars behind you to keep them from being able to see your detector warnings.