JL 1000.1 amp acting up. Help
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JL 1000.1 amp acting up. Help
Need some help on this one. JL 1000.1 amp wired to 2 10w7's, everything is wired correctly( I think) + to + and – to the negatives , 1st I turn on the radio and amp and the sub’s barley hit, so I turn it up and the amp goes into its protect mode .the amber light goes on, which shows that the low independence of speaker load. I take of the speaker wire’s and rca wires and its still in its protect mode, So how would I take it off protect mode and why is this happing? Thanks!
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Is it possible yo have blown one of your subs. Either that or you have the subs impedance set to low. Do you parallel the voice coils? The 1000/1 is only good to 1.5 ohms. If you have dual 4 ohm subs with the they are 2 ohms each. But the outputs of the amps are paralleled as well so that puts you at 1 ohm. Which is WAY to low. If it happens with everything disconnected you toasted a circuit and are going to need to send it into JL for repair.
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Originally posted by MIAPLAYA
Is it possible yo have blown one of your subs. Either that or you have the subs impedance set to low. Do you parallel the voice coils? The 1000/1 is only good to 1.5 ohms. If you have dual 4 ohm subs with the they are 2 ohms each. But the outputs of the amps are paralleled as well so that puts you at 1 ohm. Which is WAY to low. If it happens with everything disconnected you toasted a circuit and are going to need to send it into JL for repair.
Is it possible yo have blown one of your subs. Either that or you have the subs impedance set to low. Do you parallel the voice coils? The 1000/1 is only good to 1.5 ohms. If you have dual 4 ohm subs with the they are 2 ohms each. But the outputs of the amps are paralleled as well so that puts you at 1 ohm. Which is WAY to low. If it happens with everything disconnected you toasted a circuit and are going to need to send it into JL for repair.
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Originally posted by CopperZ
No i dident blow the sub... its brand new and it dident bumb. I did not actully hook them into the amp. My friend did. But now im not even sure how to wire them at all can you explaine how to wire them for a dummy? There is no way to take that protect mode off with out sending out the whole amp[? Also i am using 8ga wire not 4ga just to test the system, but it did not say low Volitge on the amp. So i guess thats not the problem.
No i dident blow the sub... its brand new and it dident bumb. I did not actully hook them into the amp. My friend did. But now im not even sure how to wire them at all can you explaine how to wire them for a dummy? There is no way to take that protect mode off with out sending out the whole amp[? Also i am using 8ga wire not 4ga just to test the system, but it did not say low Volitge on the amp. So i guess thats not the problem.
http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html
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Originally posted by MIAPLAYA
Oh btw with 2 10W7s...which have dual 3 ohm voice coils the best way would be to series the voice coils and parallel the speakers. This would give you a 3 ohm load at the amp.
Oh btw with 2 10W7s...which have dual 3 ohm voice coils the best way would be to series the voice coils and parallel the speakers. This would give you a 3 ohm load at the amp.
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Originally posted by CopperZ
So it would have to look like this?
So it would have to look like this?
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Originally posted by MIAPLAYA
No it should be wired like this...
As for your amp if you just bought it you need to take it back to wherever you bought it from and have them exchange it.
No it should be wired like this...
As for your amp if you just bought it you need to take it back to wherever you bought it from and have them exchange it.
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First off when you get that working you are going to be amazed at the bass. I have a 500/1 and a 10W7 and I couldn't image 2, wow.
Anyway, have you downloaded the owners manual, it can be found here scroll down to the bottom of the pageClick me read the entire manual
According to the manual:
"Thermal" (Red):lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safer operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier:
The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-powering operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
Also it plainly states in Bold letter only use a 4 gauge wire, I know you are testing but you should swap that out and test again.
Sounds like to me you have something hooked up wrong, I am not so convinced something is wrong with the amp. With that being said, are you positive this amp wasn't doing this before you bought it???
Also, before I sent $180 to JL I WOULD defenitly go to a local stereo shop and get a professional installer to look at it. Go to an authorized JL dealer, they will know th JL stuff better. It's going to be cheaper than $180 I promise.
Who is to say the problem is not in your wiring, so you pay $180 get the amp back and because of your faulty wiring it happens again?
Anyway, have you downloaded the owners manual, it can be found here scroll down to the bottom of the pageClick me read the entire manual
According to the manual:
"Thermal" (Red):lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safer operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier:
The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-powering operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
Also it plainly states in Bold letter only use a 4 gauge wire, I know you are testing but you should swap that out and test again.
Sounds like to me you have something hooked up wrong, I am not so convinced something is wrong with the amp. With that being said, are you positive this amp wasn't doing this before you bought it???
Also, before I sent $180 to JL I WOULD defenitly go to a local stereo shop and get a professional installer to look at it. Go to an authorized JL dealer, they will know th JL stuff better. It's going to be cheaper than $180 I promise.
Who is to say the problem is not in your wiring, so you pay $180 get the amp back and because of your faulty wiring it happens again?
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Originally posted by nissan_fanatic
First off when you get that working you are going to be amazed at the bass. I have a 500/1 and a 10W7 and I couldn't image 2, wow.
Anyway, have you downloaded the owners manual, it can be found here scroll down to the bottom of the pageClick me read the entire manual
According to the manual:
"Thermal" (Red):lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safer operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier:
The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-powering operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
Also it plainly states in Bold letter only use a 4 gauge wire, I know you are testing but you should swap that out and test again.
Sounds like to me you have something hooked up wrong, I am not so convinced something is wrong with the amp. With that being said, are you positive this amp wasn't doing this before you bought it???
Also, before I sent $180 to JL I WOULD defenitly go to a local stereo shop and get a professional installer to look at it. Go to an authorized JL dealer, they will know th JL stuff better. It's going to be cheaper than $180 I promise.
Who is to say the problem is not in your wiring, so you pay $180 get the amp back and because of your faulty wiring it happens again?
First off when you get that working you are going to be amazed at the bass. I have a 500/1 and a 10W7 and I couldn't image 2, wow.
Anyway, have you downloaded the owners manual, it can be found here scroll down to the bottom of the pageClick me read the entire manual
According to the manual:
"Thermal" (Red):lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safer operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier:
The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-powering operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
Also it plainly states in Bold letter only use a 4 gauge wire, I know you are testing but you should swap that out and test again.
Sounds like to me you have something hooked up wrong, I am not so convinced something is wrong with the amp. With that being said, are you positive this amp wasn't doing this before you bought it???
Also, before I sent $180 to JL I WOULD defenitly go to a local stereo shop and get a professional installer to look at it. Go to an authorized JL dealer, they will know th JL stuff better. It's going to be cheaper than $180 I promise.
Who is to say the problem is not in your wiring, so you pay $180 get the amp back and because of your faulty wiring it happens again?
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Originally posted by Ahsmo
I think you need to upgrade your power wire....the amp prob couldnt suck enough current. The power supply on those JL amps are a bit touchy
I think you need to upgrade your power wire....the amp prob couldnt suck enough current. The power supply on those JL amps are a bit touchy
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Im saying that when it didnt get enough current, voltage would have been just fine, it screwed the power supply up while you were asking it to produce the power it couldnt without the proper current.
Just a theory, Im not an EE by any means
Just a theory, Im not an EE by any means
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Originally posted by CopperZ
For sure i am going to test it with the 4 ga wire b4 sending it to JL ( i need the wire anyways) And i dont know if the amp was doing this before. But when they first hooked it up, the amp worked fine and stayed on. When i pulled out of the driveway and went down the road, i turned up the volume and then is when the amber light came on. Also the lights started dimming A LOT so i guess i need a cap. I thought i seen people with 350's running the same set up w/out a cap? Correct me if i am wrong please. I do have the manual. it does not have the wireing diagrams.
For sure i am going to test it with the 4 ga wire b4 sending it to JL ( i need the wire anyways) And i dont know if the amp was doing this before. But when they first hooked it up, the amp worked fine and stayed on. When i pulled out of the driveway and went down the road, i turned up the volume and then is when the amber light came on. Also the lights started dimming A LOT so i guess i need a cap. I thought i seen people with 350's running the same set up w/out a cap? Correct me if i am wrong please. I do have the manual. it does not have the wireing diagrams.
That's a big misconception about a cap, it doesn't help for your lights dimiing. The only thing to fix that is to beef up the alternator. A cap only provides extra power to the amp when it needs it, nothing to do with your head lights. Don't worry, a lot of people think caps help their diming lights but it doesn't.
Another option would be to add another battery and battery isolator and so on but that is pretty costly too.
I have 3 battteries with an isolator, i have no problems with dimming but you have twice the setup as i do but I promise you if I had a 1000/1 my lights would NOT dimm, not even close
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Originally posted by nissan_fanatic
I suggested the manual b/c it has detailed descirptions concering what each light on the amp means, that's all.
That's a big misconception about a cap, it doesn't help for your lights dimiing. The only thing to fix that is to beef up the alternator. A cap only provides extra power to the amp when it needs it, nothing to do with your head lights. Don't worry, a lot of people think caps help their diming lights but it doesn't.
Another option would be to add another battery and battery isolator and so on but that is pretty costly too.
I have 3 battteries with an isolator, i have no problems with dimming but you have twice the setup as i do but I promise you if I had a 1000/1 my lights would NOT dimm, not even close
I suggested the manual b/c it has detailed descirptions concering what each light on the amp means, that's all.
That's a big misconception about a cap, it doesn't help for your lights dimiing. The only thing to fix that is to beef up the alternator. A cap only provides extra power to the amp when it needs it, nothing to do with your head lights. Don't worry, a lot of people think caps help their diming lights but it doesn't.
Another option would be to add another battery and battery isolator and so on but that is pretty costly too.
I have 3 battteries with an isolator, i have no problems with dimming but you have twice the setup as i do but I promise you if I had a 1000/1 my lights would NOT dimm, not even close
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Originally posted by CopperZ
Where would i put another battery? Can i use one of those little jet ski or boat batterys they are smaller in size.
Where would i put another battery? Can i use one of those little jet ski or boat batterys they are smaller in size.